Have any of you come up with a trick to easily change the inline fuel filter between the generator and tank? I tried draining the fuel through the bottom plastic valve but it appears to keep drawing fuel via suction. Yes the tank is close to full.
I don't like the idea of pinching the fuel line to try to stop the flow. So my guess is to wait til there is 1/2 a tank or less of fuel. Any other tricks out there?
Thanks
David Moss
David, I use "Hose Pinch Plyers" all the time to stop fuel flow when servicing Aqua Hot diesel burners. They look like vice grip plyers but have articulating jaws that are nearly 2 inches long to keep from harming the hose. No problems with these plyers in 10+ years.
Think if you hold/secure the hose end higher then the tank it will not leak.
Google "pinch pliers" or "pinch clamps" and see hundreds of different design tools to temporarily shut off flow through flexible tubing. Used correctly will not damage tubing.
I have a tool I "liberated" from college chemistry class many decades ago. It has two adjustable gap aluminum arms that apply gradually increasing pressure using a clever ratchet mechanism. Works on tubing up to about 2" diameter. I can't even find a image of it on Google search, so it must be pretty obscure.
You could blow fairly low pressure air into the end as you pull it off, sending the fuel back to the tank. No more siphon. 5 psi would be plenty.
Does anyone pull the end off the Bendix type electric fuel pump to clean it? Didn't think so. No inline generator filter on Powertechs with this electric pump.
Pierce
I installed a ball valve to shut off the fuel
Yes, the valve is the best solution. Here is how I did it. The arrow to the electric pump shows the removable bottom (5/8" wrench) so you can remove/clean the fuel pump filter. The filter in the bag is the spare for the pump and naturally, the forward arrow shows the all stainless ball valve I installed. Second photos shows the sliding locking tab on the stainless ball valve.
Pierce
DJ,fill out the signature so we know exactly which generator and coach you have,will help with the question.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.First I will look for the hose pinch pliers. I thought about pinching the hose but did not want to do any damage to the hose with conventional vise grips.
And second putting in a valve is the way to go for sure. Do any of you happen to know the line ID (10K power tech) at the separator.
And I did add the coach info that I thought had done long ago.
Hose is 5/16" ID on ours. Foretravel had installed 1/4" fittings at the generator and 5/16" at the tank on just the supply line. Don't know how they made that mistake. Any good quality fuel line will be fine. I don't think bio-diesel. has any effect as the OEM fuel line degraded from the outside in on the generator. We have bio in California and our main fuel lines are fine almost 30 years later. Fingers crossed.
The clamps you see in the photo are some that I happened to have. Fuel injection clamps with the radius on the edges are the best as they don't damage the hose but make a secure connection and reduce the possibility of air entering the system.
In the photo, the fuel goes from the tank to the fuel pump and the new aftermarket filter is pressurized (electric pump supplies about 4 psi). I didn't want to take any chances of air entering there. The supplied fittings were metric and didn't seal well at all so I tapped and used NPT fittings and then vacuum tested it. There is nothing but negative reviews on the filters online but it's all in the fittings. So many users could not start their vehicle after installing the new filter. One mistake in manufacturing them really hurt their reputation. But you have to add at least $10 to the price for the NPT fittings plus tap if you don't have one.
Pierce
On the 2004 the fuel line should be 3/8 inch id