We are taking our 97 U295 to Foretravel in May for bulkhead work, and while they are at it, I am going to have them check and possibly replace the fuel lines. Are there any other major/ known issues that we should have them check while they are at it, that would be easier to address while this is being done?
Bruce,
When was the last time the brakes were serviced-- slide pins checked, brakes lubed, and hopefully helper springs installed?
Brakes as Brett said for sure.
Air system related: Air bags, shocks, ride height valves, six pack rebuild, air dryer.
Less frequent service: Differential oil change, coolant change.
I was going to have the "helper springs" installed before I learned that Paul Yasbeck doesn't recommend them. So I suppose the use of helper springs is subjective and a personal preference.
I will do more research on the advantages and disadvantages of helper springs. There are definitely knowledgeable people on both sides of the issue
Well Justin, A friend just had one brake pad stuck against the rotor wear nearly through. The other pad on that caliper looked nearly new. Helper springs were installed on that Foretravel.
So experience plus Brett Wolfe vote for using them. I certainly have them on my 95 and now 2001 Foretravels.
Helper springs totally unnecessary when a vehicle is used daily.
But, in an RV application where it can sit for days/weeks/months, the helper springs help insure that the "lazy side" of the caliper retracts as it should.
The springs fixed my problems, especially when the mechanics used the wrong type grease
Travel man beat me to the question,why does'nt he use them,would love to hear that reason.From what I have read the past few years more pluses then minus.If I was going to have them installed I would have a few pins ready in case you find some pitted and beyond repairing.
Have them check the Harmonic balancer on the trans for play in the output bearing,could be a potential problem,think yours is one of the years it's prone to come loose and vibrate.
Hint: do the shocks and air bags at the same time. May not save much on the bill, but might get you out of the shop a bit earlier. Sometimes an air bag is in the way of an obstinate shock. It certainly makes the guys doing the work a bit happier.
Not issues but common improvements:
* EMS (Progressive Dynamics or other electric monitoring and protection system)
* ARP (if you have a propane refrigerator, this device will protect from fire)
* Inverter/Charger: If you have the OEM it's probably nearing the end
jor
For what it's worth, when having my brakes serviced by MOT, helper springs were an additional $34/ea (after discount).
The ARP
MAYkeep you safe but as the photos posted on our forum show, coaches burn from fridge fires with the ARP in the photo having failed to do it's job. They give a false sense of security.
The only way to be safe is to line the compartment with a fire restive material so the limited fire cannot extend beyond the compartment. See old posts for how to do it. Then a system like ARP may limit the damage to the fridge itself.
Pierce
I would suggest that the ARP controller protects against by far the most common cause of absorption refrigerator fires. All of them-- no.
When a cooling unit fails or there is significant blockage, boiler temperatures start to rise. The ARP cuts off the heat source before boiler temps become critical.
IMO, a worthwhile device with an absorption refrigerator.
FYI, FOT won't rebuild the six packs; they'll just replace the 2 o-rings that seal the valves to the manifold (they don't break down the valves themselves to replace plungers, springs, or internal seal). (unless of course you want to pay hundreds to replace entire solenoid valves - that I'm sure they'll do, at a cost of $100+/- per solenoid valve)
On air dryer, I think they only do "major" service (really a misnomer, as it's not "major"), which is just the desiccant canister. That's fine if you are at the maintenance interval in between swapping the unit with a remanufactured one, but at some point you'll want to do the entire unit to get new heater, etc. Would be well to inquire the charge to swap out the unit if you haven't done so in the past few years. Note that it's easily a DIY job.
They will sell you a new unit though. Two years ago I bought a complete front six pack from Foretravel for $635. HWH shipped it directly to me.
jor
Nacogdoches Motorhome Service has recently, call and ask. You might have to supply the rebuild kit.
How much for a new one? Oooo! $635! Glad I have my rebuild kits. A project for this summer.
I'm with you. I did rebuild the rear but I wanted to replace the front as it was in
bad shape. Still worked fine though. My other rigs' six pack were all in good shape and the rear one on this rig cleaned right up.
jor
Yeah I have both six packs ready to be rebuilt. Twig and I were going to do it here on the beach in Mexico but he left so I'll be doing it at some point.
with a coach that old the other thing you might want to look at as the shepherd steering box.
I also second the notion of replacing the shocks and airbags if they're original. I just replaced my shocks and my airbags are not that old and I noticed a big difference in the drive.
Bruce - a lot depends on your mechanical ability/interest and how you plan to use the coach. If you're planning multiples short-distance trips you can minimize the big things and deal with them as they occur since you won't be far from home.
We've owned our 2000 since 2017 so I'll speak to our experience of what we've done. We knew we'd be planning to travel 6-8,000 per year and wants to replace the items with the highest probability of failing due to age. Then we are religious with annual maintenance.
SAFETY ITEMS (regardless of distance)
1. Tires - at purchase ours were good til 2022-23. 6-7 years tops IMHO.
2. Brakes - If its never been done take a close look. you're likely to end up doing a brake job sooner than later if its never been done and you plan to put some miles on your coach. We totally rebuilt our brakes system (pads, turn rotors, replaced wheel bearing. Be sure you understand exactly where you are. A "renovation" can be expensive if you can find someone you trust to do the work...we did. Be sure to understand specific lubrication for brakes....ask if you're not sure.
3. Fuel Lines - IMHO a coach that's 11997 should have the lines replaced....end of life area if they haven't been done.
4. Basic Air Brake/Suspension System - be sure it works and leaks are minimal. Change the Air Dryer unless you KNOW its been done in the last 1-2 years. Replace annually for best security
5. Cooling System - make sure your radiator is sound and not leaking. Be sure coolant is up to level and when in doubt without records replaced coolant an filter (we replace filter annually
6. Have a clean air filter - we do ours annually
7. Know when you're tranny fluid was last changed - the right stuff lasts a long time...but you're rig could have tranny fluid from 1997...IMHO too long
8. Know when you're hydraulic fluid was last changed and if you don't know change it and record the date.
9. Generator - especially if you don't know it history, just go ahead and change the oil, filter, 2 fuel filters and air filter.
10. Be sure elec/propane items are serviced if present - refrigerator, furnace, hot water heater
11. Know your start and house batteries - how old? How long can you go before batteries need to be charged
For us these were the basics. No cosmetic/creature comfort items until mechanicals were sound. No solar/lithium batteries until we knew we would keep the coach and wanted the "freedom" for different kinds of hookups.
Probably more than you asked for but we love these older Foretravel's and realize we'll never spend enough on our coach, regardless of upgrades, to equal what a brand new coach of lesser quality/reliability costs.