I'm replacing my original alternator with the exact same Leece Neville. Doesn't it need to be adjusted on output? 1996, 8.3 Cummins
Keep the old one for a spare and carry it with you.
If you have a diode based OEM style isolator they consume about 0.7 volts through the diodes. The OEM LN alternators had output voltage increased to compensate for the loss to keep voltage at the batteries about 13.8v. Those adjustments and final output depend a bit on battery type and your situation.
I'm keeping the old one as a spare, since these are not stocked. I assume I could run the genny to get home if you lose the alternator
Yes, just turn on boost and continue on. In fact I just had someone burn up an alternator and had to drive in from N. Dakota like that. I plan on doing a show & tell when when I have time to get it rebuilt as several have ask.
Mike
If someone wants a functioning, adjustable voltage 160 amp LN alternator that was in my 2001 U320 let me know. I kept it as a spare but I would rather see it in use than sitting on a shelf.
Update
It is off to a new home, better there than on my shelf.
Thanks
Yes.* Does not? It do. Your solid state battery isolator has a 0.7V voltage drop across the diode.
Art
*Unless you have a voltage sense wire.
I'll take it if it's free and you have a commercial shipping account. It's a heavy devil. I got rid of our dash AC and am going install a second alternator where the compressor was. No more isolator and will replace the existing boost solenoid with a latching model.. C/H 24200 Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24200 Latching Solenoid: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24200-Latching-Solenoid/dp/B001FQMZQU)
Pierce
IF this truly is a DUVAC alternator, there is a SENSE WIRE/TERMINAL that is on the chassis battery side of the battery isolator. This automatically compensates for the voltage loss in the diode-based battery isolator.
So, alternator is told by the sense wire/terminal to put out enough voltage such that subtracting the loss across the diode-based isolator results in exactly the correct voltage to the battery. May some small adjustment need to be made to conform with a particular brand/technology of battery-- certainly. But the loss across the diode-based isolator is already taken into account.
Yes, it is a DUVAC
The aternator can be easily coverted to DUVAC. See this page for modifications: Technical Services (https://www.prestolite.com/pgs_support/duvac.php?pf=true)
Pierce
What is DUVAC? What good is it?
This is my LN and it has the same tag.
Pat,
To find the answer to this question, read this thread from the first post, and read the thread linked below.
What is DUVAC? (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33250.0)
The important thing about a DUVAC alternator is that it has an external SENSE wire that senses voltage on the on the chassis battery side of the diode-based isolator. This is important, as correct voltage "downstream" of the isolator is what matters.
Pat,
With pic. yours is set as a DUVAC looks like it could be OEM even.
Mike