We have a 1998 coach with 85,000 miles. The power steering gear started weeping a tiny bit of oil. It went from barely visible for the first 500 miles, but the leak accelerated to the point that after about 1200 miles it had lost 5 quarts. We have the coach at Nacogdoches motorhome services and they have received a redhead rebuilt steering gear to replace mine. Also have them working on my furnace.
We canceled a 1200 mile round trip to ABQ, and ran to Nac. Strategic retreat.
Mileage doesn't seem to be as big a factor as age. I did mine before it leaked.
Yes, age seems to be the deciding factor. Amazing how quickly it went from a barely visible weep to a significant leak. Glad I read the many posts on the forum and knew to keep an eye on it. Probably saved me a tow.
Let us know about the R&R cost at NMS. Be sure to do a test drive to ensure the steering wheel is where you want it when going straight down the road.
Same problem. Went from a tiny leak to a torrent. I'm next on the list for a redhead but they are waiting on 4 cores.
Setting Steering Box Left and Right Pressure Relief
The other thing to verify is that the pressure relief settings for turning left and right are set correctly. They relieve hydraulic pressure before you get to the hard stops against the frame. If they are not set right and you hit the hard stops you have high hydraulic pressure against the seals with nowhere to go but blow out the seals. Easy to check and set. With a rebuilt box that was not in your coach to start with there is no way to know where they are set and guessing they might be right is a risky choice.
This video shows exactly how to do it.
http://www.rhsheppard.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/RHShep-English-Relief-Plunger-Adjustments.mp4
Sheppard Service Videos
RH Sheppard | Sheppard Service and Instructional Videos (https://www.rhsheppard.com/customer-service/service-and-instructional-videos/)
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT AND ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL.
The good news is the only tool needed is a small standard screwdriver and something to measure clearance between knuckle and stop-- I use a scrap of 1/8" aluminum.
You may also gain some wheel cut angle in doing it.
Basics are, with coach at proper ride height:
You will need someone at the wheel and someone under the coach.
Back off mechanical stops (bolts).
Adjust max cut angle so that you have ample clearance between tire/wheel and suspension and body components. Screwing out on the small standard screws on the Sheppard M100 box increase cut angle.
Ease off steering wheel and set mechanical stop (bolt) so that wheel can NOT interfere with suspension/body components.
Start easing steering box adjustment until there is a 1/8" gap at the mechanical stop.
So, properly adjusted, you have max cut angle and the steering box goes close (1/8") from the hard stop, but never contacts it.
I suppose mine is one of the cores they are waiting on. I'll let you know when mine gets shipped.
I agree, but also pretty sure it's how much the coach is used regularly, along with the climate they are kept in. When they sit, they dry out.
Regular use good, sitting in storage bad. Same with many other things on coach.
Chris
NMS put my Redhead in last September, they did a great job. I think you'll be happy with their service. They knew I was coming and had the unit shipped to them a couple of weeks before I got their. Sent my core back to Redhead as soon as they were finished.