Hello, hope all is well with everyone.
Problem = fridge isn't cooling at all. Norcold MOD 982. OME
Have power, heating element is working,
changed thermastor. Guessing it is the cooling unit at this point. We don't need to rehash residential Vs Rv units, have read past posts on the subject , but didn't find a clear answer as to what the most likely issue could be in this situation. Since the knowledge base is so deep here, thought I would tap in and hear what you think.
Thanks much,
Ron
What size of an opening are you dealing with Ron? That will determine if you want to go with a residential unit or go back to another OEM.
This is the fridge we have. You probably did this but if not, pull the outside cover off and see if there is any yellow deposits that you can see.
Here is a good page with others with the same problem. Everything from forums to user manuals: norcold 982 troubleshooting - Google Search (https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=norcold+982+troubleshooting)
Ours does take a long time to get cold but then is great. We dry camp/boondock most of the time so a residential fridge is not an option.
Pierce
Opening is 60" H / 24" W / @ 24-25" D..
Have checked in the rear of fridge and no sign of leak.
We Boondock all the time when travelling but still use our residential due to solar on roof. It powers everything while on the road.
John H
Is this the John H that I met up in Post Falls ID some time ago on the Loves fuel island headed home to Canada from Grand Junction, CO ?
Haven't pulled the trigger on solar yet, considering it though. Am parked in my space and on shore power and have also thought about Res-fridge. Thinking that if society goes any further off the rails and one needs to bugout ,, having propane option and solar would be ideal..
Just saying....
Ron
Pierce,,, thanks for the link.. Is there a way to test the board that you know of?
John,
We also have solar on the roof but with our shorter length, we can only fit 4 panels with an 1140 watt potential up there. Plus, we only have a tiny bit over 400Ah for batteries. I shut down the inverter when we go to bed as I like to keep the discharge percentage down to a minimum. Our house AGMs have lasted 12 years and going strong today.
Since I made the fridge compartment very fire resistive, I see only disadvantages with a residential. I have an RV fridge from 1978 that works in the garage as a backup when the power is out for a few days at home. But the U300's solar is normally enough to run our entire house on the inverters if we don't use the washer/dryer and no well pump naturally. At night, I run the generator to power the house until we head to bed.
While our Midnite 150 solar controller has operated almost every day totally without missing a beat, there is still the outside chance that if it did have a problem and we were in a more remote spot or Mexico, it would be inconvienent. I like having options. Just like carrying a spare tire. Never turn a wheel without the spare in the compartment.
With the huge propane tank we have, the solar, plus lots of diesel, it pretty much covers all of our needs with lots of alternatives. Our new diesel air heater will cut the noise and propane use. Before summer is here, I hope to have the new diesel water heater in place to replace the noisy propane heater.
So, solar for the fridge in the day and until we shut the inverter down, then the fridge automatically switches to propane. What could be easier?
Pierce
That's kind of my mind set to, Pierce.
I'm in a 34' u270 so roof space is at a premium.
Don't know how much wattage I can get up there. So propane option could be a plus. If I keep propane option and have to replace the cooling unit ,, (Amish),,, will fire proof cabinet then,, is my thinking.
Ron
Yes,, coach is level. Fridge has been fine for the last 2yrs I've been parked here.
That horizontal tank? Place your hand on it, partly to check it's temperature but mainly to feel for thumps. If it's thumping you've lost pressure internally and the water is boiling. Perforations don't always leave a visible sign.
O T,, will do, thanks. Believe I did that when in the compartment a few days ago, didn't hear or see anything other than the heat from the heater. I'll do it now.
Question,, anyone know if the propane would light if the board is bad?
Call jc refrigeration in Indiana once you've exhausted everything else. I have the number in the coach but you can google it as easy.
Before trashing the fridge you may want to try burping it. Remove the fridge and lay it down for 24 hours on it's side. Reinstall hook up and see if it cools, or may just need to take it for a ride and shake It up if you've been sitting. I've done this with success while Wintering on the Baja.
No it isn't thumping, gurgling, or anything like that. Everything is ambient temperature except for the heating element. I think we're down to a blockage in the cooling unit or a dysfunctional circuit board. I'll have to get the dimensions of the Samsung fridge everyone seems to like to see if it will fit in the space, or research others. I know the Amish unit will be @ $500 when said and done. Just going to have to make a call on one or the other and go with it. Don't want to shoot at the circuit-board for $100 without being sure and that not fix the problem....
Thanks to all for your help !
No worries,,,
Ron
Will do Dub,, much appreciated...
Doug,,, it's worth a shot,,, thanks. Weather is to warm up a bit in the next day or two and melt off the snow then give me a chance to do it and block off the vents to keep in the heat.. It's just sitting anyway might as well..
Ron
We had a 982 in our previous coach. At 22 years of age, it developed a leak in the cooling system. It ran, but just didn't cool. When I removed the shrouding from the back, I also found the yellow deposits.
That's my gut feeling at present oldmattb ,, that the cooling unit has run its course. Once I pull it and get a good look about,,, might see a problem. If not I'll try burping and if she fires up great. It will give me time to decide on a good plan of action to remedy the issue for the next decade or more,,,, and warmer weather.
Thanks for the input..
Hard to understand these units and the different behaviors they can exhibit. Mine stopped cooling one day and the next day is when the yellow and the smell of amonia appeared. Go figure.
Yes the propane will light with a bad circuit board, but you need to wire the solenoid valve on and use a match.
FWIW JC Refrigeration makes a 12V compressor cooling unit for some fridges.
BUT (yes, large BUT) you (yes YOU) will then will be responsible for monitoring boiler temperature and turning it off before it starts a fire.
Said another way-- good idea for a REALLY savvy owner. Others, not so much.
I disagree. Yes there is some danger because if the flame goes out the gas doesn't. But the heaters for the boiler run until the inside is cool enough and on a hot day the inside never gets cool enough. Sorry Brett but these things aren't that complicated, and on my Dometic I can use the thermo-couple to hold the solenoid on, so if the fire goes out so does the gas.
I have a 982. I probably will replace it with another E/propane. I wouldn't rebuild mine because of general age fatigue - some rust on the freezer cooling plate, a loose control panel, 23 year old gaskets, and other miscellaneous age related items. It still cools well. Son broke a door pull and had to buy a used one from EBay that was of lower build quality than the original. We open gently. We would have to upgrade batteries for 12 volt compressor or residential since we often boon dock.
Appreciate the info. The propane works now as it should so the circuit board must be in working order. Fridge just will not cool at all. With the help here I think we have narrowed the problem to one issue,, the culprit must be the cooling unit. Will try the burp technique after I pull it and see if she fires up..
I will do a thorough inspection once it's removed and if it boots back up will reinstall while I do some research about options. However, if it doesn't and the unit is in solid condition ,, then I might just toss in the Amish cooling unit and see how it goes...
Thanks everyone for the great help!
I've learned much.
Ron
I've had Dinosaur help troubleshoot reefer problems over the phone. They were great.
Replacement boards for Norcold Refrigerators (https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Nor_boards.htm)
Thanks for the link D Slim,, I will call them..
I agree, IF the thermo-couple is still in the circuit, that would cover a gas leak/no flame.
BUT, my concern with a heat source is more related to a failed cooling unit. A failed cooling unit and continued boiler heating can lead to severe overheating or even a fire.
I bought a U225 with a known bad refrigerator, but it's a Dometic RM4804 with a compressor cooled ice maker so I get to keep one foot in each world. I installed this cooling unit in February 2019 with hand tools and the supplied materials.
I've had a replacement cooling unit since 2014. Seems to still be working great although I'm starting to think about a compressor upgrade.
If you put in a new cooling unit, that's the time to add some fans to the back and inside and a ARP safety unit.
Rich
While I had my fridge on the floor installing the jc refrigeration unit I did line the compartment with concrete board and was pleased with the way it "cleaned up" the space. Looked pretty shabby the way FT left it. I also added a heat exaust fan I bought from JC.. The fan is thermostat controlled BUT once it comes on it NEVER shuts off for the duration the fridge is on even in cold weather. I don't care for that because it would shorten fan life plus if boondocking I have the battery draw from the fan. Not a big issue as I am not full time but I would feel better if the fan shut off once the coil temp cooled to the adequate level. Not sure what if anything I did wrong there and don't know if I will remove the refrigerator to try and remedy it because it's no small chore removing the unit. May remain a wonderment.
Dub,
If the fan is installed up high, you can access it from the roof vent without pulling the refrigerator.
I wired mine to a switch next to the galley light switch so I could decide when it should/should not run (no thermostat).
Norcold Fan | Fan Kit | Fan Switch | Fan Noise | Ventilator Fan (https://www.arprv.com/norcold-fan.php)
It"s mounted towards the top of the cooling unit Bret and my hope is I can reach it from the vent. Not sure of the culprit that causes it to run continuous after thermostat kicks it on.. Jc thinks I wired around the thermostat but I don't believe I did .
Before you replace anything do this easy trick to see if the coils are still good.
Access the fridge from the outside vent. Follow the wires back from the heater to the controller. Remove the controller cover and pull the heater wires. Take an extension cord and cut it in half. With the plugin side add some cramp on spades to the bare wires. Plug the spades into the heater wires. The heaters are AC so polarity doesn't matter. Now plug in the cord to 120v and leave plugged in for 24 hours. This just bypasses the controller and heaters are always on. If after 24 hours your fridge isn't cold your coils are shot. If it is cold you probably have a controller problem.
Be sure to monitor temps on the coils with an IR gun.
see ya
ken
Ken thanks for the tip ! I will try your method and see what happens after our coming snow . In no hurry as yet and still mulling over what option I might want to pull the trigger on if I have to replace the coil.
You have all been a great help...
Thanks Much!!!