In the last couple of weeks, I've noticed an increase in the amount of windshield glass movement in our coach. The gasket is pretty torn up, and I think this has been an issue for quite some time before my ownership, but it is getting worse.
I do my best to keep the coach from any weird off camber/twisted situations, but sometimes backing into a site a little twist is unavoidable.
At the moment, I am in a nearly dead level site outside of New Orleans and my driver side windshield is moved outboard about an inch (has been this way for a few days). I've posted a picture and if you look carefully up the center of the front cap, you can see the button snaps for an old windshield cover line up at bottom and top, but the center gasket is offset to the right. I have seen these two snaps out of line when in a slightly unlevel site, so the front cap is definitely floating (I suspect at the bottom, and not the top of the cap).
The best bet is likely to head from here to Nacogdoches for a real repair, but I'd like to get things lined back up a little before making the journey. Seems less risky to do that.
Does anyone have experience with "sliding" a windshield or gasket around a bit to get things lined back up? Seems like a precarious endeavor, but I thought it was worth asking!
Thanks!
Chip
I just use a big suction cup to get ours back in place. HF make a twin suction cup tool that works well. If the angle is not right, use a heat gun to get the twin suction cups at the right angle. I do that about once a year. No big deal. I suppose I could glue it but I like it to move rather than crack. Best to do it in warm weather.
Keeping fingers crossed for about 13 years now.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce - I'll make a harbor freight run tomorrow to have the tool for when it warms up next week.
If you can check my post, I have reglued the caps back on. Helped a lot .
GV front cap
GV windshield, etc
I think you are going to find that the wood below the windshield that is glued to the front cap has let go and now the whole front end is shifting around.
Either the wood has rotted from moisture getting in or the adhesive has deteriorated.
You might want to search Mr B2 in Australia's posts for his repair of the same problem. Not easy and not for the weak hearted, and not cheap.
We don't have any rot but they do move. See suction cups here: https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=window%20suction%20cups
Pierce
I reapplied adhesive to the underside of the dash to the front cap on ours. Very little movement now, before I was concerned the windshield may pop out. Big improvement.
Edit: forgot to mention the fact that I used 3M 5200 adhesive sealant (black), make sure the underside of the dash is positioned where it should be before applying tho'.......... it's quite permanent after it sets up.
RV Travel Newsletter - Bulkhead Issue for new owner (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41525.msg413953#msg413953)
Exactly ,the adhesive failed on ours and I repaired it..check my prior post...8K miles and no issues
Here is a somewhat clear picture of the inside of nose/dash interface. The adhesive has clearly let go and no longer ties the dash to the front cap. I don't think we have any rot (nothing feels soft from the bottom side anyway).
I was thinking about a repair from the outside with 5200, then saw that FourTravelers had done the same. Hans did a similar repair with West Marine six 10.
Considering we are full time and I'm working at the campground, one of these methods is the way to go.
I think I have a tube of 5200 on board for emergencies too. Any reason I should search out the six 10, or just go with the 5200?
Thanks all!
5200 gets it done.for me .
But, long cure time. Make sure you don't plan to move during cure time.
5200 is pretty remarkable stuff. I used it on the hull seams on my 19 foot aluminum deck boat. It "cured" my leaks and with good surface prep and adequate curing time it was a long term fix. It was more effective than a welded repair attempted in one area. Wear gloves.
I preferred the Six 10.....prep is everything..!!!!! must be clean clean clean.....the six 10 has great horizontal adhesion no sag.....DWMYH...!...any questions , be glad to help,!
I did a more extensive repair.
Removed the chrome handles and ran a new piece of plywood from the wiper motor across to the center of the nose. About 5" by 30 ". Reattached the handles to that.
Then removed the sprayed insulation below the dash, about 6" back from the seam. 5200 and screws to secure another 5" by 40" ish piece of plywood to the under side.
Then 4 evenly spaced L brackets tweaked to the right angle and screwed to the plywood.
We have a set of rail road tracks that I occasionally drive the coach across on the way to a casino. They are diagonal so they make the coach shake a little. Thing is the window used to jiggle a little separate from the dash jiggle. Not anymore.
At first I was worried that it might be too rigid without any flex. But 4 years and 40,000 miles later seems just fine. Never did have any window moving issues but didn't want to start either.