I went to open the engine access, but the gate won't lift.
I was taught, by my father, never to force anything.
I feel as though, if I exert too much force, I will break the upper pivot arms .
There are two, barrel shaped sleeves, in the upper bar. Picture enclosed.
I have greased both of them, although the zerk on the left broke off when removed the grease gun. I need to know how to replace the zerk.
I hoped the grease would help, but it hasn't.
I am thinking that I may have to torch the sleeve to try and get movement, but fear burning something. I would get a metal sheet to protect the coach, if that is the way to go.
I also looked at disconnecting the lifting arms, but the door would be very heavy to handle.
I am at a loss.
Any suggestions?
This is the tool I use. I would close and open the top several times to see if it will release from the bottom hooks.
Amazon.com: ABN Grease Fitting Tool - 4 Way Grease Fittings Tool Easy Out... (https://www.amazon.com/ABN-4-Way-Grease-Fitting-Tool/dp/B01GGLZ1YG)
The upper bar with the zero fittings doesn't move.
it is frozen.
If I try and lift the door, it puts lots of stress on the arms that these sleeves are welded to. It looks like I can snap them off.
Do you have any Corrosion X or other penetrating oil? If not see if your can borrow some or buy some if you are near a hardware store.
Also push the top back in and see if the rod is turning, you might have something else hanging it up.
Have some.
Tried it two days ago.
If nothing else works you could try putting some penetrating oil in a grease gun and injecting that into the zerk. WD40 comes in a liquid form as does a few others. Let it sit a couple days then try it.
Or maybe use a heat gun on the joints?
If the penetrating oil fails to loosen the sleeve enough to open the bonnet, you could remove the grill. Then remove the 3 screws attaching the stuck one, so you can open the bonnet to get better access to work on it. It might be possible to get it moving by continuing the penetrating oil, and using a soft bar (aluminum or brass) and a mallet, to get it moving laterally on the tube. It will only move laterally 1/16-1/8", since there's a couple small welds on the tube to locate the sleeves. Applying heat is also an option. Just be careful not to roast the fiberglass.
As a last resort, you could slit the sleeve with a cutoff wheel on a small angle grinder. A PO did this on one of ours, AFTER they bent the chit out if it by opening the bonnet while the sleeve was stuck. Making it right was a real PITA, so avoid this if at all possible.
You might be able to replace the zerk with another press fit one, if the hole isn't enlarged much. Ours was too loose, so I drilled/tapped the original hole for a 1/4"-28 zerk. You,ll have to drill through the tube to do this, but if you rotate the sleeve/bracket so the holes don't line up when the bracket is mounted, most of the grease will go between the sleeve and tube. This worked well for me.
Greg
EDIT: The 3 screws holding the sleeve/bracket might be accessed through by going through the opened bed. If so, you could avoid having to remove the grill.
The zerk on the right is in good shape, and I put a lot of grease in it.
I thought I had a lot of grease in the left zerk, which is the one that broke off. It will have to be drilled out. The special tool mentioned above looks like you manually remove the broken piece. I will try and drill it out, if I can. Otherwise, I will order it, although the reviews aren't great. Then I can try and get more penetrating oil in the sleeve. Right now, the oil is penetrating horizontally. Not good.
Thanks for the help.
If there is a Harbor Freight or Fastenal near you get a left handed drill bit to drill out the fitting,a small easy out is similar to the tool.Grease and WD-40 wil not loosen rust,find a penetrant like PB blaster that will work on heavy rust.
It would help is you used "something" to dig out as much of the hardened grease as possible and kept the pocket filled with some sort of oil. As others have said, tapping - gently - side to side will help free up the joint. It may take days.
I have been using that tool though not through Amazon for over 30 years and it has always removed the remaining threads. My brand might be different but there is no label on it. All my grease tools were Lincoln so that might be it.
Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication G904 Small 4-Way Grease Fitting Tool: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-G904-Grease-Fitting/dp/B000P6WM78/ref=asc_df_B000P6WM78/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5976396347206744808&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031159&hvtargid=pla-448850703070&psc=1)
I like this kit, with the red and yellow zirk protectors, that could be used on the Meritor brake zirk fittings.
Amazon.com: Complete Grease Fitting Replacement Kit - SAE and metric Zerks,... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9DJS3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_BKH2Q8D8B2CG9KH58MA1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Gleam,I looked at mine and looks like the 2 ends of the bar pivot/move around an end piece,make sure you put some penetrant there also,that could be in a bind too.
looked at mine and if I couldn't replace the grease nipple I would weld 1/2 of a 1/8th
pipe nipple over the old grease nipple hole and then put a 1/8 grease nipple in. If I ever
think I have problems on the end hinges I would drill a hole just through the first pipe
do the same to grease it.
The end pieces look like they have a sealed bearing in them. No way to grease from the outside.
Wonder if that could be what's binding,wonder when Mr. Gleam opened the cover last.
I have opened the engine door.
I will replace the broken zerk, and try and figure out why I'm having trouble opening the access. This happened as we were leaving Mexico. I got it working, but it froze up again, here in Maine.
The salt sea air is probably the culprit. I will lubricate everything that moves, and some things that don't.
Thanks for all of your help. Gave me confidence.
Salt air? Could it be dried salt particles causing it to seize? Maybe try hot water on the joints, or SaltX.
Yayyyyy!
Patience is a more important virtue than confidence when it comes to loosening seized fittings.