Someone installed a set of 9R 22.5 tires on his/her GV. Who dun it and how do you like them?
I'm ready to buy 2 new fronts . I'd like to lose the H rated for the lighter G .
Thanks.MM
I put 9Rs on the front six years ago and I've no complaints or problems, I'll run all six tyres this season then I'll replace them all with the metric sizes to get a bit more contact.
The 7.25 in rims dont like a wide tire on mine. The 275/80/ may be right but the 255 looks better IMHO. The 255 is about the same as a 9R..
https://simpletire.com/brands/sailun-tires/s637#v=1&tireSize=9.00r22.5&mpn=1001373
Using a shorter tire also lowers the bus a little and will drive better. The 9R is 38.3 OD from 39.6
On my '81 that came with 10:00/20 tires from the factory which are tube type I was able to switch to 285/75rx24.5 to get the same diameter as the original tubeless and rotate with my crane tires. My '96 Monaco used 11:00/24.5 which was a easy tire to find as lots of trucks used them.
Just ordered 2 new Sailun 637 . Looked at a bunch and these have the best rating. Good price at around $300 per. The Toyo was only good for 75MPH?
Do you have a link to the tires you bought? Would love to compare.
https://simpletire.com/brands/sailun-tires/s637#curationPos=none&curationSeq=none&curationSource=none&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn8vRyKjn7wIVSuKzCh3gMw9yEAQYAyABEgJJT_D_BwE&itemId=89283&mpn=1001373&pageSource=PDP&productPos=none®ion_id=4000049999&tireSize=9.00-r22.5&userZip=33101&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=G_Shopping_Region_04&utm_content=surfaces_across_google&utm_content=Profit-Bucket_Commercial_LowProfit_Tier-D_RAD&utm_creative=383435609666&utm_medium=organic&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_term=&v=1
All good reviews .
That rating is for sustained speed at max weight. Most of the tires I ran on the class 8 trucks I owned were 75mph rated. Zero tire failure in 1,500,000 miles running at 75 across I-90 in Wyoming.
Thanks. I live in FL with hot pavement and high speeds. Even tho I try to travel after dark.
Opted for the next bump in speed rating. Think that it is 81mph or so. When I went to check out the price came down to 283$
Simple tire date codes are less than 3 yrs . These may be near the end of the 3 yr limit. Works for me. The current set has 22K on them and second day out some porkhead caused me to flat spot 2 fronts .
The 9R are G rated, 20 # lighter and should drive much nicer.
I replaced my steering tires with Goodyear 9R22.5 s. Then I put 275/70 R 22.5 on the drivers. Same height as the 9's and it handles and drives like a charm, and I have the H rated tires where all the weight is..... It had 255/70's on it all the way around when we got it and it handled and drove like a lumber wagon....
My data shows the 275/70 at 37.66 in. The 295/75 @ 39.9 in. ((9R is about 38.3)
I like the RPMvs speed of the 39.9 in tire . 2200 RPM is 63mph. I dont want to loose the gear with the smaller tire. 6% is 2332RPM.
At the same time I would like to get the tire into the middle of the weight schedule so that it works better with 95#s of air.
The 9R comes in G load .
Gotcha, but I was just sharing what I found that worked for me. I totally understand it has to work for you. My figures on the brand I used on my drivers is only .25 inches difference. Depending on manufacturer, casing size differs. Good luck on the new tires. I would be interested in how your tires fare as time goes on. The price certainly is right and the info on them looks really good! Stay safe!
I miss the "What did you do to your coach" thread.
On the way back from the track last month I was thinking about how to add another , better placed set of shocks to the front of my ORED. Peeked under it looking for options , and see that my new ish Bilstein is hanging in the wind. Broken stud at the trailing arm.
So today I engineered the fix for that and added a Steering Damper, (Monroe 2920, sized for 10000# front axles) using a mounting kit from the Safety Plus co. 400$ for a steering shock. Not happening for me . They have an excellent rep and have done a good job marketing tho.
Some tire changing notes; The chrome nut covers promote rust inside of the covers at the low use levels that I have. I am sure that if heated up daily , the water and rust would be less enclosed .
Dragging the rim on and off of the studs leaves tiny fragments of aluminum that can get mixed into the threads of the nuts, grinding stuff away. Push the rim on and blow off the studs, add a little grease and tighten.
I also raised the rear ride height to straighten the drive shaft . Maybe 3/8 of an inch. I have 2, 3/4 in between the frame stop and the axle .
Mike,
Before I headed to Sacramento to get our new tires, I pulled the plastic chrome caps off and like you said, some had collected water and rusted the nuts and threads. I used a battery drill with wire wheel to clean them, used some Liquid Wrench, let it set for a couple of hours and then used our torque multiplier to loosen them enough that a 1/4" 18V impact would spin them off and back on. I use Never Seize on the threads and take 20% off the torque.
If you have never used a torque multiplier, they are incredible for what they do with such little effort and for under $50 delivered. No lug nut is so tight that it won't loosen it with almost no effort. Reaching back a couple of years, I think the ratio is around 44/1.
Remember that many Foretravels (possibly all) have left hand lug nut threads on the street/driver's side of the coach. It's on tiny letters on the lug nuts.
Pierce
Pierce, the nut centered wheels, or Budd wheels have 1 1/2" socket size nuts and have left hand threads on the drivers side. The hub centered wheels are metric and take a 1 5/16" socket and all are right hand threads. This has been my experience so take it for what it is worth.
Chuck
I have the Harbor Freight Electric impact. Totally worth it. Takes just a couple of minutes to remove a wheel.
Yes, I have left and right hand studs.
A good reason to buy the torque multiplier with the most sockets in the case. You also need the flip or square socket for the inside wheel in the rear.
I leave my tires slightly on the ground and then with side to side movements, the tire easily comes off without leaving aluminum on the studs. I lean the tire with the bottom to the outside when removing and lean it with the bottom to the inside when replacing it. When tightening the nuts, I don't like to have any tire weight on the ground for the initial tightening but do the final torque with the tire touching the ground so it does not turn with my four foot bar. Bathroom scale and 90 lbs on or off the scale gives 360 lb. torque with No Seize on the threads for the equivalent of about 20% more.
I have Harbor Freight's largest 110V impact but it won't budge the lug nuts. Their strong battery model will but it's $$$ and not in the budget. HF's smaller $39 110V model is a weak sister.
Pierce
Conclusion; Drives much better with a small ,lighter, narrower tire. The load chart calls for 90ish and seems fine at 95. ( the old tires called for 70 ) . The wandering is less with more air . The tire kick through the wheel is gone.
Another Upside I think that Ican sell the old 12K tires for $600 and come out free-ish .
I also now have 4 shocks controlling the nose and that is a huge improvement.
I sold the 2016 take offs for 450$
Along that line,maybe I will remove my fronts at 3or 4 yrs and update the tires for a couple hundred dollars.
NHTSA Recall ID Number : 22T009
Synopsis : Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company (Goodyear) is recalling certain G159 tires, size 275/70R22.5 with DOT date codes 046 through 0403. The tread may separate from the tire. Tread separation can cause a loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the tires installed on recreational vehicles, free of charge, and provide a $60 voucher for the cost of professionally weighing a recreational vehicle. Goodyear will offer a $500 refund for tires not installed on a vehicle. The manufacturer has not yet provided a schedule for recall notification. Owners may contact Goodyear customer service at 1-800-592-3267.
Not sure this one is worth worrying about. Date code 0403 were made the 4th week of 2003. SO, MORE THAN 19 YEARS OLD. Even if the very best tire in the world, well past replacement time.
BTW, the Goodyear G159 has long been now as a "not so good tire".
If I knew where there was any old warehouses or storage buildings filled with unsold NOS (New Old Stock) tires, I'd be there right now searching for unused examples of this tire.
At a value of $500 each would certainly be a worthwhile treasure hunt! :thumbsup:
Well, kudos to Goodyear for stepping up to the plate and taking action on this product safety defect.....20 YEARS TOO LATE!
Note the publication date on the link below:
Goodyear G159 Tire Failures on RVs Finally Dragged Into the Public Eye -... (http://www.safetyresearch.net/goodyear-g159-tire-failures-on-rvs-finally-dragged-into-the-public-eye/)
FWIW. I love my 9R tires.
I dont use GY on anything anymore.
What size did you end up going with? Are you saying they handle better than the original metric tires?
I put toyo 295/75 22.5 all around a few years ago.
COMPLETELY different chassis, wheels and OE tires.
Michelin 255/80R22.5 fits on the OE 6.75" wheels. I do not know if this is the wheels on the Oshkosh chassis, but was used on several other Foretravel models with 9R22.5 tires. If 7.5" rims, then the 265's in many brands are a good option.
Don't know about the 265/75R22.5 in other brands. The 6.75" rim is not recommended.
I have 7.5 rims
The 9r can run at 95-98# and drive better than the 295/75/22.5 due to the required pressure of 75# , plus the additional weight of the larger amount of rubber and belts.
I will sell the rear tires later this year and get either the 9R or similar G load tires.
I'm 7600# on the nose