Our Powerline isolator failed during the last trip. I have read many of the "passionate" posts regarding replacement and almost hate to even ask about this, but here we go...
Installing a new FET isolator would be the easiest (I don't want a Perko switch), but I like the idea of a combiner. Here is what I'm thinking I can accomplish, but I may be overlooking some potential problem. I seems like a ML-ACR could replace the isolator, boost solenoid, and the Trik-L-Start functions. I would move the house battery cable from the boost solenoid to stud A on the ACR and the start battery cable to stud B along with the alternator output. Connecting the brown control wire from the ACR to the starter solenoid will isolate the banks during cranking. It looks like I could just connect the red control wire for the ACR manual combine function to the existing red wire from the boost switch. I would not be able to manually isolate the banks from the driver's seat this way, but I don't see a need for it. If this would work, it eliminates several connections and would simplify the isolator board a little bit. Clear as mud? Am I missing anything? Thanks for any thoughts.
Dave,
I sorta did what you are proposing, but with manual control rather than automatic. I got there in several steps.
Step 1: I rebuilt my isolator panel using a ArgoFET isolator and replaced the common boost solenoid with a magnetic latching (ML) solenoid.
Step 2: As part of a new alternator installation, I elected to eliminate the isolator and control my battery charging manually with the ML solenoid.
At the same time I removed the isolator, I also removed my Trik-L-Start because it was acting strangely.
This manual charging setup has worked fine for me. See thread linked below if you have any interest in my mods.
Delco Remy 28SI Alternator Installation (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40778.msg405081#msg405081)