Well the time has come to start my rebuild thread. This will be to log all the adventures with the new to us FT. Tonight was day one and the first time I have worked on anything on the new coach.
Today was an exciting day. I received my Porta-Power hydraulic set I ordered and my son and I jumped into trying it out. We figured out a couple of solid locations to press from and we moved some things around but quickly realized that the stair frame just needed to be removed entirely.
The sawzall came out and 3 cuts later the stair frame fell out. Not a single bolt was left intact from the accident which made things really easy to get it out. Just one bolt or screw in some back corner would have turned that into a much longer project. I did have to disconnect the airlines and wires to the step air solenoids then out it came. It is in pretty rough shape. Honestly not sure if I am going to try to rebuild the factory step. I have to think about it.
To end the night we rigged the ram into the door opening and spread it apart in a few spots. It started to line things up a bit but the warped door will need to come off to get the frame right. The door itself is going to be the most challenging part of the project for sure. We spent a few minutes looking at it closely and it is a very very well made door, but it is going to take some work to get it flat again. I think getting it removed and on the workbench will be the first step, then go from there.
There still is hope I could find a door as I have not called more than Visones to look for a possible used one.
Yikes! What happened?
I left out a bit of backstory, sorry about that! This is from a post on another site I made the day we bought it a few weeks ago. The pictures are of before and after damage occurred.
My wife and I made kind of a crazy decision out of the blue today. A 1995 Foretravel U295 came up for sale locally. It was 10 mins from my house and I had to go look with the DW. They guy selling it is in a bad situation where he bought it just last fall. He almost immediately accidentally left the parking brake off and it went rolling into another truck and damaged the front door and steps.
I went and looked it over and the coach is clean really nice condition coach. Engine compartment and everything I looked over is in really great condition. Needs tires, air bags, and front end repairs. We made a deal and we are picking it up tomorrow. I know I am able to do the work but am I crazy??
The idea is selling our current 1994 HR Navigator (See my rebuild thread here) (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/rebuilding-94-holiday-rambler-navigator-509370.html)) and making this our new coach. Biggest reason being it seems like it is in better shape to start with and worth putting more time and money into than the Nav. Now don't get me wrong, love the Navigator. It's a really solid well built coach. This one just has less surface rust and in general seems so clean. Cabinets are absolutely beautiful walnut, never seem them so nice. All the walls are walnut too! I already like how Foretravel designed the chassis, the engine bay is so much easier to get to. For a guy who wrenches, that is a big plus.
Soooo, am I crazy??
At the very least, join the Foretravel Motorcade Club so you have more access to the technicians at Foretravel. Your coach is still supported by the factor in Texas, and when you're ready it wouldn't hurt to give them a call about the step.
Art
You could buy the electric step that Xtreme puts in on the step conversion cheaper than building a stock setup or talk to Xtreme and buy one of the take offs.
Life is nothing more than a series of upgrades.
If your rebuilding anyway this would be the time to upgrade into new steps and headlights. You will never be satisfied with the stock headlight reflectors and the location is just too low to work as well as if you raise them up 16 inches. At there current level they almost are at a flat projection. IMO
Scott
those all all great suggestions - plus Motorcade club will get you 10% off parts at Foretravel and Motorhomes of Texas
FORETRAVEL (http://www.foretravel.com/motorcade-club)
Call the main foretravel number and there will be a voice prompt for the Motorcade club - you will speak to Beverly Koonce - about $125 I think, or less annually.
X-treme Paint and Graphix in Nacogdoches, TX. (Greg is best to talk to - Main number is (936) 560-5888 (https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=xtreme+paint+nacogdoches+tx&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#)) would be a great source to send some pictures, get a quote to fix (I know you are going to do this yourself, but it allows you to get their input) and they might have headlight parts, stair parts and door sources that will help you i the rebuild.
So to blatantly answer your question, anyone who owns a rolling home probably should be a little crazy and deep pockets don't hurt. Personally I probably would just build a new door. Extreme door steps and since your in headlights also. Nah I don't think your crazy. Our coach was the same thing only different but COVID made ours possible. 4500 miles last week really helped reinforce our decision. Hundreds of years of knowledge right at you finger tips. So welcome as a new proud owner and everyone here loves pictures and projects, at least I do
Scott
Noah, be careful what you are pushing against with that porta-power....you may end up with a twerked suspension.
Call Rance at Extreme in Nac. He had a few doors in storage in the parts barn. You need exact measurements, as there were 3 different door sizes on that era buses.
Woody.
My 2003 came factory new with a Kwikee step. I suggest you do the same.
FYI
Kwikee steps are all import stuff now.....No longer Oregon, American made. They also rust up easy, especially if near the coast.
Powder coat flakes off, can get stuck in or out.
Just Sayin'
Chris
I always thought once powdercoated it was un removable? Poor prep? I still plan to get set up to eventually to powder coat.
Scott
Problem with powder coat is if the metal isn't properly prepared then it can lose the adhesion. Also when a crack develops in the surface and moisture can enter then it will start flaking. Nothing is better than a primer and topcoat system. Easy to repair when needed. Powder coat is very difficult to repair.
I have powdered coated a few car frames and it is all about prep, I have had good luck with it and no major problems.
Just make sure you take it to a good shop.jmho :))
To a certain extent that is true. Coastal salty air, will cause rust, at the edge, then get under the powder coating. It will come off in sheets.
I have an old gas pump I powdered coated, was sandblasted so it's prepped perfect. It does fine outdoors, but is really fading after 10 years.
I have had many other things powder coated, that have rusted and peeled. But all and all, powder coating is pretty awesome.
Chris
Quick update: Turns out the porta power was a waste for this project. Waaay easier to just tear it all out and rebuild. I'm going to find a door. Rest will be easy.
Going to stick with factory headlight location. I really like the look of it. I want to try and keep as original as I can. I think it's a classic. Exception will be the stairs. An upgrade is in order for sure.
Here are some today progress pics.
Good job
Just put LED bulbs in the headlight fixtures, it will be like night and day (pun intended). Cheap as chips. Plenty of posts on here doing it.
I'm with you, like the original classic look too.
Looks like it needed a step rebuild anyway. Kwikee is probably the easiest as other said.
I bet there is a door out there.
Chris
If you'll be rebuilding the steps you might consider making them so they are open if possible. That would give you a longer tread for more safety. I don't like the short step treads and usually go up sideways.
X2 on foliver. I side-hill the steps, too.
MS
I really want to find a door that I can make work. I responded to the Door no longer made (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40828.new#newold) thread talking about this same door from PO when he was researching. If the 95 smaller door is truly a unicorn I want to retrofit a larger door in if possible. I know I could probably build a door, or have one made, but I want to use the coach this summer! I want to get this buttoned up as soon as possible and I know finding a used door, or even possibly buying a new one that fits the opening will speed things up.
Here are the pictures of our 97 door rebuild, also installing power lock, hope it helps. Just thinking if you find a later door, would be easy to narrow it, window might be tight.
Chris
Yeah my door is nothing like that one. It is entirely made of aluminum. It is a REALLY well made door but that in my opinion makes it quite difficult to repair. The front of the door is an aluminum skin that is rolled/pinched/welded into the body of the door which is solid aluminum as well. Hard to describe. I did not realize the other model larger doors were completely different construction...makes me think I have to find a way to get this door fixed.
Awesome work Chris....I salute you ..!!!
I have had zero daytime hours to work on this but last night I did get the old door taken apart. I was able to cut a few welds, make a couple of decisive cuts in limited places and take it apart. It really is not that complicated of a door once it is broken down. I will keep playing around with trying to straighten things out while also hearing back from a few places about helping me out.
My big thing is I need to use the coach for the 4th at the cabin...I might be throwing a temp door in and hitting the road with it a little rough :)
Made some more progress tonight. I think I am going to get this back into shape. It will need some body work to make it pretty again. The panels are getting close to straight and flat again. The outer door skin I still need to work a bit more and will need the most filler and sanding. The door frame that mounts to the opening will be next. It's pretty heavy gauge stuff, hopefully I can get it straight enough to use.
I am just taking my time using a 2# hammer, masonry hammer, some blocks of wood, various clamps, and a torch to heat some areas. It is going surprisingly well, my son is enjoying helping straighten some of the smaller misc pieces. Even my daughter came to hang for awhile tonight :)
If in the end I'm unhappy with it I know I could get some fresh metal bent up and build a new door. I am seeing what I can accomplish on my own first. I have a feeling it is going to work great.
Your kids are wanting you to have it fixed so they can go out camping.
Based on the before and after pictures of that door, it is looking great.
Noah.
I'm sure you have the door weather strip figured out. I know when we ask FOT they no longer have it. Curious what your w.s. Plans are ?
If FOT doesn't have the door weatherstrip then call Xtreme Graphics.
My door has an internal seal/gasket and it was intact. I removed it and I just have to glue it back on when I'm done!
More progress tonight. Couple of pics.
Making fantastic progress on the door 30 mins to 1 hr at a time! I have some real hours reserved this weekend to get as much done as I can. The door frame is all straightened out and fits like a glove back in the opening. Next is to reassemble (dry fit looks great) the front and door, epoxy and rivet everything back together, and rebuild the stair box. I hope to have a door in by the end of the weekend. I'll get some better pics soon.
Looking good. I had a old A and P instructor that showed you could anneal to soften aluminum by covering with a pure acetylene flame suet then add oxygen and burn the suet off and let it cool. Reduced the work hardening. Bring that frame by the house and I'll tig it up for you. I've also got 3m scotch weld adhesive I can give you too. With the scotch weld it will bond to styrofoam and not melt it. Bond the entire thing together.
Again looking much better than what you started with.
Scott
Yesterday was a huge 15 hr day. Finished bending parts for the door. Reassemble all the locks and handles. Put the inner and outer door skins back together, lots of rivets and epoxy curing overnight. I tried my luck at brazing aluminum, never done that. It worked okay. Luckily it is in an area completely covered because it doesn't look great. I am hesitant to share but this is real life learning lessons for me. Be nice :)
Tore out old stairs. Built new ones with an extra inch of tread depth. Put two coats of foundation waterproofing on the pywood box (no pics yet) as the original factory idea of wrapping in aluminum was bad. It just held water. Totally rotted out. For how clean this coach is I'd bet more people have rotted stair bottoms than know it.
I hang the door today, it's a big moment for me! Wish me.luck :)
You're brazing looks good because it wet the underlying metal. Congratulations.
We make our own luck.
And yes, re-hanging the door is a big moment. A time worthy of celebration and ceremony. Recognition.
Consider anything other than "Isn't it supposed to do that?" High praise indeed.
^.^d I love the can do attitude ^.^d
So IMO since you have never used this product, don't do this for a career, (yet) you have accomplished a good repair for which most others can only admire or complain about. Is it going to fail? Probably not, but you did represent a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser of your skill, more than I would do, it's a home run. I personally think you are accomplishing what few can do. And you didn't spent 10k to do it.
CAN'T NEVER DID NOTHING!
Very well done.
Scott
One does NOT learn by NOT trying. Go for it!!
I have never brazed aluminum but what you did looks good. We have a local boat repair guy that does our aluminum welding. You have me wanting to try it. On your door, what you have done will work and is exceptional. Wait till July 4 to hang it......go buy more fireworks to celebrate.
Cobalt blue welding lens help to see the difference in the solidified and molten aluminum. Brazing rod has a lower melting alloy and is softer than base metal but the difference between the solid, to liquid is real close together. And you're using a acetylene torch . 😁 It's good fun. Tig controls the temperature range closer and isolates the heat tighter. And a perfect controlled atmosphere. That crazy mig machine just does magic crazy stuff on thicker aluminum and makes my welds look like I know what I'm doing, and I don't. Again good fun
Scott
Noah, probably too late but some coaches have a hinged compartment for the middle step. Kinda nice to have.
Great work!
Thanks everyone for the kind words. I am happy to report I did it. Stairs installed. Door hung. Window installed. I put about 25 hrs into this so far. I'm pretty happy with the results. Door shuts nice, need to reglue the weatherstrip on before I can make final adjustments. It's a really solid well made door. I'm glad I chose to fix it.
It's late, I'm tired, I'm sore. More detailed updates to come. I am skipping a lot of info. Just had to post update as I am so excited to have a door again. I will also reply to comments.
You win the super job of year!
I just marvel at your work. Just excellent. If you had this done at Xtreme or another specialty shop, I'm guessing 10 or 12 Gs at least.
jor
I am empresses by your talent, great job.
You remind me of myself growing up...LOL....Great work.Never give up, forget the naysayers. Instructions are one thing, real world experience is another.You are an artist.
Chris
Over the years, no bigger motivator for me, relatives, and other friends than "you can't".
It dawned on me I never posted an update after our first trip! Door and steps worked great, wasn't even loud going down the road. Weatherstrip must be doing its job! I rigged a new temp headlight up so we would at least be legal with a turn signal too.
She drove really nice, very happy with how it handled. It tracks like a dream, I can literally take my hands off the wheel (not for long for safety of course) and could drive with one finger if I want. SO much better than the HR Navigator I sold.
I am just slammed these days with work and now playoff baseball/softball with the kids. I help coach both teams. The bodywork rebuild is a little delayed. Busy next weekend then going to hit the road for 10 days! I'm just going to drive it with the fiberglass missing, who cares for now. I'd rather be putting miles on than working on it during prime summer days anyway. 8)
I do need to get some tires. I'm torn, just steers and wait for drives till next year or all at once. They are 7 year old but look mint. Not one single check anywhere. I'd swear they were less than 2 years old. For sure want to do the steers...actually just typing this out I think I've decided. All new tires. It's not worth the risk.
I'll try to post some more updates soon.
Looks can be deceiving, your making the right decision on the tires for your safety. Some tire shops will buy your old tires to sell to truckers for their trailers.
Nice work on the rebuild!
Keith
Well apparently Toyo are hard to get right now. I ended up having to order my set and have them shipped to my local shop. I decided on 295/75/22.5 - G Toyo M154.
All 6 installed with freight $3400. Not a killer deal but fair.
I'm thinking of putting beads in all of them, what do you all do? Beads in front, nothing in back is what my shop says most RVs do. That seems crazy to not balance the rears but maybe that's normal??
All container ships still have not been unloaded.
Shop that mounted our new tires said they don't balance front or rear as they don't seem to need it. Ours are perfect, no complaints. H load rating, M speed rating, regional/highway.
Pierce
We have Toyo's, just standard balanced by les Schwab. Been 20K miles, and they are fine.
Chris
Have been happy with the Centermatics.
Spin balanced fronts, beads (with the correct valve stems) in the rear.
I had bought a U240 Foretravel and it vibrated bigtime. I took it to about 4 different shops and they all said they could not get the tires to balance. Finally took it to one shop and after they tried twice they told me they were going to break the tire down. They found the tire had the beads in them and sometime some one had put wet air in the tires and the beads all stuck together. Once they removed them they were able to get the tires to balance.
I would balance all of the tires. Easiest to do when you are getting new tires.
Just ordered the Tire tracker Tt-600 tpms too! I've wanted one for awhile. New tires, new coach, cheap insurance!
I have 6 Toyo M177 295/75R22.5 waiting to be installed on Monday. Computer said 99+ available when we ordered last week. About $3100.
Rich
Yup I could have got the M177, they were a little cheaper and available but they are more of a steer tire and have slightly less traction as a drive. For most this will 100% never come into play but I do use my RV's in the winter. I drove through the middle of the storm last Feb that killed Texas. The 177's also have a decoupling groove, I as understand it allows the tire in certain positions wear more even and prevents cupping. Again probably will never come into play on your coach unless you put on 50k in the next few years. I think you will be very happy with those.
Noah I had spoke with a toyo tech about only being steer tires. He explained they were a more stable tire to handle the loads induced by steering loads. I'm quite happy with them but they do appear to be a OTR tire with little blocking. I happen to like that in a tire but am never operating in slick conditions. I have H rated and they have 10k miles since new last year. Currently would recommend and would replace with same. But that being said I do plan to sell them off at five years old and replace with new. I figure. They loose 10% of there value per year IMO. So if I can get half my money back at five years I'm a winner with younger tire. IMO
Scott
Performance Tire Siping | What is Tire Siping - Les Schwab (https://www.lesschwab.com/article/performance-tire-siping.html)
Quick update, made.more progress on the rebuild in a mad dash to get on the road! 6 new Toyos, some fiberglass put back on, new headlights installed, alternator replaced, new Victron battery isolator, dash A/c fixed, new battery disconnect, TPMS installed, bought a 50a Southwire surge EMS, put in a new step outside the door, fixed air horn, new co/smoke alarm. I've been insane the last few weeks but made it happen!
On our way to Yellowstone and Glacier. Parked in South Dakota right now off 90.
Excellent progress. Need "view from windshield" photos in Yellowstone, Glacier.
Pierce
Amazing what you got done in 2 weeks before a trip. Did you do any sleeping?
That coach was meant for you, you two were made for each other.
In Glacier you are only one day away from our farm, where we have 50 Amp hookup and an indoor hangar for maintenance work for free as long as you are vaccinated.
Regards
Klaus
Well we were broke down in Cody (you may have seen my post about the alternator failure (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42876.msg430758;mentionread;mark=read;kGxuBANqIH0=has30gPd1AGpQHN7Vbfp9gduhEUC5En8;item=218569#msg430758)) but while were sitting I thought I would post some more about all the pre-trip repairs. Thanks to everyone who has reached out for help. What a fantastic community!
Yes I sleep, I just get up early, work hard, and get stuff done! My job (general contractor) has been VERY busy these days as well. Making all these repairs before we left was a huge undertaking. I often wonder sometimes how I get done all the stuff I do. I don't make much time for myself as far as hobbies or friends anymore. Just working on projects on the house or the RV.
I forgot to mention the bulkhead woes I encountered as well. When we took our maiden voyage over the 4th the rear bulkhead pretty much separated from the angle iron by the time we made it home. All the rolex -sp? bolts were broken. I knew I needed to repair that before this trip but did not have time to do a full on rebuild. Luckily when I cut open some holes into the fiberglass bottom the internal steel was still solid. Had surface rust but not all rotted out like some of the pics I have seen. I was able to get (6) new 3/8" grade 8 bolts installed and bolted down tight. It all sucked back together and now after ~1300 hard miles with a full water tank nothing has moved.
I also wanted to share some of my experiences of the first part of the trip and our first real miles in the FT. First thing I have to say is WOW do these drive nice. Day one was a long day and almost 600 miles. I would have been exhausted in our previous DP after a day like that. I was ready to keep going, maybe it was just the adrenaline of hitting the road but I felt fresh. I set the cruise at 65 and just enjoyed the ride. The steering is so much more stable and the wind whether passing trucks or just gusts seem to barely be noticeable.
One difference I noted early on was the temp on this seems to be stable at about 190-195. Our previous C8.3 ran at 180. I am wondering if that is a little high? When we hit the Big Horns was the first time I really was able to hit the limits of the coach. On the initial steep climb we were down to 3rd gear (6 speed) and doing about 35 MPH. The temp also climbed to about 215. I was getting nervous on that first climb but after a few more tries on some more of the steeps I found 4th gear was the magic number. The temp never climbed over the 215 mark so I think we are okay. It was also 90-100 degrees outside.
The other thing I have to write about is the transmission retarder! I AM BLOWN AWAY at how well it works. You can hold pretty much any speed you want on any grade with enough rpm and the right gear. It was really relaxing and peaceful just floating down the steep grades enjoying the scenery. Once you figure out the right gear to be and keeping the rpm in a range where the retarder works well and keeps the temps down it's quite a joy to roll down these steep mountain roads.
I am super bummed I wrote about 30 more minutes of text and my internet connection failed and I lost all of it. I guess this all I have to say for now.
Retarder
So when you get your additional gauges you will find a additional gauge for the retarder. Your current gauge goes up to 400 deg as I recall and if you run the temperature up it will damage the oil. It also is for the trans, not actual retarder temp. So the oil is grossly expensive. I attempt to keep mine below 245 degrees max and shoot for 225. I rarely use more than position one of six or high temperatures is a issue on long down hills. Same or lower gear to decend as you climb. Rpms are your friend. Yes it's always there in reserve but you will over-temp and shorten the life of your oil
Scott
Note I've never had the trans temp follow the retarder. Retarder is always exceeding
Transynd oil (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40530.msg402306#msg402306)
So you are saying you put a temp gauge in-line with the retarder somewhere? I am aware to watch out for the temps. After the first few times I used it I was able to keep temps below 225-ish on the gauge. If I am understanding what you are saying though I am actually running much higher in the retarder.
I also really want a pyrometer!
When I got the VMSpc I found that the retarder temps were over 250 when my trans temp were under 200. I had been over heating the trans fluid for 2 years on the grade going into Bishop. I changed my 3 year old Transynd before this trip because of that.
Ohh my! That's a big difference! I will have to look into how I can monitor those temps. I am pre-computer so no VMSpc for me.
Me too. And the price is now like $56 gallon. Think we paid $46. Covid-19 makes another strike. I have the Blue fire and although I have retarder temps I can't recommend.
All I can say is don't overuse retarder, slower descending speed, same or lower gear as you need to climb. I agree if you need it use it, they do work. OTR trucks use a jake for a reason, there heavier and jakes work well. Retarders do really work well, but they have to put the energy somewhere and that's into the oil. Manageable but not bulletproof. IMO
Scott
We made it home with no more issues! Was able to make it into Glacier (only to Avalanche Creek as larger rigs are not allowed past there on Going to the Sun Rd) Did some amazing hiking. We found I think just about the only parking spot that would fit us.
Drove around the Hungry Horse Dam area as well on the East side up to St Mary and back home on Rt 2 all the way to MN. All in all was some pretty epic RV driving.
Trip recap:
10 days
3446 miles
409 gallons of diesel
8.41 mpg (even with running the generator for at least 20 hrs and lots of mountain driving)
Noah, great news that after all your hard work to rebuild, the first big road trip went reasonably trouble free, and that the family got to see a little bit o' paradise. Hoping you have many more uneventful adventures ahead.
You and your family embody the spirit of all of us older Foretravel model owners. The tribulations of initial ownership of a 20+ year old road behemoth are varied, but you seem to have had the average, or maybe even slightly even more stressful learning curve, and handled it with optimism and enthusiasm. Safe Foretravelling....Woody.
Its been a bit since my last update. It has been a VERY busy Fall, work projects, other vehicle maintenance, kids activities, and squeeze in a bit of RV love when time allows. I am trying to get as much done before the snow flies. (Which could be any day now in MN)
One of my maintenance priorities was flushing the coolant, new water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt. I was able to get that done over the last few days. I really wasn't quite clear about if I had the double thermostat or just a single. I also wasn't sure what gaskets I was going to need. My online research and FT Manuals were conflicted in these areas. Upon disassembly of the components I learned that I had one large thermostat #3913028 and could only find the gasket for the filter housing to engine, 3 hole gasket #3913025. The top inlet elbow, 2 hole gasket I decided to just make my own with some paper gasket material I had laying around. I was a little nervous it would leak but it ended up working great.
With everything taken apart I unhooked the lower radiator hose from the radiator and flushed the whole system with garden hose to start. I continued unhooking a few other hoses and making sure I had a good flush. Next I put back the thermostat housing and water pump. Put in the new belt, hooked all my hoses back up, and installed a new Donaldson #P129472 air filter and gasket.
I filled the system with distilled water to try and flush out any leftover minerals etc from my tap water flush. I started and ran the motor for awhile until I could feel hoses starting to get warm. I shut it down and let the coolant system drain again overnight. This morning I was able to get the Cummins filled back up with Final Charge coolant. I did a 50/50 mix with distilled water. The first gallon I added was an undiluted gallon of concentrate to offset any water trapped in the system. With the system drained from the radiator and block drain ports it takes exactly 14 gallons to fill back up including the overflow jug.
With everything topped off and put back together I took it on a little test drive. There were two reasons I wanted to get this flush done before winter. One, I was a little concerned with the higher than 180 temps I was seeing at the dash. I have been seeing 195+ depending on heat and grade of climb. Two, I plan on taking this south for a winter trip in February and want to make sure things are in top shape ready to go on subzero trip.
The test drive deemed itself successful and resulted in a change in temps. I watched as the temp rose to 180 hoping it would stop there. It continued to climb past to about 190 (hard to tell exactly on the factory dash temp gauges) but then I could see the thermostat open and the temp drop back down. It kind of cycled and continued to do this throughout the test drive. I feel good about it. Back at the ranch I parked and checked for leaks. I did notice a slight amount of seepage from the water pump. Hoping that was something just working itself in and will stop, I'll keep and eye on it.
While I had everything apart I took the time to do a little paint job. It drives me nuts how the new water pumps are not coated. When installed they just turn to surface rust quick. I put a little jazz into it and went for copper color. Also put a fresh coat of black on the thermostat/filter housings.
I forgot to mention before I started the project I sprayed down the engine area with degreaser and gave it all a good spray down. It looks pretty good for a quick wash!
Next on the agenda is rebuilding the furnaces. I ordered new motors (they were both really loud) and some backup spare parts. I purchased a control board, limit switch, and sail switch. These have all failed on me in prior RV's leaving me without heat. Now I am prepared!
Also on the list before the next big trip/winter:
- Figure out driveline vibration (per a different thread sounds like bearing retainer on the retarded
- Tranny filter fluid change to 668
- New self leveling caulk on the roof
- Rebuild 2 large blinds (strings)
- Start swapping lights to LED
In case anyone needs it, 6 gallons of Transynd $240 @ DuraMax Store
Transynd Synthetic Fluid (6 gallons) | DMAX Store (https://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&product_id=7620&search=transynd)
Sorry for the misinformation above, after looking at my purchases, this is where I got my Transynd, but now only available in 1 gallon purchases @ $48 per. Seems they no longer have the 6 gallon deal.
Allison Transmission TranSynd1 Synthetic Trans Fluid (https://dirtyhookerdiesel.com/i-14902338-allison-transmission-transynd1-synthetic-trans-fluid.html)
I ordered 5 gallons from Napa online for only $159 ($31.80/gallon) on Oct 11th and it is just sitting waiting to ship...I am losing faith I scored that deal.
UPDATE: I called Napa and the order is stuck waiting to ship from NC. I am opting to cancel that order and order single gallons for pickup later to day from my local Napa store for $36 a gallon. :)
I got 5 gallons from Napa Coeur d Alene idaho coming out of Portland Or., be here tomorrow. $175.00 with my discount.Called a truck place (alison dealer in Spokane), $78.00 a gallon, Yikes!
Chris
Did I ever show the custom plates I got? I don't think I did.
BSKYRV = Bluesky RV
Nice plates. Keep them as long as you can.
Here is a picture of ours. We got these in 1979 and they have been on every RV since. Old school, stamped galvanized steel. Just shy of 42 years old. They wanted to know if we wanted to replace them when we got the coach almost 11 years ago. Nope, there is history here.
Ohh that is fantastic! Love the old MN plates :)
My '81
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43042.0;attach=113371;image
Wow, hard to believe it's been a year since I was on here! Between work kicking my arse and the kids busy with ball, I've been MIA. The FT has been used a few times this year, mostly short day trips. No issues at all. I did rebuild both furnaces with new motors this fall. Nothing else major to report. Never got around to the body work this summer. We are planning a possible trip to the FL Keys this Feb/March.
I was hoping to use it more this summer for ball tournaments out of town but it never seemed to work out. We were almost always having to split up, me taking one kid, wife taking the other and it never made sense to stay in the RV. It killed me to rent a hotel for the wife and daughter one weekend knowing if I was available we would all be together in the FT :)
Still over a year after buying this beast every time I get in and start it up I grin ear to ear. Driving away I am always reminded of what a pleasure it is to drive. So much fun, what a wonderful machine.
Hope all is well, I have some forum catching up to do!
This spring I got the old girl out of storage and got after the loose P3 carrier bearing issue. I will post a detailed write up in a separate post. I took it for it's maiden voyage for 2023 over Memorial weekend. Was super bummed when I showed up to camp and turned the gen set off and found my battery bank was only showing 10.2 volts. I woke the next morning and went into the small town I was near and found two new 8D batteries. Other than that surprise all is well, love this coach!
Did some rib smoking, off roading in my Suzuki Samurai, and hung with some great friends from all over the country!
This was also the first time I towed with this RV. Towed the Samurai on a trailer and it towed very nicely. I can tell the motor is working a little harder but the scariest thing is I assumed there was a brake controller because it has a 7 way plug on the back. Apparently is doesn't! I am surprised that is not a factory setup. Maybe I am missing something. I did buy a controller to install before the next trip.
I have a buff, wax, and full interior detail/shampoo scheduled in July. I am pretty excited about that!
If you're converting to the seven pin standard connector you will be able to add a reverse light and a brake control circuit. I use a couple of the spare foretravel wires and ran my brake controller threw it up front. Gives you manual override capability. I do like the additional back up lights on the trailer. My primary coach driveway is 300 feet long and it has a dog leg in the middle by design. Much nicer. Also having a charge circuit is nice to keep batteries fully charged. I did add a brake signal converter to the coach before the plug eliminating the dedicated brake light wire using the turn signals on both sides like all my other stuff is wired. I do reccomend using a powered converter. I did not but will eventually change to the powered. Makes the turn signals much brighter.
Amazon.com: Tekonsha 119191 ModuLite HD Plus Protector with Integrated... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2DUM2/?coliid=IWVB0ZRUDB7U8&colid=12M94CNUE9SD1&psc=0&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it)
Nice Sami!! Ribs too
This is the one I bought.
Amazon.com: Hopkins Manufacturing 46365 Short Proof Power Converter : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-46365-Short-Proof-Converter/dp/B0002Q804K)
You have done a good job bringing the coach back and you've earned the good times ahead.... Now a good coat of dry rub on top of the mustard and the ribs should turn out good as well.
When you install the brake controller, you will need to isolate the brake signal to the brake controller to not be activated by the retarder. I have always used a diode for this purpose, but you could also install an additional brake light sender.