Changing from snow tires to summer tires. I sharing this technique to install tires I learn over 50 years ago.
The first picture I'm rocking the tire back and forth to push the tire in. Then I hold the tire vertical and put
the pry bar off middle about 4 inches and left arm stabilizes the tire and then I lift with the bar and by
twisting the bar I can rotate the tie so I can line up the bolt hole and then I just pop the tire on. I can rotate
the tire easily as far as I need to quite easily. I find taking the tire off is the hard part but the last tire I used
the bar at a 45 degree angle and was able to twist bar to remove the tire. I will try it again next winter when
putting on the snow tires and will post how it works.
You sir are an inspiration 🙂. Love the suspenders too!
Sir what did you use to raise coach. Where did you position Jack.
What did you use to remove lug. Will you use anti seize? Torque 3/4 wrench?
Thanks Mark
There's a photo around here somewhere (more than 5 years ago, I believe) of a neat tool someone uses to deal with the large, heavy tires. Think a kind of wheeled tire fork/dolly. I'm trying to find it. Ring a bell, anyone?
ETA - here ya go tools to R&R wheels (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31018.msg271508#msg271508)
And if you're handy Redneck tire handler (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16300.0)
I like those shiny wheels.
So you have 4 extra ?
Northerntool.com has them, search for wheel handlers.
I just jack the side I want to remove the tire on until the tire just touches the ground and then saw the tire back and forth with the bottom leaning out to remove, leaning in to replace. Leaves no Alcoa aluminum on threads. Use anti-seize always and torque multiplier 10 cranks on the handle to start to remove, HF electric impact to finish removing and partially replacing. 4 foot combination breaker bar with pipe and bathroom scale to replace and torque. No anti-seize on mating surfaces.
No covers on any of the lug nuts as water collects and rusts threads.
No matter how tight, the TM will remove the nuts or break the stud.
No stainless covers on the back as multiplier won't fit and you can't remove axles to tow without removing the cover.
Pierce
I have a 20 ton jack. Do one side at a time and place the jack under the strut hanger. I block the rear of the coach
for safety. I use a Milwaukee Fuel I/2 inch drive impact which breaks the nuts loose with no problem. I don't use
neverseize on wheel studs and use it on everything else. I have a 3/4 drive torque wrench which my son helps
me with as I'm too light or I have to pull up. The shiny wheels turned out not too bad but when they are off
next winter I will do a better job. I have the front ones to do next.
Pierce I use the nut covers as they they keep the nuts nice and dry.
The last time I pulled the caps off, several had trapped quite a bit of water and the threads were rusty so I used a wire wheel and liquid wrench on them before I removed the nuts. If the coach sits for long in the rain, some will fill with water, others will be dry. If the coach is driven on treated roads, the rust/corrosion is worse. Not a problem on a OTR vehicle but most RVs sit for quite a while in winter.
Pierce
I use the coach more in the winter than the rest of the year. The Dynasty I had and the Fortravel both had nut covers
and the nuts and axle hub look almost new. The Monaco once I left the nut covers off until I did the second torque
and they were already getting rusty so I now do the extra work.
I'm using a similar but different. Flat bladed shovel. A good one. Slides nice on the ground, easy to rotate tire. Fits under the lip of the tire real easy. The bend in the middle is just what you need. Tire dollies are a pain on irregular surfaces. With weight on them there stuck. Shovel is Easy to move around and store.
Scott