Our 03' 38ft u320 has a bedroom slide, with the bed itself on the slide. The other night we were asleep and were awoken with a LOUD bang, that shook the whole bed. Wife thought a coconut had landed on our roof, but that was impossible and we couldn't see any damage anyway. Weird!
A few days later we moved our coach and the slide went too far in. Well, after a little inspection under the bed, you guessed it, the slide glide stop bolts are sheared off. I'm guessing that was what woke us up. Just in the middle of the night like that, the bolts gave out.
Anyway, barring any other damage from over extending our slide, it looks like a simple fix. The problem is though, extracting the old bolts that sheared off.
Do you think I can just drill a small hole in the top of the bolts and try a screw extractor, on a drill? I'm thinking those bolts might be pretty jammed in there and someone may have to weld a nut on it to extract it? What do you guys think? Give it a go with the screw extractor? Anyone have the specs for the bolts? The stock ones are supposedly grade 5 and I want to order some grade 8 bolts.
Also the slide stop switch bracket is bent. It looks like I can just bend it back, or should I replace it?
Try an easy out first then if that doesn't work weld a flat washer larger than the bolt then weld a nut to the washer.
Best practices are first to ping with a center punch, then drill a hole with a small left hand bit with your drill on reverse, this will help with loosening. Then larger bit so you can get an EZ out in it. Spraying wit PB Blaster or other penetrating oil with help.
Thanks guys, I have ordered the above mentioned tools and will let you know how it goes when everything arrives.
We are also in contact with HWH on the bolt replacement/specs.
The left hand git is the cats meow for removing bolts that aren't galled
Chris
Take your time. Figure were the center of the bolt is pilot hole and quality extractor. Left hand drill bits are really nice. Generally on second size larger bit it pulls the bolt out. Slow speed and cutting oil always good practice in steel. I'm not going to recommend welding inside coach with so many other good options. Don't break the easy out in the hole. They are A real pain to drill out.
Scott
If the above fails to remove the screws, you can drill the hole to the tap drill size and use a tap to clear the threads. The drilled hole MUST be very close to true center for this to work well, and that assumes the parent material is steel. If all else fails, another option would be to install thread inserts. I prefer Helicoil. helicoil,helicoil insert,helicoil inserts,heli-coil,helicoil kit,helicoil... (http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm)
Greg
Ours weren't very tight. Seems like my son-in-law cut a groove with a dremmel and backed them out with a flat blade screwdriver.
Those need changed annually I guess.
It's appropriate that help and advise be given to remove the broken bolts. But what is causing the bolts to shear like that. There must be some force or pressure that is exerted on the bolts to cause them to shear. Would it be the material they are made from or possibly some weight or applied force that is not supposed to be exerting on them?
Just read an interesting tip for extracting a broken bolt if it has loctite on it. After you drill the hole insert a soldering iron tip in the hole in the bolt and after an hour or two pull it out and immediately apply beeswax to the hot bolt. Apparently beeswax and heat breaks down or melts the loctite. Then use a hot Ezy out. If the Ezy out is cold it'll suck the heat from the bolt and the loctite will harden again. I hope I remember that tip next time I need to remove a bolt with loctite.
I knew about heat in fact if green locktite has been used that's the only way to get a good bolt out. Beeswax is new to me and
heating the ezy put makes sense.
New bolts are in and everything appears to be working fine. The extraction went well, just as some suggested, it backed out with the reverse threaded drill bits. Didn't even need the Ez out.
BTW the bolts were 3/8-16X1.750 (grade 8), purchased from a local hardware store.
Thank for the help guys!
I could be wrong, but from what I can figure, the glide block is forced up against the slide stop causing the hydraulic cylinder to stall.
That's what is applying a shear force on the bolts, every time you move the slide.
I just had the same issue. Bedroom slide stop bolts sheared. However mine sheared as I was extending the slide causing some damage to the cabinetry surrounding the bed. Luckily I was able to stop it before to much damage.
The bolt were easily removed on mine, as I was drilling them out to use an ease out the bit grabbed the bolts and just screwed them out the bottom of the bracket.
I called HWH and they explained the way the system works is the slide operates until that stop plate hits the adjustable bolt stops. The pump keeps going until it build up 3000 PSI and then shuts down. That is the reason to hold the extend or retract switches until the light goes out. So there is a lot of pressure that is built up on those stops every time the slide is operated.
Looking at mine the aluminum bracket that hold the bolt for the adjustable stop had bent slightly so there was upward pressure on the stop plate. I was able to get the bracket lined up correctly so the adjustable stop is not pushing upward on the plate. I suspect that was the reason for the shear, and hope it does not happen again.
Safe travels.
Thank you for sharing your experience and explaining how it all works. This may very well help others on this forum.
Richard
JNeel explained it very well . The 3000PSI switch can and will fail so the pump will not shut off . You will not get your normal light off. So we have put replacing the bolts on the bracket as a normal wear item on our list to change out , just to be on the safe side.
Depending upon how much pressure is actually required to get the job done, including operating the LR slide, it might be possible to replace the pressure switch with one of a lower rating, (2000, 2500 PSI?) This would reduce the load on all components. One way to determine the lowest pressure required would be to install a tee and gauge at the pressure switch port. Operate the slide(s) and note the highest pressure before stalling on any of the stops/limits of travel. Add 10% and replace the pressure switch with the lowest rated one at, or above, that pressure.
Greg