Found a water leak today on the water manifold on the cold side bottom a reducer can any one tell me where to purchase one or point me in the right Direction not very good at fabrication of new pieces just like to replace broken part .
IIRC you are going from 1" to 1/2". What you have pictured is no longer available, but I think there is an alternative (all metal). Call and ask these people, or Viega.
PEX - Radiant Heat - Radiant Heating - Plumbing Supplies - SupplyHouse.com (https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=viega%20manabloc%20supply%20adapters?searchText=viega+manabloc+supply+adapters)
Rick,
If the above suggestion doesn't pan out, try taking the broken connection to Lowes or Home Depot. I'm pretty sure you can find the parts in the plumbing dept to reproduce it. You will need to get creative and assemble it from several pieces glued together. Looks like that is what they did to make the original part. And...they were kinda sloppy with the purple cement.
That reducer isn't available anywhere I looked, be it showcasing or online.
Purple cement, right. I thought FOT made those adapters.
Maybe one of these and add a 1/2" nipple for length ?
Amazon.com: Adapter Nipple 1/2" Male x 1 " Female - Brass Adapter 0,5 inch x... (https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Nipple-Male-Female-Brass/dp/B07QLW3NVX/ref=pd_sbs_1?pd_rd_w=kj4dA&pf_rd_p=c52600a3-624a-4791-b4c4-3b112e19fbbc&pf_rd_r=TM2EYXWAAG5CAH6T0H3J&pd_rd_r=b752a395-590e-4bf5-827a-9f1d329d5a83&pd_rd_wg=ZiGiQ&pd_rd_i=B07QLW3NVX&th=1)
Amazon.com: Reducing Coupling 1/2" Female x 1" Female - Brass Coupling 0,5... (https://www.amazon.com/Reducing-Coupling-Female-Brass-Fitting/dp/B07QLWWMZW/ref=asc_df_B07QLWWMZW/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726550735199&psc=1)
That brass female connector on Rick's broken part looks a lot like garden hose thread with washer inside. I know they have those at Lowes/HD because I used one to make my fresh water tank quick fill pipe.
What did you do to your coach today VII (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33153.msg301076#msg301076)
If I remember right it's 1" NPT.
Guys he doesn't have Lowes or HD available due to his geographical location. Supply House is a great resource. Mark
Ace hardware will have pex. That's all I used. I'll now have an external pressure reg. I figured it sprung a leak once it'll do it again.
So I I now have a replaceable and adjustable regulator.
As T-Man says try those folks, or call Foretravel parts you may get lucky, and they have some in stock. You might try these folks www.viega.us/en/products/Spare-parts/Plastic...
That purple is not a cement, it is a very thin liquid primer that you use on that type of plastic, then follow with a clear glue.
By the way you do not need to make an exact copy of that fitting as all it is doing is transferring water form Manablock to a pex line. So, just get any fittings that fit both ends and make up a new piece say 8inches long with a 90 elbow for the bend and cut some of the pex line back, crimp on a new fitting and away you go.
JohnH
I should know that purple stuff is primer and not the cement. I CANNOT glue two pieces of PVC pipe together without ending up with purple stained fingers and hands. I always forget to put on gloves until it's too late. :facepalm:
Up date on my leak after reading all the good advice last night I ordered the Viega 46414 PureFlow after doing some research It look like a part that would work but it will take over two weeks to get here I'm in no rush can't go anywhere with this Covid the coach is sitting in my heat garage instead of in the Florida sun then this morning I went to my local hardware store and came back with Reducing Coupling and reducers and a nipple I tried a 1"
nipple into the old Foretravel coupling and it screw in ok and the Treads looked the same but when I try to screw it on to the manifold it started ok but then started hard to turn so I stop didn't like how it Felt just try it by hand so then I tried gluing the old part together with ABS cement and them epoxy adhesive I thought I read that here last night but I can see it today it will now take 8 hr to dry before I can reinstall it back on to try don't know if it will work or for how long
Just try to avoid having "hose washers" behind any kind of enclosure. Normally at your house they might last but in a vibrating diesel pusher, apparently not. I'm impressed mine lasted as long as it did.
That white pipe needs PVC glue not ABS glue.
Well try glueing the old piece and it failed I tried my fitting from the hardware store and it didn't work leaking from the coupling at water manifold tried teflon tape it didn't work guess I have to wait three weeks if I order the right part . Going to call Foretravel tomorrow I've never ordered from them before who is the best person to talk too about this I read on this forum that they should have all the information on this coach at hand I was thinking when I bought this coach what a good thing this water manifold is you can control the water system now I wish it was like all the order rv I had they didn't have this manifold it was all hock in one
I would be in a real jam if we would be out camping and trying to find this part. It's frustrating with no major Rv dealer around to see if they can get the parts I hope I order the right part I need the right part to hock on the manifold then run the water line.
I'll go get some tomorrow I thought I had the right stuff maybe you'll have better luck with that
Pipe dope is better than Teflon tape. I usually use both.
I have some pipe dope but I was think that might plug up something if it got in the water line I use that stuff on are gas Nozzle and pump hose on are pumps at the station I would think that it's the same stuff. I never did any plumbing before scared of damaging the treads on the water manifold then I'll have a bigger problems
Consider keeping a pex plug or two for issues.
I always use our direct fill but the OEM fill port washer started leaking so I plugged it with a pex plug.
All remodeled now.
When you call just ask for the parts desk. The parts guys are very good at their jobs. They might ask for your coach build number if they have to look stuff up. Hopefully they will have something in stock. Give them your Motorcade Club number to get a parts discount.
I had a freeze crack and had to replace the whole manifold. I would not use pipe dope or Teflon tape. The gasket is supposed to make the correct seal.
Be very careful not to strip the plastic threads on the manifold. I think it is very easy to do. The instructions say "hand tighten only" like you would with your water hose.
I am very, very careful because I have to remove mine to install my water heater bypass when winterizing.
Rich
What did you remodeled it Too. did you put a new water manifold in or by pass it all together now would be the time while the coach it staying put this winter. i've been searching the Internet and the forum for a fix I crack the part last winter when I rebuild the bulkhead and I glued it it lasted a year I think I just need the proper Coupling so I can run a 1/2' line and crimp it in what I research so far I think there is only one type of coupling for this water Manifold or if I had two plugs I could remove the hot water tank bypass and Robb one of the reducer
Hi. We purchased the whole manifold for our previous coach which was a 1998 U270 but sold the coach before the part arrived. I will send you a photo of it tomorrow to see if it would work for you as we still have it new in the box and we are located about 45 minutes from Truro.
sound good email rick.cormier@icloud.com
Rick, that brass fitting is a tapered thread so why it started but then got tight. The Viega part is a straight thread that is why they have a rubber seal in it. Have you tried a hose pipe fitting as they are straight thread, but may be a bit too coarse a thread.
That new manablock that you are talking about may not have the part you need, but you will find out once you see a photo of it, keeping my fingers crossed for you.
JohnH
Here is what happened to me - don't let it happen to you. At some point, I turned on a manifold valve the was not connected to a water line but instead had a cap on the connection. I then closed the valve. When I winterized, I forgot I had let a very small amount of water get between the valve and the cap - maybe a tablespoon full. When the water froze, the manifold body cracked.
I now do not have any caps on the unused lines on the manifold! This could also be a problem if you are plumbed for a W/D and don't have one. Don't let water get into those lines. I have mine disconnected from the manifold.
I bought a new manifold from the same manufacturer. It was just a little bit different in size (vertically larger by an inch or two), being 20 years newer, so some reworking of the pex lines was required to line up with the manifold connections. Not hard, just took some time. I was also able to make the the parts to bypass the water heater when winterizing.
They make a special wrench for making the connections on the lines on the side of the manifold. Worth the price.
As I said above, be very careful when installing the top and bottom lines. Hand tighten to make sure you are not cross threaded with the metal on the line and the plastic threads on the manifold. If they do get damaged, I suspect you are looking at a new manifold.
Rich
You can make your own version of a manablock with 3/4" pex pipe, 3/4" to 1/2" T connectors and 1/2" valves, the price will be close to the price of a new 12 port manablock at $135, but it will be repairable!
Up date on my problem with my water leak after try to repair the old part and trying to make up a replacement part. I was very lucky a fellow Foretravel member Economy Travellers just 200 miles away in Canada WOW contact me that they had a new manifold still in the box that they never install on there 1998 U270 that they sold. They sold it to me at a very reasonable price and I appreciate that and I ordered the couplings for the new manifold from Foretravel I am now waiting for the theses parts to install and hoping that it's not to big of a job install I am not to good at modifying things At this rate of repairs by 2022 I will have rebuilt my coach in to a brand new Foretravel Coach l.o.l thanks too all members that gave their in put and advice I am learning a lot this coach has been a very enjoyable learning experience I am tackling things I would've never considered tackling before. I am not at the end of my line but do get frustrated at times but things always seem to work out.
Ritch, I had a similar problem with freezing and my line to wet bay tap was not drained and the threaded end of valve on manablock broke on cold line, but the shut off valve was ok, so turned that off. What I did so I could save the whole Manabloc was to tee off the toilet feed then just put a brass valve on the new piece of pex and then joined up the old tap one to this new feed. I did put a little sticker on new valve to remind myself that the toilet feed now also covers the tap. All has been good for couple of years and it is not a problem. I also cut out the opening for the Manabloc in the cover for all pluming making it about 6 inches wider and deeper so I can actually get to all valves and lines without removing it, and also get tothis new valve.
JohnH
John, my block was cracked so I couldn't just bypass that valve.
Rich
Over 10 years ago, we repair a cracked manifold fitting with epoxy and it has been just fine. No need to fabricate.