I couldn't figure out a good search term for this, so I apologize in advance if this has been covered...but I'm looking to pull some wire from the engine to the dash. I'm sure there's a thread around here somewhere that shows the best locations and route.
Thanks!
There is a bundel under the dash cover that goes to the engine bay, I think it 8 unused wires...
Spare wires (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28448)
Unfortunately, the wire I'm going to run is type-k thermocouple specific wire and cannot be connected to any other type of wire, so I must run this wire from back to front.
You will need to drop down one side of the "trays" in the basement compartments and then fish at front and back from compartments to "open areas".
Not really that bad a job-- goes pretty quickly with two people and something to use as a fish.
Or use one of the spare wires to pull the new wire. You can also pull another spare wire to replace the one you use as your puller if you want.
To find a loose wire just lightly tug on one and have someone feel for the tug. Hopefully they're not bundled and twisted or tied together. If so then see Brett's post above.
VERY likely zip ties will make using existing wires to pull new ones impossible.
Totally agree-- while pulling that one pull an extra. When I did it, I also pulled a 6 conductor/14 gauge trailer wire for future projects.
When I changed my fuel lines I pulled 4 extra wire to the storage bay and from the storage bay to the back I pull a heavy
string incase I ever want to pull wire or wires to the rear.
SIL, I like Brett's idea. If you can wait till we get together again I'll give you a hand. Jim.
Question, has anyone run a fish tape through the main frame tube to see if it will go from rear to front? I have not tried yet, just curious.
There was a post years ago on using a plastic rod pulling fuel line from the tank to the open area at the transmission.
Keith,
Where in the engine bay are you going?
It's not proving to be a straight shot like I was hoping, so maybe I will save this one for now. I would like to get that EGT gauge in though.
I tried poking my wire fish tape through the big square tube that went all the way to the back, but it didn't get far. The engine mounting bolts go through that piece of tube and stopped me dead. Steel fish tape doesn't bend both directions well.
Wiring up a thermocouple that is drilled/tapped into the exhaust manifold. I've got 50' of wire though, so I have some room to route it where it needs to go.
This is what 2 members did to pull fuel lines through the chase. Do a search and you might find the post. They changed fuel lines in one day. They use a longer one from HD I believe. I see a 33ft is available also in the link.
11' Fiberglass Running Wire Cable Coaxial Electrical Fish Tape Pull Push... (https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Running-Cable-Coaxial-Electrical/dp/B07519CLJX/ref=asc_df_B07519CLJX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216506979975&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12263316095449117273&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022653&hvtargid=pla-362775615011&psc=1)
No, it is not a straight shot.
But, following the wires that already run from engine room into wet bay, it really isn't that difficult. You can fish from the engine room or compartment forward of the wet bay.
Been there, done that.
Less elegant but easy...
On a previous coach, I pulled the wire taut against the underside and covered it with metal duct tape.
It is a 3D solution. Tough to go from the dash to anywhere else. So think in 3D.
From inside the dash to the left side then up behind the front of the drivers side window trim then across through the front space.
Then back through the upper pass side cabinets into the refrig space, and down. You may need to go through the floor into the basement space or there may be a wire chase along the floor/wall back to under the wardrobe. There is an under the floor (in the floor) wire space the goes from the wardrobe diagonally into the space at the foot of the bed, yours may have the sqme on the opposite corner.
From there into the engine bay.
Quad Camera install (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42234.msg423983#msg423983)
Could run thru upper extrusion. Just have to open end up in the back. Straight shot front to rear
Scott
Note spare pink string. Also used to back up if caught up. Leave for future
I was able to find where a bunch of harnesses go through the floor about where the engine meets the trans. It goes right up under the bed. There's also a mass of wires that goes forward from the bed area, down the passenger side. Might have to try pushing the fish through there first...if not, the upper extension might be the way to go.
FYI in case you're not that familiar with using a fish, if it has a hook on the end tape it up so it can't snag onto a wire or tyrap when you're pushing it through.
It's really tricky to get a fish tape from the closet to the space at the foot of the bed. It would much easier to go the
way Brett suggested.
You will never know until you try it in your coach. I have pulled many wires through there going both ways. Pull a 1/8" cord through with plenty left at both ends. Pull your wire through using wire pulling lube making sure that the extra cord remains at both ends. You can reuse the cord over and over. A small thermostat wire should be easy.
I got the fish tape though and now that you mention it I hope I left a string in there.
When I put my rear camera and I went through the channel along the upper driver side. I ran a fish down through it wasn't hard. It comes out in the compartment right above the driver's seat just aft of the TV compartment. I had to go from the rear TV compartment into the overhead bins by drawing a small hole but it's not noticeable. Then I ran the wire underneath the overhead bins driver side to the rear bins above the headboard and then out to the back camera. Don't think it took me that long to do that and I did leave additional wire in the channel for future use. The other thing would be to put the cameras up on the roof, run the wires along the roof covering it with the roof tape, can't remember its name right now. And then coming in through the roof into the overhead compartment above the windshield and then down the side into the dash. There are things that penetrate the roof so as long as you sealed it well with a device made for that it wouldn't leak and the wires would be covered so you wouldn't trip over them. Might have to think about channels for order coming off the air conditioners to get past the wire. That also would be a relatively easy job. Fishing a wire through the central bundle of fuel hoses wires and other stuff going through the bays would not be my idea of a fun time. After having taken those off once to redo the fuel lines I don't want to ever have to do that again. Getting them down is easy. Getting them back up wasn't so easy. I was by myself and I struggled to get them secured. You're experience may be different of course.
Yes, that channel/beam works great when coming from high in back to high in front.
But, from low (engine room) to low (dash) probably best to just use the usual basement route like all the OE wires and hoses.
For all that want to install engine exhaust temp gauge at dash:
There is a very good Pyrometer / EGT / Exhaust Gas Temperature / that uses regular copper wires from engine to dash, INSTEAD of K-thermocouple steel wires.
Keith, before moving forward on your wire pull, recommend reading our post from 7 years ago.
Digital Pyrometer & Boost Gauges - VEI Systems (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=20537.msg149993#msg149993)
Features & Functions:
Exhaust-gas temperature gauges are susceptible to many sources of error due to the nature of the sensor-probe signals, which are very low voltage (in the order of millivolts), and since the temperature of the reference junction (typically where the probe connects to the gauge) needs to be accurately determined. Our gauge and matching probe comes with a controller that amplifies the probe's signal output near the source, and places a temperature sensor at the reference junction of probe. The result is a much more accurate EGT monitor!Range: 1800 degrees Fahrenheit or 1000 degrees Celcius
User-settable bargraph type (bar or dot mode)
User-settable bargraph scale
User-settable peak indicator mode
12-segment bargraph AND 3-digit numeric display
Park-light dimmer
User-settable day and night intensities (9 levels each)
Sensor included:
SEN-TCI
V1 Series Pyrometer/Exhaust-Gas Temperature Monitor - VEI Systems (http://www.veisystems.com/ws/v1-series-single-gauges/32-v1-series-pyrometerexhaust-gas-temperature-monitor-.html)
BTW, years ago we ran couple dozen wires all at one time from engine for future use. Some twisted pair for shunts, some coax, jacketed and different sizes of single wires. Laid them all on ground parallel to each other Identified them at either end, made a paper wiring drawing, and pulled them from engine to front left corner where they could be fed up to dash. Did terminate a few wires at our curbside house battery bay. Started wire run at top center rear firewall where OEM hoses & cables are run. Worked cables forward by working up on ceiling of each bay.
I've got a inquiry to see if they still sell a single EGT seems like all the gauges I could find were dual.
Scott
VEI has single gauge EGT.
I get mine from Banks and they sell whatever you want.
Johnh
You could use a 3 wire RTD instead of a thermocouple. Then you could use existing spare wires from the engine bay to the dash.
If you already have the gauge and thermocouple then getting the wire pulled SHOULD be much easier than replacing a fuel line. 😁
Hope you get lucky.