Why do I not ever see window awnings on slideouts in the early 2000 models? Is there a structural issue with adding them?
(https://i.imgur.com/4XU7kBR.png)
2003 all except 270 had them. Research on Foretravel website
FORETRAVEL (http://foretravel.com/information)
Other years earlier not listed
You can pull the slide awning out more to shield your windows
The slide out awning also pulls out father to be window awning. They are shown in your photo, just not deployed
Scott
Ha, that makes perfect sense now that you point it out! How cool. I'm very much looking forward to not having to pack reflectix in the windows the minute the sun pops out.
Thanks guys
I did look at one 2007 coach that only had the one large awning on curb side. So they do exist without.
Scott
Some owners actually prefer the "cleaner" look of a coach without window awnings. Some Forum members have totally removed the factory awnings in conjunction with having the coach painted. Some people seldom use the window awnings, for whatever reason.
There are other ways, besides Reflectix, to deal with too much sunlight coming in the windows. Dark tinted glass, either OEM or by applying film, can make a big difference. There are several types of interior window shades that include sun blocking components.
Our old '93 model coach came from the factory with a full set of window and patio awnings, which we seldom use. It also came with two different window shade systems. It has the Day/Night fabric accordion shades that are moved up and down by the drawstring. In addition, our coach is fitted with original room darkening vinyl roller shades that are extremely effective at blocking the sun. On top of that, one of the prior owners had all the side windows darkly tinted with a high quality interior film.
We keep the vinyl roller shades down 24/7 whenever we are not in the coach. Besides blocking the sun, they also do a great job at blocking heat transfer through the window glass and helping to maintain the desired temperature inside the coach. This is particularly important when you have (as we do) single pane windows.
Anyway, the point is, Different Strokes For Different Folks.
Our coach is one of the few that came from the factory with no window awnings. We don't miss them and like Chuck said I prefer the cleaner look. Mainly use the coach where the warmth of the Morning Sun is welcome. Positioning the coach where the afternoon Sun hits the passenger side with the main awning shades most of the coach to keep cool and keeps the solar heat off the refrigerator side.
The coach without the awnings does look great. We currently find ourselves (in our 5th wheel) relying heavily on reflectix to keep heat out. My laser thermometer read 140 degrees on the inside of the window one afternoon without it :headwall: . Even with the AC blasting, it's impossible to keep up with those temps so awnings will be a very welcome addition. Before you guys pointed how the slide awning works, I had every intention of adding more awnings to those windows immediately.
The slide toppers also pull down to be window awnings. If you look center of the slide below the window, you'll see a little hook. If you unlatch the arm locks and use the hook to grab the strap in the middle of the topper, it pulls down to be a window awning across the entire slide. So all of those coaches you pictured have awnings, the toppers just aren't pulled down in the pictures.
BTW, you need to be careful with the arm locks - you do not want them closed and accidentally roll up the awning too fast, or it can bend the lock AND the arm. Easy does it.
There were additional awnings that were optional for the non slide windows. We had 5, I believe, all Zip Dee.
Last year I had installed on the Suburban windshield the new ceramic clear window tint to stop 99% of the UV. Works great and I notice very little difference at night. I will have to learn how to install so I can do my coach glass. Everywhere! I am very happy with the result
Scott
If the sun is shining directly on a side window with aluminum faced bubble wrap (or any reflective material) on the inside the glass will get incredibly HOT!! I think it might even be hot enough to fry eggs, if you can get them to stay put on a vertical surface.
I touched our bedroom window immediately after removing my aluminum faced insulation and came close to getting an intense and deep burn.
Scott the tint should be on the outside of the window. With single pane it doesn't mater but with dual pane windows the air between
the pane get too hot. The ceramic coating does sound interesting. I would like to know more about that.
We love our awnings and use them almost every time we camp. I like to be able to leave all the window treatments up during the day to have an unobstructed view outside. As long as it is darker inside than outside, no one can see inside.
This is one of the reasons we love our Foretravel so much! There is so much glass and such a great view at all of our camp sites.
I will agree, but I does work. I doubt our glass is LowE also. That too would work. On the front fishbowl windows I'm sure it is a big improvement as it was on my suburban.
Ceramic IR Window Tint | Interwest Automotive Films (https://interwestautofilms.com/product/ceramic-ir-window-tint/?gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UQjAnIP6cJJgP0fHboF9ncVJEO29pCh7CEvzc3TXukgJ2jjuZPmkWhoC5AgQAvD_BwE)
SPF 1000 crazy
UV PROTECTION
Ceramic IR blocks up to 99% of harmful ultraviolet (UV) light to provide a total Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of up to 1000 for you and your passengers
We have that clear IR tint on the inside of our windshield. It was applied by the prior owner. He told me it greatly reduced the heat buildup in the driver compartment when driving directly into the afternoon sun. Since I have never driven without it, I take his word for it.
Only downside I have noticed is that if I wear polarized sun glasses I see "rainbow" color flashes looking through the windshield. I solved that problem by getting a pair of prescription non-polarized sun glasses last time we went in for eye checkups.
Are the windshields double pane or just the rest of the windows?
My understanding is darker tints are the ones that cause problems with double pane windows, but a clear or nearly clear one that reflect UV and perhaps a low e coating sounds like a good idea....especially for the windshield if it is not double pane. I could see it making a big difference.
Windshields are single pane so I want to find out more about this film. Got a lot of time till next summer.
I had a 14 inch band of mirror limousine tint applied across the top of my windshield, that has been very effective. With the slope of the GV windshield it stops a lot of the heat and glare.
Low E tint? The low E is the low iron content in the glass reducing heat conducting thrust he glass itself
The Ceramic tint works on the single pane well. It's kinda pricey but is neat stuff in the desert. In the suburban it's a year old and looks great.works great,
Scott
You can leave your windows wide open in the rain. The single greatest advantage of window awnings. Everything else is moot.
Woody.
Scott, I was referring to the low emissivity coating applied to glass which reflect select wave lengths of light generally to keep heat in or out. I do not know if it is available as a film, but was just pondering it might help keep control heat gain/loss especially on the windshield. The ceramic film sounds interesting and something to consider.
Low e coating (https://www.jeld-wen.com/en-us/discover/reference/clearing-up-low-e-confusion)
"Low-E, meaning "low emissivity," is an extremely thin layer of metallic particles, or more commonly, several layers, applied to the glass that, in simple terms, allows the glass to act like a sieve. Long wavelengths, or heat, are filtered out, while short wavelengths (the visible light spectrum) are allowed to pass through. However, today Low-E is is much more than that. By changing the types of materials used in the "stack" or layers of Low-E, or by increasing or decreasing the number of layers, we can now get more specific in choosing glass that will meet our exact project needs. Need high visible light but low U-values? There's a Low-E for that. Need greater protection from fading? There's a Low-E for that....."