Hello everyone.
I was reading an earlier post which mentioned the latest 12v RV refrigerators. I want to replace my traditional Dometic in the near future. Has anyone done any research, or seen one of these in action?
Here are a couple of examples.
-Dometic DMC4101
-Norcold POLAR N10DC
I have many projects which I have to prepare for and would like to learn as much about each to help establish my priorities before getting underway.
I will be replacing my nearly dead coach batteries soon. I intend on using three to four BB Lithiums initially as the short term replacement- on my way to six total batteries.. Then add a small portion of my long term solar panel installation.
Any thoughts on the refrigerators? I was considering the Amish rebuild but the 12v refrigerators are intriguing as the solar/battery power solutions seem to be more practical as the technology continues to improve.
Thank you for any comments.
-FT
If you can make Quartzite Dometec has a big booth with models in action,Also check out JC refrigeration in Shipshawana Indiana,
they sell and do conversions.
I'm using 3 BattleBorns and I'd say it is adequate if you still have a propane fridge. We tend to use 120-150 amp hours for 24 hours so have a fair amount of reserve. I could probably get by with just 2. If I ever go to a domestic fridge I'll add at least 1 more BB. But our boon docking is only for an overnight when the weather is nice (don't need A/C) while traveling or a few days like at Quartzsite.
Have you seen how the amp draw for 12 volt fridge compares to 120volt domestic?
When I was looking for a frig I would have liked to have gotten a 12 volt frig but I couldn't find any thing in the size I wanted.
The Dometic Frig only advertises a left opening doors, which doesn't make sense. The Norco is a reversible doors. Dometic
specs say 15 amps but as they a variable speed compressor so I don't know what that means. My Frigidaire uses 11 amps 12 volts DC.
I have a 12 fridge that I installed a year ago March and have good luck with it. They cost about the 1200 bucks. Amp draw is 9 amps at start up and settles in at 2amps.
Look up Ever Chill 12 volt rv refrigerator.
Couple pictures
Thanks for the feedback.
I did find that the Dometic does offer left or right door swing. It appears you have to specify one or the other while the Norcold is interchangeable.
I was looking at the Everchill also. Furrion is also offering a 12v model.
My first thought was since I currently have a Dometic that replacing it with the same brand would more likely ensure a good fit in the cabinetry.
-FT
Looks good Andy.
Does that freezer stay cold? That is supposed to be one of the benefits compared to the evaporator type.
Thanks.
-FT
Yes the freezer works as good as our freezer at home, we had a norcold and the fit was perfect.
That looks great!!
Another question. What is your battery setup?
-FT
We have 4 225 amp hr interstate golf cart batteries and 500 watts of solar on the roof.
Thank you Andy. Really good info.
Best to you guys.
-FT
GE makes a 12V fridge for RVs. Says it uses 3.93AH/day. Does anyone believe this?
Rich
No, it makes no sense. All the data I have seen on residentials, 12v conversions, 120v conversions and apt sized refrigerators come in at 60-70 watts per hour, more if you make ice. That is about 1600 watts per day. Size doesn't make much difference on power consumed, a bigger residential is usually better insulated and more efficient. 1600 watts per day at 12.6 volts is 127 amp hrs.
3.93 amps per hour is low. But it is still 1200 watts. The amount of energy it takes to cool a certain volume from one temperature to another is about the same no matter how you do it. Efficiencies, insulation, how often you open the door and so on all increase the power required. No free lunch here.
I have a pair of engel fridge-freezers that use the sawafuji swing compressor. Extremely quiet and efficient. They live on the floor along the wall. I stopped using my ammonia fridge due to fire concerns when I leave my dogs inside alone, and got these as a temporary solution until I did the JC conversion. Never made it that way and these have kind of become permanent. They also work great for car roadtrips, boat, etc. i still plan on a JC conversion or maybe the everchill, but for the forseeable future, these work great for my needs.
Are those 6 volt batteries?
yes
About six years ago I replaced my refrigerator with a custom same dimensions two compressor unit by SeaFreeze. Each compressor takes 4 Amps at 12 volts while running. I have no idea of the duty cycle.
Tom I had wondered about a custom 12 volt frig. How expensive are they.
Tom, did you ever add a power meter to measure imcoming power to the refrig/freezer that shows watt hrs over time? This gives you an accurate measure of power consumed over time independent of duty cycle, amps and battery voltage.
Something like this one...
Battery Monitor, DROK Voltage Meter Ammeter DC 0-300V 200A STN Digital LCD... (https://amazon.com/DROK-Display-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B07B4CWKRJ/ref=pd_di_sccai_2?pd_rd_w=kmZ4r&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=QZ2T298G97B7XQTE6N58&pd_rd_r=3af55178-5622-457d-a8f0-7a6971ae476f&pd_rd_wg=Q2Fm5&pd_rd_i=B07B4CWKRJ&psc=1)
I also have a seafreeze marine fridge/freezer. Uses a BD50 compressor, both 120V and 12 V. Don't know what the actual power use us but it's a good unit but expensive. Door gasket can be a issue. My compressor is remotely mounted.
Mine was around $3000, but insurance paid for it.
That's still on my to do list.
I agree. I added a second door gasket and it now seals well.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-2-cu-ft-bottom-freezer-refrigerator-black/6220705.p?skuId=6220705
Low amp 120V unit .
Measured amps @.91 wither the amp clamp . Measured with the killa watt@ .89 amp.
About 82 watts running right now .
Volts reads 113. Same as the bus meter.
Looks pretty frugal and my yellow tag says 45$ per year .
I still dont quite understand how this can be ice cold and use 100watts or less.
Edit ; I opened the door and the amp meter shows the light @ .015 or so (LED light.)
The compressor does not run with the door open. Let the cooler warm up a few seconds. Close the door. The fridge must have some sort of smart box where it waits a couple of minutes to start the compressor . Compressor starts and the amps go to .90+-3. Watts to 83 +-. It does run maybe 20 minutes or more . Never shows more than .85 watts. often .79. Goes to 0 when compressor stops.
It sure gets a lot of BTU from very little power. My 2 8D should run it for over 12 hrs.
I added a second alternator, ( GM 1 wire 105 amp ) in place of the ac compressor . The new PSW inverter should be here today or thurs.
Hook up your Kill-a-Watt meter and report total watts after a week and divide by the number of hours to get watts average watts per hour. It is the only way to get a real world number that includes everyday use and some day to day variances. My Samsung 19 cu ft French Door residential uses about 65 watts per hour measured over a month. It is more in the summer. Depends on temperature settings. And it depends on whether the side and roof vents are open. Lots of variables. If you are getting the 120v from your inverter you have to include power to have the inverter to be on and inverter efficiency losses.
I agree with Roger's previous reply. I have used the Kill-A-Watt meter to measure power draw as well as confirm readings from my "Currant Bluetooth Power Monitor" and my similar Samsung usage and reading below.
I was an early adopter of the "Currant" model and was happy with that company's support and updated product they supplied to me, they now sell.
I see Amazon is currently out of stock. I would call the the Currant manufacturer first before ordering directly from them.
WiFi Smart Outlet | Currant (https://www.currant.com/products/wifi-smart-outlet)
This is a picture from my phone of a typical day's usage, of 1.44 kWh for a 24 hour time period. I like the fact the firmware is easily updated over the web, and the fact I can see on my phone so much info over Bluetooth. Monitoring with the Currant unit, once saved my butt, when it suddenly showed the daily kwh go up by 50% because the Samsung had iced up due to a mistake of mine. Also I appreciated the manufacturers tech support on the web, and by email.
I've been looking at 12v fridges myself. I want to put something with more cubic feet than the old Norcold absorption. Couldn't find any residential fridges that would fit in the opening with the required clearances, and the way my RV is laid out there is no way to expand the opening. I've looked at Everchil and there clones such as GE and RecPro, but the documentation states that it needs and inch gap on the sides of the fridge. If you remove the blue foam insulation you could gain 3/4 of an inch which might be enough. The Dometic, Furrion, and Norcold do not require the added room on the sides like the Everchil. However, the Dometic and Norcold are so new that I couldn't find any real world use reviews of these fridges. The Furion had horrible reviews and supposedly Forrest River had so many problems with them that they switched to other brands. I haven't completely decided yet, but I am leaning to waiting a year and see how things go with the Dometic and Norcold fridges.
jbeam Your 36ft 270 has a Dometic NPR 1062 only 23 11/16 wide, width height depth measurements are on page 8 of manual your manual. (See below) Good luck on your search.
Operating Instructions - Dometic NDR1062 Installation And Operating Instructi... (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/40753/Dometic-Ndr1062.html?page=8#manual)
My Samsung RF20HFENBSR, (32 3/16 wide), only required 3/8 inch clearance on top and sides and 1 inch on rear for connections. The space in my 1997 U295 4000 exceeds that, without modification of width of previous opening. Had to remove platform below old Dometic. All intake and exhaust air comes in and goes out at the bottom of the refrigerator and to the front. I've sealed off top and rear vents. Normally when operating the refrigerator, the inside temperature of our rv is between 65 and 82 degrees.
Pictures of removed Dometic RM7832 & Samsung, including molding around front edge.
Shared album - John Lewis - Google Photos (https://photos.app.goo.gl/qTu2hnrZJb3FeeKD8)
Jbeem, your layout in a 36 ft is different than a 40 ft and a non counter depth refrig will stick out about 3 extra inches, likely into the hallway going towards the bedroom. The doors on most Counter top depth refrigerators stick out past the face of the cabinets. You may not want the extra case size to limit your clearances.
Measure carefully.