I have a rebuilt Red Head gearbox that I purchased and I wanted to drive my coach about a 1/2 hr to a truck mechanic that can swap it out for the old one. For a long time it leaked on an off. For the last 6,000 miles it didn't leak at all. Now it is leaking too much to drive it.
It's at my house. Someone suggested a additive that would make the seals swell until I could get it to the mechanic.
My only concern is if it would interfere with the fans that cool the radiator.
Or I could see if I could get someone to come to the house and do the work.
I saw the video from someone who replaced it at his house but I don't know if I can do it.
I wouldn't use a sealer for this as you are going to replace the gear box. Try putting a bucket under the leak and working the steering wheel back and forth to get some heat in the seal. It might slow down enough to drive. If you weren't replacing the box then I would recommend the sealer.
I agree against the sealer. It designed to swell the seals and in doing so you could be opening Pandora's box. This would be to help small leaks. I would bucket and refill unless it's beyond that point and would be considering towed for replacement or have them come to you. At least you have the replacement.
Scott
I wrapped a garbage bag around mine and drove it for an hour and half to MOT
I was able to drive it so I took it to a truck garage. They charge $160 per hr and he said it could be 16hrs.
They never did a Foretravel so it was a guestimate.
So I have an appt with a garage that does RV work and they charge $117 per hr. I will have to drive it there to get an estimate.
From reading posts on the forum I estimate it should be between 8 and 12 hours.
Does anyone know a good RV mechanic in Northeast Ohio or thereabouts.
Thanks
Try a independent truck garage in your area. The number of hours to replace it seems very high. Are you near Wooster Ohio?
I took mine to a Freightliner shop. I had things removed so it was easy access for them and they did it in 8 hours.
Yup, the "getting to it" is the issue. And, that depends on model and model year.
Were I a shop that had never done one and didn't know exactly what was required for access to remove the steering box, I would bid HIGH, really HIGH.
Rick, Blubaugh Body & Frame in My Vernon, Oh. About a hour away from you I think. Chad Blubaugh, owner, his father had a Foretravel for many years. They do all kind of heavy truck repair and they know Foretravels. At least you can call and talk to them about your repair. They have done work on my coach several times. Phone 800.297.2284 or 740.397.2615 Blubaugh Body and Frame Auto and Truck Repairs Mount Vernon, Ohio (http://www.blubaughs.com) web site.
If u can see the seal, try some Wagner type hydraulic fluid, not the newer silicon fluid. Sorry my mind is out of gear can't think of the chemical name. (Glycol based)( mind in gear). It will swell the nitrile the seal is made of, only put it on the outside from say a spray bottle. ( DO NOT PUT I IN WITH THE OIL)Do not put it in the fluid side.
It would eventually destroy hoses seals whatever in the system....
The other thought wrap some cotton string around the shaft try poking it under the case like a packing.
Either of these ideas are off the wall maybe s..
I have got to get my old achy body under, have a look, some P.O. Had my box changed. Best I know.
Wagner (a glycol based fluid). type hydraulic brake fluid systems used epdm rubber, u can swell epdm with oil.
As a FYI Viton will work with either fluid and give longer life in oil seal or dynamic applications. Viton not good cold weather. Say 20f it's a brick or close.
Just thoughts, worth what u paid for them.
Good luck,
Sorry, have no idea of the chemistry between Delo 400 15-40 (the specified fluid for a LONG TIME) and "Wagner type hydraulic fluid".
If your coach called for a different hydraulic fluid, please let us know.
Documentation please!
It took two guys in Mexico plus me 4 hours to change out the shepherd steering box in my u320. Now I don't have the headlights in anymore so taking off the cover allowed better access but in the end I can't imagine it taking more than 6 hours. It all depends on how hard it is to get the pitman arm off. You need to have the proper puller. And of course there are some things that you can do ahead of time that may lessen the time it takes for them to do the work. For instance taking out the squirrel cage fan if you have one for the generator, will save a little bit of time. Really I would not want to do it myself as getting it out and getting it back in again is tricky. But if you had a good floor jack and you could mount the gearbox to it it would be easier maybe. My guys in Mexico charged me $60 an hour so I think I gave him $250. Plus a tip for the two guys.
YMMV. Good luck.
Bob
Sorry, I was preoccupied for couple of days. Thanks for the input. I think I will call those guys in Mt Vernon. And I will take off the fan for the generator radiator. Someone suggested replacing the hose or hoses from the radiator.
I will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
That would be the time to change hoses would save lots of labor.
Mt Vernon is about 2 1/2 hrs away from me. I will call them; it may be worth the drive.
But who was the mechanic in Wooster.
Thanks
FYI, The Steering gear box, and the Radiator fans are two separate systems. Two different supply tanks.
Not on his coach, they are the same tank.
I did get my gearbox replaced.
I didn't have time to take the fan out.
I brought it in (Blubaugh in Mt Vernon Ohio) and after several hours of working on it they said they couldn't get the pitman arm off.
I showed them the You Tube video of one of our Foretravel members afterward. (Mistake number one: I should have showed them that video before hand). But when I'm in these situations I don't know how much I should say. I don't want to belittle them but at the same time it would be very useful information for them. Like when I take my coach in for oil and lube service I give them the picture in the manual of all the grease fittings.
So they had to order the right puller for the pitman arm. After getting the puller and watching the video they didn't have any problem.
So instead of instead of $600 it cost me $1200.
I thing next time I go in to have it serviced I will give them all the info I have.
My second mistake: I didn't realize it at the time but they had me sign a blank worksheet and initial where it said that I didn't ask for an estimate. When in reality I did request an estimate. You would think after 50 years of driving a vehicle I would know better. I was so preoccupied that morning that I just did what they told me. A word to the wise. I won't do that again.
Also they aligned it "as good as they could". It was ok but not on the mark. So I took it to a truck service center that does independent front suspension and it is good now.
Sounds like a lesson of what not to do when you take a coach in for service,if they did not know about a puller and could not align,
what type of shop is Blubaugh and why did'nt you take it to the last shop to begin with?
Reply number 8 seems to be the info on Blubaugh, and would the last shop that does alignment be willing to replace the gearbox? Alignment is totally different then replacing a gear box and pulling the pittman arm.
Other than setting the steering box relief plungers, there is NO "front end alignment" needed when replacing the steering box.
You are not dealing with a single adjustment that would affect alignment.
No, that doesn't mean you don't need an alignment, just that they are unrelated.