I have finished my project, and the tool set is available. DSD sent them to me. With your request and his approval, I can send them directly to you. It is a very nice kit, and made the job much easier.
I was surprised to find that the worst parts of the bags were OPPOSITE the side that is exposed to the sun. A couple had the individual threads exposed and loose.
Rather than cutting off the ends of the supply lines, I drilled out the brass support tube in the new angle fittings. The old nut, seal and reinforcement fit in for a nice leak-free fit, with no worries of the line becoming too short.
The nut on one of the air bags seized half-way off. Of course it was the far side, on one of the bags without access to the opposite side. I was able to use a recip saw with a long metal-cutting blade to cut the stud between the metal bag crown and the mounting plate.
I removed the wheels for the job. No doubt the bags could be replaced with the wheels on, but I also unhooked the shocks bottoms and checked them, inspected the brake pins and pads, polished the aluminum wheels, patched a spot where a tire had worn through the wheel well, and did some checking around.
I had the chassis fully blocked, which I think was a mistake. "Next time" I will block just the axle I am working on. The disabled suspension put a lot of weight on the jack.
I bought one of these - glad I did: Amazon.com: ATD Tools 7229 Tire and Wheel Cart: Automotive (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7EO3DY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The "double ratchet" style of torque multiplier works great on the front wheels, but is useless on the duals, due to the distance from the lug to the handles. I bought one of those multipliers with the crank handle, and it worked great.
Some of the shock bolts were easy to remove with a breaker bar. One would not budge, one seized half way. I cut them off and used new hardware.
This is my wheel remover setup.
tools to R&R wheels (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31018.msg271508#msg271508)
I use the multiplier like you have with chucks setup have no problems--3/4" drive 12" long extension
Chris
I just did 2 front ones with shocks, and rear shocks only (rear bags are fine). I tell you it is so simple to remove the fenders. Nothing is glued on. Probably 5-10 minutes max to remove. 20 minutes to reinstall, including cleaning silicone, and resealing.
You also can clean, wire brush and paint stuff. The bags plates were crusty.
I did the 1st two front easy ones (rear fronts) with them on a year ago. The other front 2 bags I just did would have been impossible to get the air fitting out. As it was with the fenders off it was still a pain. Infact, the second bag I took off, I cut it off with a sawzall.
Chris
I just use a square pointed shovel. Works good to lift and rotate tire as needed. Easy to store too.
Scott
Yes if someone would want to use my airbag removal tools now or in the future pm me and will set up.
I used a shovel or a wrecking bar on the previous coach. An advantage of the ATD tool is that one can rotate the tire while it is on the tool, to fit the lugs to the holes. I probably would not have bought the tool, except I wanted to move the wheels to another spot to clean and polish them. AND I was doing all of them in a few days.
To wrestle a tire/wheel off and on I use a 2 wheeler hand truck. I do like the smaller sized units that are pictured that would be easier stashed in the coach.
I don't carry a spare so I would have to use a tire service on the road.
At home the 2 wheeled hand truck works and is nice to have for other purposes around the house.
I just loosen the nuts, jack the side up until the tire still barely touches the ground, remove the nuts then saw it back and forth several times until it clears the studs and then roll it to where I want it to go. Easy, easy, easy. Same to put it back on. And we don't move a wheel without having a spare in the compartment.
Pierce
This topic had the most relevant title regarding Air Bag Tools, so I am replying here.
I just finished replacing all 8 air bags over the weekend. I was able to complete it without removing the fenders or any tires. I did build the 2 ratcheting wrenches as Scott built originally. I don't think it would have been possible with out them particularly on the passenger front bag. I also followed Scott's lead and made a tool to fit over the 90 degree air fitting.
I would also say the following tools were helpful as well:
- 5/8" flare nut crows foot wrench. This makes removal of the air line from the backside air bags easier.
- 3/4" crows foot wrench. I had several bags where the lower nut was almost touching the frame making it impossible to fit a socket. This made it easy to loosen and tighten.
Also do you have a better pic of the fabricated tool to remove air fitting?
I agree that they can be done with the wheels on and I did the right front with the wheel and
fender on but never again. Pulling wheels is not a big deal for me and I pull the re wheels twice
a year to do snow tires and fronts once a year to check the brakes so I would do it then but as
they are all done I won't have to do it again. The only tool I made was one to take the fitting out.
The ratchet wrenches is a great idea.
For the ratcheting stubby wrenches:
2 of these: Sunex 97324A 1/2-Inch Drive 24-mm Jumbo Crowfoot Wrench - Open End Wrenches... (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKH9I0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - $16 for 2
1 1/8" ratcheting wrench. I bought a different brand but this is $26 and says 90-tooth
Jaeger 1 1/8 Inch TIGHTSPOT Ratchet Wrench with 90-Tooth Ratcheting Precision... (http://www.amazon.com/Jaeger-TIGHTSPOT-90-Tooth-Ratcheting-Precision/dp/B078WMXP85/ref=sr_1_4?crid=25MNAB3O8GJ1)
3/4 ratcheting wrench. $13
Jaeger 3/4 Inch TIGHTSPOT Ratchet Wrench with 90-Tooth Ratcheting Precision... (https://www.amazon.com/Jaeger-TIGHTSPOT-90-Tooth-Ratcheting-Precision/dp/B07BPQWGMB/ref=sr_1_4?crid=25MNAB3O8GJ1&th=1)
For the air fitting tool, I just scrounged what I had around. I started with 1" bar stock and shimmed it up internally until I had 9/16" internal width. Best to place an old fitting inside when welding it up to end up with a tight fit. Then welded a 1/2 nut on top so it ends up using the same 3/4" ratcheting wrench. Try to make it as short as possible for rotation but still allowing the potential of the tubing ferule.
Length is critical on the wrenches. Locking extensions really make it easier to use. Doesnt fall apart. The small breaker bar allows reversing motion way easier than a ratchet. Carefull using hat tool not to pinch your fingers against side wall while using. Clean up tap reduces work on large friction lock nuts.
I used your measurement of 3 1/2" inch center to center when making up the wrenches. Couldn't agree more on the locking extensions. My longer set were the wobble type that firm up when you insert fully. They come apart too easily and were the source of a good amount of frustration. When you wedge you body into some of these positions its difficult to retrieve a dropped tool.
I used 3 1/2" center to center for both. That worked fine on most. On the passenger side front bag the 1 1/8 wrench only allowed 1 click of the ratchet mechanism. It's possible that slightly shorter may have allowed another click. Try to buy one with the most clicks per revolution.
Here is the tool I made about 10 years ago. It looks to be about the same 3 1/2" center to center for the 3/4"/19mm nut. I had to raise it and relocate it for each partial turn so it took an extra minute or two. The shortened ratchets Scott made are the ticket.
Pierce