I had a Redhead installed a few months back but I don't think they adjusted the plungers. Anyhow, have I got this right?
1. Engine running, me under coach and a helper at the wheel. Ride height so no safety stands.
2. Loosen steering stop nut.
3. Helper turns wheel all the way one way until the axle hits the stop (metal to metal).
4. If there is no contact with suspension components, adjust steering stop out as far as I can maintaining no contact with components but still have metal to metal on axle to steering stop.
5. Tighten steering stop nut.
6. Helper turns wheel all the way one way until metal to metal on axle to steering stop.
7. I adjust the plungers in until there's 1/8" clearance between axle and steering stop.
Thanks.
jor
Yes, but be ready to "yell" LESS to your helper if it does contact the hard stop. That way you can back off the stop or if the stop is in the correct place to prevent tire/wheel contact with suspension or body components you can screw IN the plunger until there is 1/8" clearance.
And, for safe clearance without safety stands, you can drive up on 2X12's.
2x12s, of course. Forgot about them. I have a set.
For further clarification, the steering stop should be set at the FARTHEST point that avoids contact with components. This is metal to metal contact. Then the plunger is adjusted to get the 1/8" gap? Thanks.
jor
Yes. The bolt/mechanical stop prevents contact with suspension/body. The plunger insures that the wheels can not turn enough for the mechanical stops to be touched.
This insures that very high PSI are not reached in the steering box and that you are not "hard timing" suspension components under high load conditions.
The stop bolts should have been set at the factory to prevent any tire/frame/hardware interference. Adjust the plungers to get close to the stops but not touch.
See the Sheppard instructional video for this setting here
Another Power Steering Gear Replacement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41849.msg418207#msg418207)
SHOULD HAVE being the operative words. Cut angles weren't maximized on more than several. Setting too little cut angle is less tme consuming than "fine tuning" for that last few degrees.
OK. I am having trouble with this easy job. Here's the deal.
I'm under the rig and don't see any way anything will interfere with suspension components regardless of how far the wheel is turned.
My helper is turning the wheel. She feels some resistance and stops. At this point I could set the steering stop so it would be metal to metal. When she lets go of the steering wheel, the wheel stays in place. I could then adjust the plunger in the direction of less wheel cut to give me the desired 1/8 inch gap.
HOWEVER, she can easily turn the wheel more while feeling some resistance. BUT if I set the steering stop now, as soon as she lets go of the wheel it swings back to that initial resistance point. If I adjust the plunger here I will have to adjust it much more and in the direction of more wheel cut.
So should the stops be set at this first point (just feel resistance) or beyond?
And here I thought I had a ten minute job! Thanks.
jor
PS: The video indicates that the factory setting is minimum wheel cut. Have a call into Redhead to ask them how they ship theirs.
John, when I did my check I had the front wheels sitting on two plastic sign sheets under each wheel (think political signs). The main reason I did this was to reduce the wheel scrubbing as the front wheels turned. When I got to the cut out point the wheels quit moving and it sounded and felt different. This was maybe 8 years ago so the details are not terribly precise. One side was just under a quarter inch, the other side just over as I recall. I turned the appropriate screw maybe a full turn and they were about the same, both more than 1/8". I had read about someone blowing a seal and pumping out a lot of oil in a hurry. So it was close enough for me. Cut angles seem enough on our 36'. Maybe another 1/16" would be good for a 40', I don't know.
I can tell when I get to the limit now and usually back off a bit. If it needs to be a very tight a turn I would rather take a second adjusting forward and back. This is almost always backing up in a CG.
When my steering box was rebuilt it was put back in as close to where it was when it came out. A test drive had the connecting arm from the steering box arm adjusted slightly to center the steering wheel, not much. Double checking hard stops later there was still room to spare.
The wheel should quit turning before you hit any hard stops. Extra clearance won't hurt.
This is good info. Thanks. I can't believe this little project is turning into a big deal. I am parked on gravel. I drove up on my 2/10 stands (4 1/2") but turning the wheel moved the stands. I tried my other stands which are shorter and only 3" and they stayed put. I can't get under there without raising it a bit.
I'll try putting something under the tires. I just expected to be able to turn the wheel to the stops with no change in resistance. Anyhow, I don't see how any suspension components will interfere so I think I'll put in a couple of safety stands, adjust the stops to where I think they should be, clean out some gravel in front of the tires, drive onto something slippery and try it again. Thanks.
jor
I have really learned a lot from this post and before I am on the road again I will check out my coach to see if the steering is correct.
John, I got a pair of 12,000 lb jacks and had one under each end of the front axle with the tire just slightly off the ground the first time I looked. And then I read it was supposed to be done with the tires on the ground. Full load on the axle or tires? Maybe doesn't make much difference but I did my last check on the plastic signs. Tires turned left and right easier but it shredded the signs.
Thanks, Roger. My new SeeLevels should arrive today. I think I'll do that as it's much more fun than this one!
jor
OK. I got it done. I got into this after reading a couple of threads on the proper adjustment of the steering stops. I had recently had my steering gear replaced so I crawled under and took a look. The right side steering stop had definitely been making contact while the left had not. Then I read about the relief plunger adjustment. Not knowing if mine had been adjusted I decided to do that as well. Got some good tips from Roger and Brett and proceeded as follows:
1. Drove the rig up on 2X10s giving me an extra 3" of height.
2. Put a bottle jack center on the straight axle and took some weight off of the tires.
3. Had my helper turn the wheel all the way left and right and I adjusted the stops so they were just touching.
4. Adjusted the relief plunger screws to provide for between 1/8" and 1/4" clearance at the steering stop.
Note:
* In order to get the necessary clearance, I had to adjust the relief plungers in all the way which was 4 turns on the screwdriver. (backed off 1/4 turn) This position is called "minimum wheel cut." Sheppard ships these units in this position.
* The bottom adjuster does the right side.
I'm thinkin' if you've replaced your steering gear, probably a good idea to check out the steering stop situation.
jor
When I inspect a coach, I make sure that the mechanical stop is NOT SHINY (shiny indicates that the steering knuckle has made hard contact with the stop.
When I talked to RedHead about stop adjustment they advised that it is possible to unscrew the adjuster(s) all the way out. Don't do that.
see ya
ken
Trash bags work well under the tires in place of turn plates.
Yea, and the Sheppard video specifically warns against doing so.
jor
Another thing to think about soon.
Still no cores at redhead but juicesqueezer just sent his in. Hopefully will get one sent to me soon.
I checked my stops yesterday and steering to the right needs adjusting for sure. I can tell it has been hitting the right stop. Will
adjust them after I have changed the fuel lines.
Yup if the stop bolt is shiny, YOU HAVE A PROBLEM.
If not shiny, it could be properly set, OR (big OR) adjusting will give you more cut angle. The latter is what I found on our coach. Again, much quicker on the line to set cut angles conservatively-- no high pressure, but limited cut angle.
P
Better sooner than later, before fuel lines. You could potentially blow out seals in the steering box or rupture hoses at any time. Either leaves you stuck where it happens. If you are not driving it then after you do fuel lines is probably OK but this should only take and hour or so, lots less than fuel lines.
AGREE-- at the outside (both sides needing adjustment).
The fuel lines are first but I won't go anywhere until the steering is fully readjusted. I've got 4 things to do before I go anywhere.