So, our first trip longer than 3 hours is coming up the end of this month. We will traveling from ATL to Nacodoches for the first ever GV reunion. We've owned our '93 U280 just under a year. She's getting new tires and new fluids and filters. Is there a check list of things to check/look for before a long trip? It's an 8.3 36' coach, a little over 100k miles, she drives great and looking forward to seeing her birthplace. Excited and nervous to be going, I'm still learning about this, 1st RV, still working, hoping to retire next year. We've been to 2 rallies and have met great new friends and look forward to the friends we haven't met. I've seen wonderful advice here on the forum and enjoy perusing the topics. I will have many specific questions I'm sure, for now this is just a general plea for advice.
Welcome! There are a few things that we do whenever we take the coach out. We have a '93 U300GV.
Check air pressure in all tires
Start engine and air the coach up monitor air pressure garage to make sure all is well
Make sure coach is up off the tires.
Test brakes
Check oil and coolant levels
Walk around coach to make sure everything is zipped up and disconnected.
Inside make sure everything is put away and doors and cabinets are latched
Have your route planned so you can avoid any distractions while driving.
Forgot to mention, we try to stick with 300 miles a day and/or stop for the day by 3:00PM.
Welcome to the group,
With you most likely headed this way on I-20 when you get to Pearl MS. get in the slow lane and drive about 45 MPH and let everyone pass. Continue this till you get past the Natchez Trace. The road has some wavy sections that can and have popped out a windshield. Have a great trip, don't over drive your comfort level, stop early in the afternoon to have time to relax for the evening.
Pamela & Mike
An emergency service like Coach-Net is also a good idea.
*We might see you in NAC. Safe travels.
Photo below of the factory. The visitor parking spots all have water and 50 amp hookups, but no sewer connection. Depending on when you get there and how many attendees, it is possible some coaches will be parked in "overflow" parking somewhere else on the property. The dump station is shown, along with red arrows showing the traffic flow through the lot.
When we get to the factory for a extended stay, we always make a initial pass through the lot, watching for available parking slots, and stop at the dump station. Dump tanks. Then exit onto the street, circle around the building, and come in the entrance for a second time. Get parked and leveled. Hook up water and shore power. Turn on your air conditioners (it will be hot). If you pull a towd, the established procedure is to park your car nose-to-nose in front of your coach. Do not try to park next to your coach - there is not enough room between the parking slots to allow that.
Finally, grab a cool beverage, get out and join the friendly discussion group outside that is probably already in progress!
PS: If your travel with a dog, watch out for the numerous grass burrs (stickers) when letting the dog walk in any of the grassy areas to do their thing. This also applies to most rest area stops in Texas!
Pet Peeve of mine: Download the morning brake check for CDL licensed drivers. That being said, a couple of years ago I sent my partner to Seminole, Texas to survey and bring home our new to us U225. I included a 3/4" wrench with the instructions "When you need it, call me." If I had ridden with him that many hours I would have ended up in hospital. When he arrived, I bit my tongue on the shiny sidewalls and waited for the story. Think Birmingham, Alabama road construction, a GPS, and poorly marked detours.
You have a fine traveling machine. Don't allow the "need to be there" to spoil your trip. If something happens along the way, well, the adventure begins when something goes wrong.
Enjoy the journey.
Art & Lynn
Take money and a really good credit card..............................all "just in case"
Everyone is spot on.
Can only add that we travel with a full tank of water.
See ya'll in NAC
For us living in the Sierras, that's 800+ lbs up and down each hill so we carry just enough water to wash dishes, etc until we get to our campsite destination. The West has few flat areas for very long so keep most tanks as low as possible with the exception of fuel in the summer to keep the diesel temperature down.
Pierce
Sage advice Pierce for mountainous areas but our main travels are the windy plains.
I'll keep the ballast.
Study wind and weather patterns before travel.
Unrelated, finally pick up a Pro Link 9000 off Ebay, no DDEC II cartridge yet, still looking for one priced a little better.
Frank
The cartridges for cars are a dime a dozen but for Cummins, CATs, Detroits and Meritor, they are usually expensive. A cartridge for DDEC I & II will work but the cartridges for DDEC II & III will do a couple more things. Once of my Pro Link readers is later than the other and has nice back lighting. If you need an adapter to the plug under the dash, they are cheap.
The cartridges may have several different brand names like MPSI, Kent Moore, Detroit, Snap-On but as long as they have DDEC II as part of the description, they will work fine. Jerry may be able to supply the manual or I can send an electronic version. You WILL need the manual to figure out the sequence of buttons to push to get all the information, test the injectors and get the fast idle. A cartridge under $100 would be a good deal.
Some people have purchased a Chinese version with all the engines built in and a computer out on it. I know it's easy to find one that works for the Detroit 60 series DDEC IV but I've never found details for the earlier engines and don't want to have to figure it out long distance.
Pierce
Take a gallon of oil, a gallon of antifreeze, some method for removing bugs from the windshield, and avoid if at all possible pulling into a campground before dark. I've recently made the run to Portland Oregon from Texas three times in the last two years. 400 miles is a long hard day, 300 is a more comfortable distance. When you pull out of a service station, grocery store, be very careful about a dip. What you navigate easily in a car can cost you money in a Foretravel. Good luck and have fun.
I second this little gem of advice.
I swap the fuel filters and get a spare set before any long trip.
Our coach is plugged in so I usually check the panel and look at the voltages, inverter and charger status.
After that I check for drops/leaks under the coach for oil or any other fluid. Usually find one drop from engine oil breather. Open compartments and look and smell for something not right.
Then check fluids on gen, engine, aqua hot. Tires come next and if all is well we start the coach when we are ready. Then check for leaks again.
Will see you at Nac.
Check all your hydraulic lines before leaving as they are only single jacket and if they rub against each other, they will eventually chafe through and you will lose the fans and oil will be everywhere. Carry a couple of gallons for the hydraulic system
When you fuel, do it in the morning when you are sharp. I've seen quite a few fueling and backing accidents in the afternoon. And yes, get to your campground before dark.
Don't move the coach without adjusting the mirrors. Adjust them if you need to when backing.
Don't back without a spotter. We have GMRS radios we use when backing. Spotter should look up for branches also.
Watch the blind spot in a GV when changing lanes to the right. Extra camera is good to install for the area under the right mirror.
Watch YouTube videos on how to back into your campsite. Good tips here.
If you raise an antenna, put a note/flag on the instrument wheel so you don't drive off with it up. My neighbor didn't and tore it off the roof............twice.
Pierce
Caution: if plugged in and voltage shows excellent= around 13.2 VDC that does NOT tell you that the batteries are good. A good inverter/charger or converter can maintain that voltage with pretty well shot/totally out of water batteries.
Personal experience: Years ago, bought a Catalina 350 in Melbourne, FL in partnership with my brother (also long-time sailor). Ya, a come down from the many miles we did on our Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37' but the Catalina 350 actually exceeded our expectations, and better fit one of the requirements: two separate cabins/two couples boat.
Two 4D batteries, Balmar 120 amp alternator with Balmar 3 stage regulator (ya, a very good setup). Had been plugged in by previous owner for months (don't really know how long) before Dianne and I picked it up to bring it back to Texas. Voltage read 13.3 VDC. Put supplies onboard, started right up and motor-sailed down to Vero Beach. Used one of the city's moorings (no shore power) for the night. Ran very little 12 VDC overnight.
Next morning, no start on the engine. No, can't "pull start" a 4 cylinder Kobota engine. Voltmeter read 8 VDC. On two "fully charged 4D batteries"??? Got jump from neighboring boat. Continued on to Indian Town Marina (our go to marina on the Okeechobee Waterway), with alternator giving us 13.5VDC for the 8+ hour leg (ya. lock involved). Plugged for the night. So, sure the engine started in the morning.
Called brother who knows boats and mechanical systems and had more phone access/"on line" access than we did while transiting "no cell phone coverage" areas of the "swamp". Two new batteries waiting for us in two days. NO anchoring out/NO shore power until then.
New batteries in-- on to Texas. Anchored out most every night when not on the move/making Gulf crossings. Overnight voltage never lower than 12.5 VDC.
All very excellent advice from a number of seasoned motor coach travelers.
I would add that if you are taking a toad with you, make sure you're hooked up properly. Check the coach and the toad for proper operation of brake lights and turn signals. If you have the original headlights in your foretravel, don't drive at night.
Don't rely on Google maps. Get a good motorcoach GPS like a Garmin. I use both. The Google lets me know if there's speed traps or traffic ahead, while the Garmin will let me know if there's a problem with my route for the length, width and height of the coach.
While I understand a full tank of water for ballast on really windy areas, for what you are doing a third of a tank would be sufficient.
Really though double check that everything is closed and locked. Nothing more irritating than driving down the road and hearing things crash and bang and not being able to get up and check it out.
Above all relax. It's a big ass thing to be driving around, but the more you drive it the better you'll get at it and the more comfortable you'll be with it. If something doesn't look right double check it. If someone tells you to do something that you don't think is the right thing, like oh yeah your coach will make that turn, check it out for yourself. If you're blocking somebody don't get excited take your time. It's your home, and you're the one that's going to have to be paying to have it repaired.
They truly are wonderful machines when taking care of properly. Don't go too fast and don't go too slow.
And above all have a good time!
Totally agree with above "don't get excited" comment. When we bought our coach the prior owner passed on this nugget of wisdom:
"If you get jammed up in a tight spot and the other drivers are honking and getting mad at you...just ignore them. Take your time and think through your next move carefully. Don't take a chance on doing something that makes the situation worse. You will never see the other drivers or meet them again for the rest of your life, so who gives a _ _ _ _ what they think?"
I like to start the Detroit first, then the generator. That way I can hear it running and know that all is well back there. The generator is so close to the front that, even though it is a much smaller engine, it sounds like it makes more noise.
We try not to go over 250 miles on travel days. We once did nearly 500 in one day to get in ahead of a snow storm.
Forgot to say to drill the utility drawer above the propane tank to the side through the steel so you can put a pin in it to keep it from sliding out. Our banged on the compartment door until it opened like a wing while crossing the Golden Gate. One other time too before I got smart and made a locking pin for it. We were in the slow lane next to where people walk.
Check your air cleaner before you head out on a big trip.
Carry extra belts and a least two sets of fuel filters and know how to change them without introducing air into the system so it won't start and you melt a battery terminal or fry the starter.
Flip the dead bolt on your door while underway. Keeps anyone from falling against it and flying out and keeps a low life trying to get in at at stop sign in a bad area. We stopped at a bar called the T.... Twister for the night in the parking lot just across the border. Sure glad the door was locked.
Inexpensive digital plug in voltmeters on the side panel lighter plug and on the dash plug will keep you informed on house/engine batteries and warn of problems ahead.
Blow up your electrical schematics at a print shop and carry them in a mailing tube. You will have a tough time reading the print in low light otherwise. Thanks again to Bill Chaplin for the great tip.
Pierce
Get an infrared thermometer and check the temperature of the brakes/ hubs and tires at the first stop of the day after 50 to 100 miles. This is a quick way to make sure your tires are not low on pressure and the your brakes are not dragging or bearings over heating.
FWIW I use a tire pressure gauge. After walking Duke, the dog, and after having breakfast and coffee, so I have the best chance of getting back up off the ground.
Mikerox, I forgot to mention in Lynn's first trip driving the U225back from Texas: Atlanta and all of those confusing demand pricing "shortcuts" around traffic. At night.