The morning after we arrived at our destination, the drivers side front tire was almost sitting on the rim. So I aired it up to 104 psi and started checking tire pressure every 15 minutes, then 30 minutes, etc. It remained at 104 psi. Then at 2pm (warming up outside) it was 106 psi.
This morning it is 106 and holding. Any thoughts? (and TPMS recomendations :D )
Ed
Thoughts? Driving on a tire that low for any significant distance most assuredly caused internal damage to the tire. Did you drive on it that way or did it lose air overnight?
We had that happen years ago. Tire was at 95 pounds for over a month on the road - checked several times a week. One morning it was down to around 50-60 pounds. I reinflated it, and checked it daily for a week, and it did not change.
I figured it was night-time pranksters.
Matt B
So I can't imagine driving without a TPMS Anymore. I consider it my spare tire. I ended up with the TST and am very pleased.
S Amazon.com: TRUCK SYSTEM TECHNOLOGIES TST507RV6C 507 Tpms W/6 Cap Sensors:... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078P5GG76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Also are you using quality metal valve caps. Very likely you induced your own leak. Two piece valve caps securely seal your stems in case valve core leaks.
MS20813-1B High Pressure Aircraft Schrader Dill Valve Caps Race Sprint (6) |... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/MS20813-1B-High-Pressure-Aircraft-Schrader-Dill-Valve-Caps-Race-Sprint-6/331805600366?hash=item4d4127aa6e:g:9E0AAOSwE99W6xJk)
If you get TPMS caps you don't need the other
IMO Scott
Several tire manufacturers recommend replacing the tire if it has gone completely flat on the rim. Only you know how flat it was.
Pierce
If you had checked the pressure before your drive, the valve core may have been leaking and re-airing it freed it up. But as posted above the tire at least should be broke down and inspected if it was run too low.
thanks Pierce, I'm aware.
The DOT code is (3113) on the Michelins. Looking at the Toyo's and Continentals to replace all the tires. Members seem to like both. The $500 bucks I'll save just went to purchasing the TST 507.
I found he same situation on arriving in a campground, except an inner dual. Wasn't completely flat so I clipped on my air chuck running off coach air and went about my business. A few minutes later I heard the overload valve on air compressor release and remembered the tire....then I heard what sounded like God's own shotgun as the tire exploded.
After cleaning apparel well shucks, ruined that tire I'm thinking. Later it was pointed out to me that it was actually a lucky accident, the tire should be able to take far more psi than the 120 the unloader is set at. I'd be real cautious about returning a front to service after being run low. Shoot I'd be real cautious about airing it up.
Get's yer attention, don't it. Even brand new tires can explode. This is why most tire shops put the wheel/tire in a safety cage when they first air them up to set the tire bead on the wheel. I heard one explode at a Discount Tire shop when I was sitting in the waiting room. A couple of the 'Nam era vets waiting with me hit the deck when the tire let go. Not something I want to witness up close.
143 deaths, approx. One each month.
Injuries from tire and wheel explosions during servicing - PubMed (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1854067/)
Jack,
The way it's written makes it sound as if the single-piece rims were somehow responsible for the increase.
Fatal injuries involving single-piece rim wheels increased during the 1980s as multipiece rim wheels were phased out by the trucking industry. I remember an accident at one of the big FBO aircraft hangers in Santa Barbara back in the 1970's. A worker was inflating a tire on a split rim when it let go. The secretary looked up and saw the fellow stand up but without his head. Never liked split rims after that.
Pierce
Sounds like a good reason to get a clip on chuck with a long enough hose. At least it would work for the outers and wouldn't have to be crouched down right next to the tire. If an inner lets go the outer would protect you (other than your hearing). Actually I have a screw on chuck that came with my Viair compressor but the hose is too short to get out of the way and hold the trigger.
Actually laughed out loud. Nothing has ever described a tire blowing better.
For years I blew tires on a old F350 dump bed overloading it and tearing cords driving over rocks in the driveway. Hauled out several hundred tons of rock out of basement when building. Michelin lasted the longest? Trailer tires coming in second. Twenty foot service hose for me. My tire gauge goes in air hose at source. Have been around too many High speed aviation Blow outs costing millions. 160mph, 200 psi, 400lbs spinning. Glad no one ever got hurt or worse. Too much to loose IMO
Scott
Michelin considers a tire flat is it loses 20% of its normal inflation pressure. So at 80 psi a tire normally inflated to 100 psi is flat. If it is sitting on the rim it should get replaced.
Looking at it from the other direction a $700 tire will do way more that $700 worth of repairs and still need a $700 tire. Too cheap to replace.
Scott
Roger, I don't doubt that you read that from a Michelin pamphlet or web page. But, I dare say that sounds more like a lawyerly inspired sales pitch disguised as a safety recommendation than a real safety concern.
I once called Michelin's US HQ where I spoke to the Factory Tech department about the really rough ride of my semi. Michelin recommended that given the gross weight I ran. That I reduce the normally inflated 110PSI tires down to 70-75PSI. And that's how I ran them for years. Michelin didn't consider them flat.
To summarize, I had run those drive tires for about 100,000 miles at 110PSI before deflating them at Michelin's recommendation down to 70-75PSI and ran them for another 150,000 miles. Zero tire issues.
Bigdog, As you know, Michelin and other mfgs publish either booklets or on the web, inflation pressure for each specific tire at a certain weight load. I imagine that this is the 80% reference of Rogers, not just 75 or 80 lbs, but 80% of the recommended air pressure for the specific weight.
I speculate that the Michelin tech department reccomended the 70-75 lbs to you as it was what was recommended in their chart, given your load on the front axle. If not, yes, the tech department would have had issues with the legal department.
I at one time owned a tire shop and sold Michelin. They treated their Air Pressure Guide like a religious book. Now rv mfgs recommend the max inflation pressure that is on the sidewall, to prevent lawsuits, and user error on the part of the rv owner under inflating the tire. The rv will usually ride and steer like cra_. More than once a customer would not buy a $400,000 rv because of the way it rode and steered. I'd go to a scale and lower the air pressure to the recommended pressure for the weight. They were amazed at the difference, often down to 75-80 lbs. Best ride and steering is with pressure set to proper amt for load.
BD, if you were running tires at significntly over the recommended pressure for the weight probably the worst that would happen is a hard ride and unusual wear in the center of the tread. So they suggested you lower pressure to what was required for the measured weight. That is what everyone should do, weigh each corner, set tire pressures based on the maximim weight on one aide or the other (plus 5 psi for the extra fruit cake or two).
Then as Michelin says, 20% below that (recommended psi for the load) is considered flat. The tire sidewalls will flex more, tread squirms, heat builds up, cords and tire structure gets damaged and the tire blows.
We watched Xtreme do a $75K repair of a FT due to a right front tire failure and the resulting guard rail and ditch encounter. And 3+ months to do it. Stuff happens. Don't let it be your fault.
Yes, that would be the worst. We don't full time so the coach is probably a little light but never check the weight. At 110 psi all around, we don't get a hard ride and in 60K miles, no tire wear anywhere. but the sidewalls are showing their age so will be replacing them before the next trip.
Scott, instead of worrying about $700 for a tire, good tires are available for $200 so no concerns about possible damage and no empty wallet. https://www.ustireoutlet.com/detail/greenmax-gsh100-285-75r-24-5/
Pierce
Hey Roger, Explained that way it makes sense.👍
[split a bunch of off-topic posts and moved them to Fire Ring - Michelle]
Personally I did install cheap affordable tires. Toyo 177 H rated. $2400 down in Arkansas . Five years for 1200$ seems okay to me.
Point being regardless of what you want to pay or run your always going to pay more for damage than you would for a replacement tire and body damage, or worse. Seems TPMS is a cheap spare. Won't completely prevent a failure, but likely will present the problem before it is one. I drive entirely too far and cover more miles that I would recommend, but that was the purpose of our coach. I look forward to three hour driving days, but we're not there yet. I really hope the 4300 mile weeks are gone forever, Probably 10 more years of 2100 mile weeks. but if that is what is needed our coach tires are ready to roll. DWMYH