Hoping someone can help with this problem as FT has not been helpful. My slide room sits too low in the opening and it is causing the gap at the top to be too large and the gap at the bottom to be too small and also causing the gap at the lower corner radii to be way too tight. I need to have the seal replaced by my dealer (it was agreed and included in the purchase agreement) and I need to know how this room can be adjusted so it meets the HWH spec for proper gap which they state is nominal 3/8" and maximum 1/2". My dealer knows nothing about Foretravels and I need to find out how this is done so the new seal does not get damaged. I know I have the train slide mechanism but it's not clear to me where the weight of the slide room is carried and how it can be adjusted to sit in the opening properly. I've attached two pictures and one of them is my coach showing the tight corner and the other is a photo I found on line showing the seal replacement process with the slide room pushed in and you can see what appears to be an aluminum bearing surface of some sort. I'm wondering if there are shims there. If anyone has any knowledge of these slides or other advice for me it would be greatly appreciated.
Ping Brad Slaughter via the forum if he doesn't see this first. He's gotten pretty "up close and personal" with the 2002 slides.
Yes, the room rides on plastic guides and they can be shimmed. MOT did mine. They pushed in the room as shown in pic 2 and shimmed.
You may be able to see them if you deflate the bladder or look from the inside with the room extended.
Rich
2002 U 270 shims are placed under the plastic pad shown in the picture , since I didn't have more shims I actually made a shim to raise the aluminum block to a specific height and then used shims under plastic pad (actually removed the shims under the plastic pad)
The hardest part of this whole job is removing that decorative piece from the slide on the inside that connects both column pillars to the center, I have modified that, Making the posts separate from the centerpiece.
John, those pictures are invaluable, thank you so much. I now have a pretty good understanding of how the slide functions. I too have removed the interior slide pieces and separated them. I added a ledger to the big top header so that I can lift it into place by myself and it will support itself until I can install the button head screws from underneath. I added metal angle brackets to connect the side trim to the header trim and I can access them with a small screw gun from behind to fasten them together. Someone before me didn't know how to get all of the trim apart and actually split the cherry wood in several places and glued it back together. I suspect it was probably an RV repair shop that was not familiar with FT. Thanks again for the info and pictures.
One other thing that I found out at least in my situation to get the slide to go in the additional 3 inches needed to clear the pads and aluminum block I needed to remove all the bolts that hold the train system to the bulkhead