If your coach has the "dumb" steering wheel (all it does is turn the front wheels and toot the Hadleys) and you ever wondered how the telescoping mechanism works, perhaps this post will provide some clarity.
The three photos below show the components of the telescoping column mechanism.
The black horn button/locking ring on the steering wheel is bolted to the threaded end of shaft #1.
When you turn the black locking ring, you are turning shaft #1. The locking ring is free to rotate through about 100 degrees or so - until one of the aluminum "spokes" hits the iron stop tang shown in photo #1.
The stop tang is held in position by the large nut which also secures the steering wheel to the splined shaft #2.
When shaft #1 is turned fully counter clockwise (locking ring spoke hits the stop tang), then shaft #2 is free to move up and down.
When shaft #1 is turned fully clockwise (locking ring spoke hits the stop tang), then shaft #2 is locked in the position it holds at that time.
Shaft #2, when unlocked, can extend out until it hits a hard mechanical internal stop that limits upward motion (max extension).
Shaft #3 is supported in place at the top by a heavy "C" clip and a caged ball bearing (partially obscured by grease). Shaft #3 is the outer steering shaft that transmits the steering wheel motion down to the steering gear through several U-joints (at least 3 U-joints IIRC...possibly more). The U-joints can be greased, however some of the Zerk fittings are almost impossible to access with a standard grease gun.
For more detailed photos of the disassembled steering column on a 1993 U280 follow the link below:
Grand Villa Steering Wheel Removal (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29695)
Thanks Chuck, mine is a dumb wheel. but what locks the telescope in place where you want it?
I don't know how the lock works. As shown in the photos, when I had our steering column apart I could easily turn shaft #1 with two fingers. By turning it with my fingers I could lock and unlock the sliding shaft #2 very easily. I don't
think the lock operates on friction (but I could be wrong). It felt to me more like I was moving some sort of "teeth" or "dogs" located inside shaft #2 that mesh together when the shaft is locked in position. Sorry I can't explain it better than that.
I would
really like to see a "exploded" view of the telescoping shaft moving parts to better understand how the lock functions.
The steering shaft assembly was
probably manufactured by Douglas AutoTech Corp but their web site is not helpful.
Steering column (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34218.msg314260#msg314260)
Douglas Autotech Corporation (http://www.douglasautotech.com)
Ours does not really "lock" into place when in the raised position. Don't know if it supposed to ,I think I'd almost prefer it did not.
I don't really push down on it when driving it so I've never noticed it moving. Maybe during a hard stop or ( god forbid ) an accident you'd want it to compress.
Or... mines out of adjustment and it's something else to fix.
Steering Column manufacturer (information over a decade old but still may be good):
Douglas Auto Tech, Bronson MI. 800 773-1440
Well, now you've got me curious so I'll have to go out and play with our wheel today. It sounds like you drive with the wheel raised up? I am just the opposite - I drive with it all the way down. I guess that may be why I have never really noticed how "positive" the lock is. Mine may act exactly like yours does. We'll see...I'll check back later today with my results.
One thing I did not mention about the telescoping parts - there is also a fairly powerful coil spring included in the action. I believe this spring is supposed to "assist" the operator when
raising the wheel to a higher position. When I unlock my steering column it will pop up
quite vigorously to the fully raised position. Caught me by surprise the first time I tried it! If you follow the sequence of photos in my other long "steering column" thread (link below) you will see where the big spring is located in the assembly. The spring is also a part of the horn activation electrical circuit, so it does double duty.
Grand Villa Steering Wheel Removal (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29695)
Yes, I'm 6-4 and have the truckers air seat ( retrofitted )all the way back so the wheel is all the way extended. I think maybe Bob is correct and it's supposed to give if hit. I'll live with it
Thanks to all
Well, I just went out and played with our telescoping steering wheel. This is how our wheel works. The locking ring moves very smoothly, with minimal effort, from one stop to the other going both ways. I get no sensation like I am "tightening" something or putting tension on something as I turn it clockwise. It just feels like it is moving from one well-oiled position to another.
When I move the locking ring from "locked" toward the "unlocked" position, my steering column remains in the set position until I reach about 1/2 of the available locking ring movement, then the wheel releases and pops up to the top of its travel.
My column will lock at any point from bottom to top of the available travel. Once the locking ring is gently turned all the way to the hard stop going clockwise, my steering column is firmly locked in position. I tried it in several different positions. I literally put my whole meagre body weight (170 lbs) on the steering wheel and the wheel would not move downward even a tiny bit. It is LOCKED.
I don't know what the deal is with columns that act differently. If you are happy with the way your telescoping column works, then that's all that matters. If not, I can't think of any way to adjust it. Sorry.
There must be an adjustment somewhere but I'm ok with it as is, It does take a LOT of pressure to get it down.
What I do need to deal with someday is the locks on the tilting mechanism. I am able to tilt the SW more than it was designed to. I don't think it causes any harm but I do like to tilt it one more click than normal. I'm just hoping that in doing so I'm not "bending" turn signal & cruise control wiring more than I should.
I suppose I could try a little JB weld to keep the stops in place.
On our coach, I can only use 2 of the steering wheel "tilt" positions, out of a possible 7 available positions built into the column. Mine has a black metal limiter stop held in place by a large bolt.
Some of my photos in my other thread show this stop:
Grand Villa Steering Wheel Removal (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29695.msg252946#msg252946)
Yep. I have the same black bolt. If I could get it to stay in that is. May need use a thread cleaner or tap to a bigger bolt
Thank you Chuck for the write up, I'll be delving into my steering column when we get home. When I was extending, the wheel came up too fast and now, no horn no cruise so probably a ground wire etc. As we are sitting here at 7,400 feet and 73 degrees with an unobstructed view of the great sand dunes it'll wait till we get home.
No cruise: I'm not much help. Check the fuse under the lift-up dash pad? The wires from the cruise control stalk are buried behind the plastic "beauty panels" on the lower steering column.
No horn: First and easiest thing to check is the yellow wire directly under the horn button. You'll see it in the photos in my other thread (link in Reply #9 above). That yellow wire has a habit of breaking off at the crimp connector, or pulling out of the connector. I reinforced the wire with heat shrink tubing after mine failed. Pry the horn button up carefully with a thin (dull) knife blade or thin screw driver to check the wire.