During my investigation of a coolant leak, I went to open my rear engine hatch and found that the paddle handle was seized. It felt like it was locked, but was not. Inserting the key did nothing. So I ordered another paddle latch from FOT. TriMark did not carry the OEM paddle latch. I was able to lift the hatch because the latches on both sides are accessible through the grill. While removing the broken paddle handle, the bolt on the cylinder holding the left cable snapped off. The cable runs through the cylinder and is crimped with a very small hex nut in the end opposite to the snapped bolt. See attached pic. This cylinder looks like nothing I have ever seen and I am not sure what the correct description is to do a proper search. Does anyone know where I might find that part? I'll call FOT Monday, but would like to know what to call the part.
Thanks
Bob
"Cable Stop"??
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-3336-Cable-Assortment-Piece/dp/B000COCPZM/ref=pd_sbs_1?pd_rd_w=6hp2r&pf_rd_p=5e0f7f8d-f321-4a3e-bdac-3142fcd848d7&pf_rd_r=BHZRN02H1PHHEXFKEWPN&pd_rd_r=207c592a-2b3b-4012-9494-3f80d947e74f&pd_rd_wg=5oC5F&pd_rd_i=B000COCPZM&psc=1
Is there still enough threads on the bolt to hold a nut after going through the new latch?
If what Caneman suggested won't work you could cut off the threaded part and drill and tap it.
I did exactly that when the threaded part of one of my "cable stops" snapped off. Has held up for years now.
Richard
Thanks for your replies. "Cable stops" seems to be the part I need.
There are not enough threads remaining to reattach a new nut.
I will go with the DORMAN 03339 Cable Stop
Thank you JohnFitz! I'm used to seeing these things on bicycles and mopeds for the brake cables. For the life of me I couldn't pull a usable name from my memory. Now that I have a set coming tomorrow, thank you Amazon Prime, I can shorten the cables that unlatch the driver's seat in the Studebaker. Another niggledy-poo item crossed off the punch list.
How will you attach that stop to the latch? It basically is the same thing you have now with the broken threads. You will need something similar to this.
ZF-15Z-832-I | Griplock Cable Glider and Screw | USALight.com (https://www.usalight.com/ZF-15Z-832-I-p/ZF-15Z-832-I.htm?gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFE_xSkz6Zd96yoV8r0l8taJ8sbXuO6_kZuA2uYmVblENyCSJo97M5BoCr90QAvD_BwE)
How about this? Not cheap but probably less than what FOT would charge. GWIWD. Woody.
Amazon.com: Universal Cable Linkage Heim,Adapts Cable to Ball End, Compatible... (https://www.amazon.com/UNIVERSAL-CABLE-LINKAGE-dune-buggy/dp/B00FB829FK/ref=pd_sbs_6?pd_rd_w=U7rgn&pf_rd_p=527ea27c-adf6-4b67-9c5f-265eb29e0622&pf_rd_r=D9W0SNSJ4BXGXZZ2KXWB&pd_rd_r=0c8bc504-c827-45de-bd15-bb2f1d49b7d7&pd_rd_wg=Wtvaa&pd_rd_i=B00FB829FK&psc=1)
That would be perfect just remove the cable stop end from the linkage and bolt it to the latch.
My: Amazon.com: Dorman 03336 Cable Stop Assortment - Brass and Silver, 6 Pack:... (http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-3336-Cable-Assortment-Piece/dp/B000COCPZM/ref=pd_sbs_1?ie=UTF8&tag=foreforums-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957)
have arrived and they are tapped all the way through. Lots of options for mounting. For me, since my cable is looped thorough the eyes, I'll try to remove one of the crimps, and replace the crimp with the cable stop and adjust to remove the slack.
I have a similar but different problem with my rear engine bay door. pulling the handle doesn't pull down on the actuators enough to unlock it I have to stick my finger through the grill and pull down I know it's just an adjustment and I got to get around to doing it soon.