Our new-to-us '98 U295 has what appears to be a 50A power outlet inside the generator compartment. Did this come standard on these units, or do you think a previous owner installed it? What might the purpose be?
PO installed not original. Can be used to power a house in an emergency if wired at the house correctly.
Definitely not OEM. Suspect that's what's called a "buddy plug" - where you can provide generator power to another rig if you're both dry camping (or possibly to a house, depending on how it's wired (edited this thanks to Mike's reminder below) and if the house electrical panel is properly equipped with a transfer switch)
Dan,
On that age generator it should be wired for 120 OEM. With this buddy plug they could have changed the generator tap to be for 240. You need to check between the 2 hot legs to see if you have 240 or nothing with the generator running. If nothing then check between 1 leg and neutral and see if you have 120. This is just a FYI before you put it to use.
Looking at the pics. it appears that you have a rear isolator mount on the control box that need replacing. If you do one do all 4. If these get bad enough it will shake the insides apart sometime down the road. This isn't a today have to job but soon.
One other observation is you will need to think about updating the insulation around the generator. Yours looks like it is starting to shed and this plastic gunk can get sucked into the generator end of your unit causing all kinds of grief. Lot of us with coaches this age has done this upgrade also.
Mike
Kool - I want one. :thumbsup:
Anybody know what is involved in adding a outlet to a stock 10Kw generator?
This latest Texas cold snap has me seriously considering different ways to provide emergency backup power to our house. Since we already have a 10Kw diesel generator sitting in our driveway, that seems like the cheapest way to go. Yes, I know about the safety requirement for a fool-proof transfer switch. Soon as it warms up again, I'm getting some bids on the total cost to hook the coach genny to our house. The OP's 50A power outlet looks like a great place to start.
I've been thinking the same for months. Definitely on the list. Also I had never even thought about being able to let someone else power up lights keeping in mind staying within acceptable limits. And being able to plug in my house gas pack heaters is a real plus. Two legs of 115v ac would be a nice backup.
Scott
Chuck,
About $50 to $75 in parts and a couple of hrs. work on a Unicoach. You remove the scatter shield underneath and roll the generator out so you can get to the junction box. This gives you plenty of working room. Now on your Grandvilla with the side generator you will need to access the junction box where the generator is tied into the coach wiring. Never did a GV though so how hard to get to the junction box this is an unknown.
If you want to run it through your breaker panel rather than just through the generator breakers then it takes a little longer and you will need several more feet of wire and conduit. Some people may require a few roasted hops soda pops after completion.
Mike
Check the air filter too,hope it's been changed since 9/10.
I have an identical 50amp outlet on my rig.
I wonder if that 50 amp outlet was ever offered as a standard feature, or a option, by the factory on new coaches?
Mike, where exactly are the rear isolator mounts in these pics? I assume the control box is in the top left with the breakers & switches, but I don't see what you're referring to.
Arrows point to "front" mounts. I would assume there are also two mounts in the "rear".
Chuck is correct as there are 4 matching ones, 2 in front and 2 in the back. Look closely at the one on the passengers side of the generator. See how it looks like it is stretched out not in compression. This usually will happen when the opposite corner has failed causing a teeter tot effect. The isolators are available on eBay and Amazon for a couple of bucks a piece.
Mike
edit: Here is the first ones that I can find shop around for the best price. This will give you the size you are looking for. 4 Rubber Vibration Isolator Mounts 5/16-18 (1" DIAMETER x 3/4" THICK) BRAND... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Rubber-Vibration-Isolator-Mounts-5-16-18-1-DIAMETER-x-3-4-THICK-BRAND-NEW/262711022081?hash=item3d2acc1201:g:YUEAAMXQ~c9RGnx-)
I just went through this query recently, Chuck, even though I was warned that I would be opening up a "can of worms". You can check out the posts with all kinds of responses. From what I was able to conclude, the ATS in our coach would prevent a current from "backflowing" from generator to the 50A cord. For me to do it, I would have to install a separate HD wiring from a junction box (with manual switch) at the bed pedestal redirecting the current from ( generator to a new outlet in the utility bay. This switch would be between the generator and ATS. The 50A cord would then be moved from the original inlet to the new outlet which would bring current to the subpanel (in my case since I have an RV garage) which leads to the main house panel. The main house panel should then have a lockout on the main switch to avoid inadvertently powering the grid. For me, that would require a checklist: 1- Turn on inverter switch at bed (power away from ATS and to outlet), 2- move 50A cord, 3- lock out main switch and 4- turn on generator. A separate list would have to be made in taking it out of service.
Of course, you would have to have the wiring to the main panel to handle the load. If you are like many, there is a 30A or 50A outlet to plug in your coach to keep it charged.
I would be interested in hearing if there is a problem with regard to mechanics or safety in this. A 50A outlet at the generator might be much simpler.
Regarding safety, there are devices that force a lock out of the house main in order to plug the generator output into the house service. You
absolutely want to make sure there is no way any power can go from the generator down the service line when the generator is running.
You do not want to and should not rely on a checklist, as that's not going to help the lineman when he fixes the connection that caused the outage in the first place and you zap him.
Agree, a mechanical interlock (https://www.amazon.com/Challenger-Generator-Interlock-Anodized-Aluminum/dp/B086Q1PBXS/ref=asc_df_B086Q1PBXS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459726133897&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1079408568383207295&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026339&hvtargid=pla-945755535038&psc=1) , transfer switch, or other device similar device should be used to prevent energizing the incoming service lines via a connected generator. They are likely required to be compliant with code, but even if not required, they are a prudent safety device.
I installed a manual interlock on the main power panel coming into my property. In my case my genset is much smaller. "Not the motor home one" The interlock is a metal plate that bolts to the inner cover of the panel. You can slide it up or down. Normally it is slid down and the main ckt breaker can be turned on. Turn off the main and you can slide it the other way and it will unblock the upper breaker on the left. In my case it is a 20 amp breaker. Then I can turn on the 20 amp breaker which blocks the plate from sliding so the Main breaker cannot be turned on. One breaker or the other can be engaged but never both.
Very inexpensive and effective. Keeps the power line from feeding the generator and the generator from feeding the power line.
In past hurricanes I wired the gen-set cord into a breaker in the panel first turning the main breaker off and then padlocking the cover closed. I would manual turn off all the breakers except for the ones I intended to use to keep from overloading the gen-set. Only enabled lighting and the fridge and chest freezer. AC Elevator etc were not enabled. Took a check list to get it all right.
I successfully used it through three Hurricanes. Power line crews inspected it and allowed me to use it.
The crews were shorting the power line before they made repairs so the risk was minimal.
Updates from the OP:
One: With a multimeter and the genny running I see that I have 240v between the two hot legs, and 120 between each individual leg and neutral. What does this mean relative to how I might use this outlet in the future? I'm not at a campground where I can compare it to what I see on a post outlet.
Two: I slid the unit out and looked at the rubber isolator mounts. They actually all look good - same height and all.
Three: What's the best way to deal with the peeling plastic along the edges of the foam insulation? The pieces that are loose around the air intake are actually pretty tough - I couldn't rip them off with my hands, I'd have to cut it with scissors.
Four: The air filter with what appears to be a date of 09/10 on the housing - I pulled it out and it appears to the eye anyway to be in good shape. I blew it with the leaf blower also and got no dust. This probably means nothing though, huh? Why does it have fins on it though? It doesn't look or feel like it spins in there?
Five: The puddle of rainwater I found on the floor below the generator turns out not to be water but rather diesel fuel. The 12" line running down from the fuel filter is definitely the culprit and will be replaced today.
Dan,
What you are reading is the same as what you would get at a campground 50 amp outlet. Your coach is a campground outlet on wheels! ^.^d
Correct. Same as CG. Same as a sticks and bricks house.
With, repeat with the proper change over equipment that disconnects one source before connecting the other with no possibility of "backfeeding" the grid, this will work to power limited electrical equipment in a house.
You could also replace the fuel filter while you're at it.
A concern with an older filter is that the adhesive holding it together ages out. You don't want to risk "dusting" the engine if the filter starts to break apart. 3-ish years is the general guideline. 10 years is a tad long...
The fins on the end of the filter are for improving the air flow. They create a "twirl" or cyclone effect of air around the filter.
So..... no, the filter doesn't spin.
I too have the same plug in front of my generator. I haven't checked it out as far as whether it works or not but when I had to stick some bricks I thought that I could plug it in in case of a power failure to the house via my 50 amp connection I had put in the house to power the coach. But yeah you would have to have a way of isolating the house off the grid. Otherwise it could be quite shocking for someone. It would have helped a lot of people during this problem in Texas with power failures or anywhere for that matter as long as you could start your generator and had the fuel to run it. I think my generator uses a half a gallon per hour so a full tank of fuel you could conceivably power it for 15 days. And that would certainly be enough to get you through almost any power outage.
I had FT install that plug after I bought the coach. During a blackout I run an extension cord to power my fridge, a tv, and some lights but would never tie it into the home system.
The recent cold snap in TX, although of short duration, brought back memories of last years 2nd Ice Age. It also reminded me of this topic. Back then I expressed a interest in putting one of these outlets on our 10kW generator, but never got a "Round-Tuit" (as Bill used to say).
But now I'm thinking about it again. Buying the materials is no problem. I'm wondering if any of our electrical savvy members could go into detail on how exactly this outlet would tie into the existing generator wiring. I don't want to go through the electrical panel in the coach. I want the switch to be mounted right on the generator, as shown in the photos earlier in this thread. I want the outlet to put out power exactly the same as a camp ground 50 amp pedestal outlet.
I DON'T want to get into the details of how to connect this outlet to our house (which is my ultimate goal). Once I have the functional outlet mounted on our generator, I will hire a pro electrician to arrange a way to connect to the house that is legal and safe. There are many Youtube videos on this subject, and I fully understand the importance of "doing it correctly".
SO, how does one wire one of these handy outlets? Diagrams would be great, or photos of a actual buddy outlet installation.
Before going ahead with the 4 prong 240V 50 amp box and outlet, is your generator capable of 240V or is it wired only for 120V?
I don't know. How do I test to find out? Without killing myself...
I know the generator can be wired for 240 as I phoned Tech and asked but he didn't
recommended it. As Dans generator plug is wired 240 it would be interesting to see
how it is done. I have a 30 amp 240 generator that I have used once, but to run off
the coach generator would be a lot handier and I usually have a full tank of fuel. I'm
with Chuck I would like to see how it's done.
If you are comfortable taking the main breaker panel off, with a voltmeter set to measure 250 VAC, measure across the 2 "hot" leads coming to the main breaker with shore power disconnected and generator running. If you see approx 240 VAC then generator is producing 240 VAC. If you see 0 VAC, then generator is wired for 120 VAC. Either way you should see 120 VAC from each "hot" lead to neutral.
Peter,
Thanx for the help. I replaced our shore power/generator ATS with a manual switch. The switch is easily accessible under the bed platform. The cable from the generator to the switch has 3 wires: black, white and red (plus a bare copper ground wire). Would measuring voltage between the red and black wires tell me what I want to know? See photos in link below:
Transfer switch questions (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=26766.msg216525#msg216525)
KOOL. I can do that with minimal danger of electrocution. Might wait a day or two for warmer OAT before firing up the genny. I'll get back to this thread when I have the test result!
Looks like 49° at 4:00 today...
I am interested in this too. I would like to plug in the 50A plug but allow the generator door (mine is in the front) to be closed. I guess I need to measure mine too, but I thought I read that it is 120V. I keep meaning to call Powertech but whenever I have time, they are closed already.
I do have a 50A plug on my house, it provides shore power to the coach. An electrician came out and said with that plug there, it would be easy to provide power to the house from a generator by adding a breaker. I would hire someone to do this professionally.
Will watch this thread and hope that more details come along
Chuck what kind of generator do you have.
Powertech 10kW with 4-cylinder diesel. The yellow decal is gone from our generator so I don't know the specific model number or any details. See photos in link below:
1993 generator issues (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=43779.msg441476#msg441476)
As far as I know all of the Foretravel PowerTech generators (at least those of the 90s vintage) are capable of producing 240V but are wired for 120V. My understanding is that their voltage regulator circuitry can't produce equally-balanced voltages on the two legs when wired for 240V service unless the loads on both legs are nearly equally balanced.
A way to provide equally balanced generator loading is to convert the generator to 240V and add a 240V - 120V/240V auto-transformer. Victron has a 32 amp and 100 amp option.
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Autotransformer/Victron_Energy_Autotransformer-en.pdf
If you are talking about emergency power for your house, even if just 120 VAC, I see no problem in wiring a "pseudo-50 amp outlet"
Yes, your neutral would be the limiter (as it carries the SUM of amps instead of DIFFERENCE), but that is exactly the same as in your coach.
OK, I went out and fired up the generator. It hasn't been run in a couple months, and has been soaking in 10-15 degree (F) temps for the past few nights. Cranked instantly first try after only 30 seconds of preheat! Running smooth as silk. I LIKE our old generator!
Ran the multimeter check on the 3 wires that connect our generator to my manual switch. As stated by D.J. and suspected by Peter, my generator only puts out 120 volts. :'(
Between the black and red wire I got zero volts.
Between the black and white wire I got 121.4 volts.
Between the red and white wire I got 121.4 volts.
So now the question is:
1. Mod the generator to put out 240 volts? What is required? How much does it cost? Who can do it?
OR
2. Settle for a 30 amp 120 volt "Buddy Plug" on the generator?
OR
3. What Brett says (above) of which I need a better explanation.
Chuck,
1. No
1a. Moving a couple of wires in the end bell
1b. $0.00
1c. You
2. No
3. Yes or said another way make it a fake 50 amp and don't run any 240 v devices
Seems like there is a wiring diag. somewhere in the media section that shows a true 50 and a fake 50
Mike
You could have Roger design a complicated multi-pole, double-throw switching system (installed in your motorhome) to have the generator supply 120V power to the motorhome and then switch to supply 240V power to the new outlet. Then you would need to have installed (in your home) the 100 Amp auto transformer Peter suggested, which would then be followed by a transfer switch to isolate your home from the utility power.
Trouble is, one of my highest priority items to run (when the grid goes down) is our 240V water well pump.
The more complicated this sounds, the lower my enthusiasm to tackle the project. :(
My more-realistic suggestion would be to install a standby-generator system from Generac. We installed a partial-home system using a sub-panel for our essential circuits and a generator and automatic-transfer switch sized for the essential loads. This has worked quite well for us—including the 7-day period we we without utility power after a tornado passed within 1/2 mile of our house.
Pierce bought a step up transformer for his well.
Chuck, in 2007 our part of Missouri was hit with a huge ice storm. The question wasn't "Did you lose power?" but rather "How long were you out?" We had a wood-burning fireplace, and lots of trees, so we thought we were fine. Then came the ice storm. After that I bought a $2000 generator and built a $20,000 garage/shop for it. No more ice storms like that one.
I'd suggest that you just buy a generator that will power your well pump and some of your house. Might be a simpler solution. You might even be able to put the generator on a truck or trailer and then you could take it out to the back 40 where there is no electricity to help you with some of those long-delayed projects.
Chuck, I'm in the same position and have to power a well. Following this thread, it is discouraging.
The other option I've also been looking into is a PTO generator since I have some tractors. Some folks are not fans of them but I don't share that mindset. Do you have a tractor? A good non-Chinese pto gen with 10-15kw is 2000-2500. That would be ample for the well and to run everything in the house using load management.
You may find it easier to install a new 50-amp breaker in your main breaker panel, connect a 4-wire #6 cable to the new breaker and have a female 50-amp campground outlet on the other end of the #6 cable. This way you have a safe, easy method to manage breaker to protect the new cable and outlet.
If your main breaker panel is accessible and it has an open breaker slot this will be straight forward. Just snap in the breaker and wire the black & red to breaker, and white & ground to bus bars. We used a short 50-amp shore cable with a molded female outlet and a cutoff male end connected to the breaker panel, with breaker normally turned off. The molded female eliminated the need for wiring box.
Your setup will be for emergency and your generator will not be able to supply whole house needs, so just manage house loads when using your emergency generator to run furnace, refrig etc. No need to have emergency 220 volts to run cooktop, dryer, electric hot water tank. Generator will supply power to whole house, but you will have to manually manage it ALL.
As mentioned, RV generators are usually like yours, not producing 240 volts. RV 240 volts generators can cause problems. And 120 volt generators can cause different problems. No such thing as perfect solution. Keep yours 120 volt and manage all loads so the do not total much more than 50 to 60 amps. Loads much higher can damage white neutral wire, transfer switch, etc. Powertech uses a neutral wire larger then #6 to the first junction box, but all other neutral wiring in coach is #6, which is limited to 50-60 amps. Everyone should manage all generator loading to prevent damages. Motorhome generator is not the same as campground power or house power.
We have the same problem as our well is down 160 feet and is 220V. I replaced it a few months ago with another 220V pump with the help of some kid I hired to help me. But, I discovered a new generation of 110V deep well pumps is now available with excellent GPM at deep depths. https://www.homedepot.com/p/XtremepowerUS-1-HP-Submersible-2-Wire-Deep-Well-Water-Pump-115-Volt-209-ft-33-GPM-75149/308973597 We also bought a 3000 gallon storage tank to store water above the house to tide us over when we have our frequent high wind or snow blackouts. Our tank is one of the brands used throughout Latin America and has distributors in the U.S. The stateside headquarters is not in California so even though the tank storage facility is, there was no sales tax and we just took a trailer and turned it on it's side for the 2 hour trip home. Several hundered $$ cheaper than HD or other suppliers.
I just bought a small Farymann 41E437 sailboat diesel for $150 and am restoring it to spin a 5500 watt 110/220 generator head for our well and home during our outages. Had to buy a new starter and will add one of my Bosch alternators as they are plug and play for this engine.
Pierce
What David said about the two legs need to be balanced to run the generator
on 240 is what the tech told me as balancing the load would be almost impossible
so I gave up the idea of 240 volts. Now remembering that I will give up on making
a plug for the house.
If you don't need 240 in the house you can put a plug in and supply both circuits in the house separately. The same way we supply a receptacle for the coach. Mine works fine for outages.
Well, thanks for some very interesting comments. Hope they are helpful to all members who might be contemplating this project.
From 2 members (D.J. & David) comes the suggestion for a standby generator. We have considered this solution but never really looked into it seriously. One impediment to us having a Generac is the lack of a suitable fuel source. Our house is 100% electric. We do not have natural gas pipelines in our neighborhood, and we do not have a big residential propane tank sitting outside our house like some of our neighbors. I know they sell diesel powered units, but then we would need a big ugly diesel storage tank and have the "stale fuel" hassles.
Jason mentions the possibility of a PTO generator. Sorry - we don't have a tractor.
Pierce brought up a very interesting bit of news (to me): the availability of a 115V down-hole water well pump. Our present pump is getting near end-of-life, based on prior experience. Well pumps only last about 6-8 years around Midland due to high mineral content of the water and sand being ingested. Next time we need a new pump I will definitely ask about the 115V model.
Keep the ideas coming! As usual, I am learning a great deal from this discussion.
Chuck, we are all electric as well. How deep is your well? Here in Central Texas, mine goes to 560 ft so 115v is not an option. If/when the pump goes, I may look at a solar pump. I do have a 2500 gallon cistern adjacent to my well, the transfer pump is on a 20A double pole breaker. Have you considered putting a cistern in? Maybe there is a way to start this on a 120?? This would provide plenty of water if used sparingly.
I have also considered a large petrol generator to run the well. But this is not my favorite option. And propane consumes too much to be viable for an entire house IMO. If the power is out for an extended period, getting a propane truck to fill up a stationary tank could be difficult. Not to mention, you have to pay for the 300-500 gallons at a time I believe. A hit on the wallet at about $3/gal currently.
The other option I do like - which is pricey - is solar with batteries like the Tesla Powerwalls. I plan on putting solar at my house sometime in the next 1-2 years, I just built a house so I need a year of data to know what size I truly need. But this may not be for everyone.
Jason,
Our well pump is only 90' deep here in Midland. The bottom of our well is at 120' so considerably more shallow than your location. We have been drawing out of the same well for over 40 years. Other than replacing worn out pumps, the well has been totally reliable. Our water quality is very hard, and like I said we do suck some sand up in the pump, but it's pretty good tasting water.
Yes, we are looking seriously at solar. Some of the deals being offered these days sound very enticing. Also the "power wall" type products from different makers are coming down in price. I think we will eventually spring for some type of solar setup with battery storage.. With the high number of annual sunny days we have in Midland...might as well use it for something worthwhile.
As far as diesel getting stale, it may get out of spec for emissions but our 500 gallon tank was last filled many years ago and still runs the tractor fine. Some of our diesel is going on 20 years now but still looks the same, smells the same and the tractor starts and runs fine. We heated the house with a Toyo OM22 but farm diesel is really expensive now and with propane under $1 in summer several years ago, the propane became the secondary behind the wood stove. Unfortunately, winter propane is now $2.80/gallon delivered. With the thousands of trees down, everyone is giving away the oak now where it was like gold last year so the big snowstorm had a silver lining in it for us.
Pierce
My service truck for the Cat loaders I used to own has been parked in my back yard since I went in the crane business in '93 and the Lincoln welder has the fuel in it from the last fill up. It still runs the Perkins diesel engine just fine. When it runs out I will have to use fuel cans to fill it up as it is no longer registered and the tires are now 30 years old and still holding air but would shred if they were driven.
When I was working with equipment they would be parked for years until they were needed
and then we would get batteries out to them and they usually would start up.
What about condensation building up in the long-term diesel storage tanks? Does it stay on the bottom of the tank and cause no problem? Or do you need a water separator on the storage tank outlet connection?
Just asking out of curiosity. I'm fairly certain I would choose solar+batteries over a diesel powered Generac.
Chuck,
I made the mistake of not having the water separator and got water/algae in a car. A filter was installed at the outlet and all has been fine since then.
The little 12.5 hp diesel I have now is supposed to use well under a half pint per hour at partial load and not much more than that with a larger load.
Typical house will probably use more than a battery/solar/inverter can provide at night and during winter bad weather. I can power our house with the inverters in daylight hours but go to the PowerTech at night until we go to bed and then have a bag of ice from the freezer for the fridge. Unless the temp gets down to 25, I don't touch the U300. We get a lot of sun in the daytime so the coach warms and never freezes inside or in the bays.
Pierce
Getting back to the original subject: installing a auxiliary power outlet in generator compartment.
As you can tell from my questions below, I need to educate myself on this subject. Make any answers simple enough for a neophyte.
I'm still trying to understand exactly what I could do with a "fake" 240 volt socket powered by my generator.
The cable running from my generator to my manual AC power source select switch has 4 wires: Black, white, red and bare copper. We have ascertained (Reply #41) that my generator puts out 120 volt power.
Say, just for discussion, that I disconnected the generator input cable from my selector switch, and connected the 4 wires to a simple RV power socket as shown in the photos below.
Then, I make up a "jumper" cord to go from the RV power socket over to my garage - about 25-30 feet. The jumper cord is made from a standard 50A RV power extension cord, constructed with 6/3 + 8/1 gauge wires. I cut the female end off and leave the wires loose. Plug the cord into my new generator power supply socket.
Here is where I'm not clear. Say the loose wires on my jumper cord are connected to a simple electrical sub panel in my garage. If I connected the black wire to one circuit breaker, the red wire to a second breaker, and the white wire to "common", would I have two 120 volt circuits available? How much of a load (how big a breaker) could I put on each circuit?
Is this what Barry was talking about in Reply #49 where he said I would need to limit the load to 50-60 amps? Is that the total combined load on both breakers? Is that because the "common" white wire in the jumper cord would be carrying the total amp load on both circuits? If so, even 50 amps at 120 volts is 6000 watts split between two circuits, which seems pretty useful...
I realize there would need to be some kind of safety lock-out system in place before my small sub panel could be connected to my main household panel. I'm not worrying about that right now. I just want to know how much 120 volt load in our house could be supported by the "fake" 240V outlet on the generator, running through a 30' 50A jumper cord.
You have the right idea. You could do as you have described and put two 20 Amp breakers in the sub-panel and have plenty of safety margin. You could probably install one 30 Amp breaker and one 20 Amp (and perhaps even two 30 Amp) and be just fine.
With all the discussion of backup power I thought this may be interesting to understand what typical power your home would need during a power outage, to plan your backup system requirements.
If you have the old fashioned electric meter with the spinning disc you can measure the seconds for 1 revolution and calculate the power in watts being consumed at that point in time.
I checked earlier today and the disc rotated once in 25 seconds - house was using about 1000 watts. We have 3 working at home with computers, router, modem and cpl TV's, a few lights and a fridge running, seems about right.
Meter may say Kh 7.2 on the faceplate which is the most common value for watts / revolution. See formula under the operation section in this link:
Electricity meter - Wikipedia (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electricity_meter)
^^ Interesting.
My electric company's portal allows me to slice n' dice my usage in various ways. I can see MoM, YoY, unbilled, hourly, daily and average usage to name a few on both web and mobile platforms. I suspect others have the same.
You can convert your 120V into 20Phase 240V for your well pump with a "T" transformer.
SCOTT T TRANSFORMERS | L/C Magnetics (https://lcmagnetics.com/transformers/scott-t-transformer/)
When I had my Linotype shop I also had Mohr saw that required 240V. I used a T transformer and 120 from two breakers to power the saw.