How painful is it to get at the front six pack if I want to rebuild it? Is it fairly easy to drop that slide seal tank without a helper? The only place I have to work on it is an rv storage lot right now so I'd have to be sneaky about it. I can't get away with lying under the rig for hours obviously doing repairs that would make the coach inoperable.
The alternative is to pay a truck shop to put a new one in. I am less concerned about the money that would cost and more so making sure it is done right. Is our air system also commonly used in the trucking world? Said differently, can I trust a good truck shop with that job?
The front six pack is relatively easy to get to. Twig rebuilt his in place one solenoid at a time and that's what we were going to do on mine here. so you really don't have to pull the six pack out to rebuild them you can do it in place. The only issue is is that you're going to need to raise the coach and jack it and for that of course you're going to have to start it that might bring some attention the rest of the work can be done pretty much while you're underneath pulling one at a time inspecting and replacing all the gaskets and washers and o-rings.
I haven't done it myself yet only looked at the job. My guess is this everything came apart the way it was supposed to and you were able to do the job in place it would be a 2 to four hour job. of course with four travel sometimes I have to quadruple that number. but it shouldn't be that hard if you have the rebuild kit. But your coach will be immovable at that point. I say go for it if it's at a storage facility what do they care?
On my 2005 u270 it was extremely easy. Nothing else had to be remove. Maybe 1 hour to get it out, but I wasn't in a hurry and marked the block and double checked I had numbered it right.
On mine, if you stand by the front driver wheel and look toward the center of the coach you see the six pack.
Elliot, please call me. 7 one 3. 8 one 8 3234
Mine is like Kathy's. If you look right over the left front tire you see it hanging down. You can do them one at a time but if you have a corrosion issue as I did on my front one it becomes more difficult and would be much easier to handle with the entire manifold out. The manifold itself is attached to the frame with just two small bolts so it's easy to remove. Takes some time to label all the wires though. Here's a photo of mine looking over the left front tire and of my old one that was badly corroded.
jor
Remember to work safely - safety blocks and chocks, please :)
Working Safely around your Foretravel (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10632.0)
I considered replacing mine, but there is at least 2 different manifolds and probably more. Foretravel had 1 style in stock for 799.00. Mine was 1199.00 and not in stock. HWH said maybe 10 weeks. Considering how backed up they are, double that.
Using Tom's kit and doing it on the bench was easy and successful.
Just did my rear one, with Toms kit. Took all of 45 min. Did one at a time in coach.
Did the front one the same 1 yr ago, about 3/4-1 hr.
I also carry a spare,incase the solenoid goes bad (which I had happen)
As everyone mentioned, block the coach up, drain the air tanks.
Chris
Red Tractor and I (mostly him 😁) did both of mine in about 2hrs. Removed the front tank and unbolted the 6pack from the frame for better access. Zip tied them with different colors and switched them while the 6 pack hung by the other air lines. May take you longer since you haven't done it before but it wasn't hard.
Absolutely use the colored zip ties for marking the wires and tubing. I go through more of the colored ones than black.
Great tip, I've got them ordered. Just bought two kits from Tom too.
Thanks for the nudge to tackle this myself everyone.
I replaced the air fittings to the new push on. Very nice, but some of the hoses were too tight, now I will need to replace some of the hoses.
I wish you well with push on air fittings vs DOT compression fittings. Push on fittings are considered leaker by a number of folks I know. All the best
I've had good luck with these fittings on my crane dot approved.
Eaton Weatherhead 1868X6 Brass CA360 D.O.T. Air Brake Tube Fitting, Male... (https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-Weatherhead-1868X6-Fitting-Connector/dp/B00BKF9U5K/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Air+Brake+Fittings&qid=1617555481&sr=8-3)
Pushon DOT fittings work best when the tubing is straight, IOW when there are no bends near the fitting.
I still prefer compression fittings though.
Ldillow, one thing you might consider-- ANYTHING on the brake system that is not DOT approved could bite you--if you are in an accident and and they check the coach brake system and find non dot fittings could get expensive. Just saying
Chris
No worries everyone! The fittings are DOT compliant! Just a little bummed the hoses are so tight to begin with. If I would have checked for tightness prior to installing them on the removed sixpack I would have probably reused the 23 year old compression fittings. At least for now. Just informing anyone else that may think it is a good do idea as well.
That's what I did on mine front and back. I too would have replaced them if there were a bit more slack in the air lines. No leaks though on that old brass.
jor
Negligence is the magic word in my experience. As long as you can prove you were negligent your insurance covers you. Just ask my old landlord that my negligence bought a new kitchen for :))