We are back from our trip to New Mexico, and put Colorado off until later. We were tired of heat and worried about the fires. We stayed an extra night in New Mexico to avoid the closed section of I-10 last night. So we are home and I need stuff to do in the 100* heat. How about those old fuel lines?
What do I need?
I have spent a lot of time looking through the fuel line posts I found with the search function. Different lengths of coach, different years, different models, different generators and water heaters...
Does anyone know what hose sizes and approximate lengths I need? I have the following in my notes, but I can't find the source to determine if it is for my coach.
5/8 inch - 30 feet
3/8 inch 70 feet
1/2 inch 37 feet
1/4 inch 3 feet (for Aqua Hot)
Three more questions:
Are there any bolts holding the fuel tank other than those in the flanges on the ends?
Is there enough slack in the old (apparently original) hoses to pull the tank out to the fittings without first cutting the hoses?
Are Gates Barricade or Trident A1-15 both wise choices?
Thanks!
I pulled mine and took them in, had them made a bit longer. Those are the only bolts. Tank came out to get lines off but tight. Make sure factory didn't switch gen and engine. Just pull out and ck length of pickups.Also once tank is back in place, blow through lines making sure they are not pinched. Ck out gracerace for my fuel line post.
I used Trident hose, easy to work withwith the original push loc fittings. Plenty of slack to get the tank out. Just a tight fit with all the cable and tings that run over top of the tank just work slow. Check for a fuel cooler those lines need to be replaced as well.
Right after we got the coach, we ran the fuel down until the generator quit. It wasn't the engine, so it is up to me to keep them straight!
Upcoming weather in the 100s. I WILL be working slow!
I used different color spray paint on hose and fitting, no mistakes.
Chris
Used a 1'x2' board to hold the wires etc. up, while pulling tank.
Chris
I am dense sometimes. I take this to mean that you used a long board to get under the wires and etc running across the center of the tank, and lift them up to keep them from hanging up on the tank fittings. Yes?
I would use different color zip ties. I don't like the idea of painting the hose due to possibility of paint chemicals causing the hose to degrade. Good probably that nothing would happen but I always seem to be the one that hears "I have been doing this for a long time and I have never seen that happen before"
When I did mine I used a push on connecter to connect the old line to the new line
and was able to pull the old line out and the new line in. I also pulled a string
through when pulling the lines out incase I ever need to pull a electrical wire though,
just incase.
I did the same thing but after I pulled all the chase covers in the bays and cut the zip ties that bundled the fuel line with the overhead wires.
Use expandable vinyl braided covering. It makes pulling in new hose 100X easier and is available in different colors. I use it for everything electrical or fuel hoses. Rodents don't like it. It also stiffens the hose a little so it's easier to guide into where you want it. It will also expand over any fittings. Fire restive type available too. vinyl braided loom expandable | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=vinyl+braided+loom+expandable&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=vinyl+braid+expandable&_osacat=0)
Photos shows it used over wiring.
Pierce
Wow! Great idea. I would think it worth the cost of it saves one hour of struggle-feeling like a failure if a hose hangs up in a hidden space. Do you order the covering size to match the outside diameter of the hose, or next size up?
I have been out looking and measuring. I am coming up with figures different from other people. Different sizes on different FT models? Different locations for generator? Etc? I would plan to add a few feet for "safety." If you have your own figures for a 1998 U-320, or knowledge, please let me know.
Here are my estimates:
For engine:
from tank fitting to the central channel - 3'
from channel entrance to exit in front of filter - 18'
from channel exit, curve to filter housing - 3'
(line from filter to engine is recent)
(two short woven lines on engine temporarily excluded)
For return:
from engine fitting to exit of channel - 22'
from channel exit to fitting - 3'
Total for engine 49 feet
For generator:
from generator body to exit on side (allow for loop) - 4'
from side opening to channel exit - 9'
from channel exit to fitting - 3'
two times! (small lines on generator temporarily excluded)
total for generator 32 feet
Aqua hot:
(filter is inside AH compartment)
from tank fitting to channel - 3'
from channel to AH fitting - 3'
two times!
total for Aqua Hot 14 feet
No, outside diameter. Hard to describe but say you have a RG-6 cable with a fitting on the end. The fitting is larger but when you push the expandable (key word) vinyl on, you hold the end and sort of bunch it up and it expands so it goes over the end fitting. It can be loose over the hose/cable and if you give it a pull, it tightens. Amazing stuff. I then trim it so it's even at the ends and then use shrink wrap to make a nice clean job with no little strands sticking out.
Pierce
On my 99 40' 295 I used 50' I ordered 50 box of 5/8, 1/2, 3/8 of trident cheaper to
Buy by the box
I have been checking prices and I see that. What is the 5/8" for? I saw that listed several times in the older threads, but I don't think I have any on my coach. Am I missing something?
5/8th hose is used for the engine fuel line on my coach.
Getting closer!
I found a 2556-10 line going through the coach. That is the 5/8. It looks like the return is a 2556-8, or a 1/2 inch. Do you remember if your return line was a 1/2 inch?
My return line is half inch, including the fuel cooler if yours is so equipped.
And, if no fuel cooler as OE, ADD ONE.
A small to medium size Hayden transmission cooler in the return line works just fine. If you are "fine tuning" be able to fit a cover over it in really cold temps. Dianne made a cover for ours that I could Velcro over it. If driving in sub-freezing temps, you can over-cool fuel with a fuel cooler!
If driving in sub-freezing temps, you can over-cool fuel with a fuel cooler! 😬😬😬😬 that ain't going to happen 30s and I'm outa there. Just saying
I ordered 5/8", 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" line, all Trident. I ordered small amounts of 5/16" and 3/16" for the surface lines of the generator.
I ordered the nylon sleeve stuff in various sizes - I can see that stuff making the pulling of the lines much easier, and protecting them as well.
I am investigating the fuel cooler. I suppose the ones with the integral fan would make installation location much easier.
I will report the amount of lines used for future reference. Gimme a couple of weeks.
Just mount it on the outside of CAC just like my factory set up. On the return line.
Wife Kelly knits - maybe she can make a cover. I am thinking kitchen garbage bag and some duct tape. I am not like some of our brave forum mates that do single digits. I am cool with nights in the 20s. Last Year, I bought one of those hunting coats with the removable inside jacket, draw-string hood, zippered this, velcroed that. I should have bought one half a century ago. I LOVE that coat!
Yes fuel cooler can be cooled by engine hydraulic driven radiator fans no need to add another issue down the road. Good to see you are addressing the generator and aqua hot. You also have several lines on the engine. This would be the time to change those also. They have crimped ends and any hose shop should be able to take your hose and make new lines. IMO removing drain plug helps to protect floor from tank damage when removing. No problem getting out, but care must be taken to put back in. Too hot for me, I'd wait for September. I used a forklift to side tank onto and made a spoon to reinstall out of some 1/4 x 2 inch strap. Keep all your lines fuel free till you have verified a good kink free installation. I used the trident and would again. I also reused fitting, just be careful removing them from old line and I had extra plugs I screwed into fitting so I could use a dead blow hammer to reinstall. Pulling new line in with old is the way to go. Cut off fitting and install barbed splice fitting to pull. When tank is removed this is the time to repair your failed vent holes.
Basement floor pass thru vents (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41048.msg408108#msg408108)
I also painted forward bulkhead and applied moisture proof tape to corners of tank compartment to seal. If your tank has fiberglass end covers they should be also sealed to prevent spilled fuel from getting under tank.
Scott
Lots of good advice there, Scott. I will look at the vents.
I am interested to see how much the tank weighs, or maybe I am not! I removed the 100-gallon tank in our previous coach to get a split welded, and I was able to get it from skids into the back of my truck by myself. I am guessing this one will weigh a lot more.
I have already thought through removal of the old fittings. We had a dash AC refrigerant leak on the coach when we got it. Someone had cut off a leaky fitting and reused it with hose clamps. No issue with that. When they cut it off, they left a cut in the fitting itself that could not be stopped by the clamps. A nice little channel from end to end. Disassembly, a little sand paper, and all is good now.
This will be a big and nasty job. I plan to replace all of the hoses I can - those on the engine will be sent out.
So far, I am OK with the heat. Days of 100 degrees or more, I take more breaks. Days over 110, I will stop work by late morning and do stuff inside.
Matt, Monaco tanks are steel our Foretravels are aluminum. I manhandled mine out onto a motorcycle lift to roll around. Reply #15
Fuel lines (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=26797.msg216824#msg216824)
I had no trouble manhandling the tank out and in. The Monaco I had the tank
was aluminum.
Primary reason for fork lift was it was onsite, and easy to adjust height. Ie use what you have available. Absolutely not needed but then again I am kinda lazy. Biggest thing is having a place to accommodate sliding tank out. Coach is eight feet and so is tank. Couple extra feet minimum on both sides and some additional working room. I used a cable across two of the mount holes for a handle to help pull out.
Scott
I would be using the forklift too! Nice thing to have around.
I recently bought one of those hydraulic lift tables, which should be handy for supporting the tank. I have a heavy-duty come-along which will be a good persuader when I get the path otherwise clear. The winch on the FJ would be overkill - more likely to damage something.
I still need to get some barrels to store the fuel. I am around 1/4 tank, which is still a bunch.
All of you - thanks for the guidance on preparing for this job. I will report the amounts of hose used, and likewise anything unique I learn.
CL or Marketplace frequently have food grade plastic containers that will easily hold a quarter tank. 55 Gallon Plastic Food Grade Barrel - farm & garden - by owner - sale (https://sacramento.craigslist.org/grd/d/55-gallon-plastic-food-grade-barrel/7340282111.html)
Pierce
That's what I used and got it for twenty.
50% tax in California. >:D
Pierce
When did California taxes go down to 50%????
Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139
The paint was on the old hose and fittings, onto the tank by the fittings.Zip ties are great if you can reach fittings.My tank didn't come out far enough with hoses attached to reach much. I didn't paint the new hoses. I ended up cutting one line to get tank out!
I see lots of great idea's posted here, but also see a lot of overthinking it. I did mine myself in 2 6hr 100 degree days, none of it was a big deal. Pumped tank into 50 gallon drum, slid it out, dropped belly covers,pulled hoses, had new ones made up with new fittings, installed them. Used snake over rear area. Also did gen. Put tank in, pumped fuel in. Used small drill pump to prime to filters. Engine fired right up. Have fun, just more stinky then anything.
Chris
And on my '03 I didn't have to pull the tank.
Fuel line project is finished. A few things:
1. A box of 50 feet of fuel line costs about as much as 35 feet.
2. It is nice having some extra - run it and trim to fit.
3. I wondered a lot about a sealer for the existing fittings. Turned out I never loosened them. Other than the Aqua Hot supply... for reasons unknown, I wanted to see how long the dip tube was. Probably about 1.5 inches from the bottom of the tank.
4. That woven plastic sleeve makes the lines slick for easier pulling.
5. I pulled the engine lines from front to rear, using a hose barb splice. I pulled from the fuel tank compartment to the storage bay, with one side of the metal tray loosened. Then to where the fuel lines exit the bulkhead, Then to the engine-transmission area.
6. I added a fuel cooler, and it was a convenient time to do that. Between the grill and the CAC. Much easier than I thought.
7. The generator fuel lines were stuck in the front metal chase. I cut them, left the bits in there. I ran the new lines through PVC pipe for protection.
8. The supply line for the generator got pinched. I had to pump out the tank and nearly remove it again to get access.
9. The AH lines were easy, just push them through the hole.
10. I used the fuel filter purge pump to prime the engine. Started, coughed, stayed running. After fixing the generator line kink, I used a vacuum hand pump to draw the fuel through the fuel filter. For the AH, I turned it on and it started right up!
11. I didn't drain the fuel lines before I started. I probably drained about a quart into a pan from the cut ends, and later drained another quart from the removed lines.
12. This was a dirty, stinky, hot, painful job. (It was 100-105 degrees for several days.) Still glad I tackled it. Were I to do it again. I would pull the coach on 4-6 inches of wood for additional lift. The space from the suspension blocks was helpful, but a few inches would have make it easier.
Thanks to you guys for great advice on this project. I thought for a bit about hiring this job out, but the stories of permeable hose, having two stooges failing to start the engine for an entire day, and other hijinks convinced me I was the guy.
-Are the push connectors better than the original threaded fittings?
-Will push connectors work with trident?
-I have known the rigid air lines can work with push connect, even the Pex water hoses do,
Doesn't trident have soft layer on the outside?
-Can you please describe why the expandable vinyl covering will make the hose slide easier? Is it because its shiny and slippery?
-How can be dressed on the existing wires?
Specially in the tunnel?
-I have heard that pushing generator's hoses through its too hard due to bunch of turns
Will these covers help or create a larger diameter and get harder to follow the twists and turns?
-Aren't the tank fittings right in the middle, in line with the tunnel? If yes why i read above , 3 extra fit of hose from tunnel's exit to the tank connectors?
Asking all these questions is to do this project professionally
Edmond
Three extra feet to reach the tank fitting when the tank is still half-way out. I could not creach them with the tank in. No usable access from the tunnel to the tank.
The sleeve does make the fuel line slicker, and maybe a little less likely to kink. Not very thick. Recommended to me,and I recommend it to you. Pushing it on the fuel line expands the weave so it slides on. Slide and pull, slide and pull... Good abrasion resistance when installed. You will likely see one or two old hoses nearly worn through.
Our coach has press on? Slide on? Fittings. They are slightly tapered, and I dampened the hole in the hose with some fuel and shoved. If I remember right, the only fittings I bought were barrel connectors to temporarily attach new hose to old.
Our generator hoses would not move. I ran plastic conduit to protect them.
I THINK I left a full write up with new line lengths, procedures, etc around the Forum somewhere.
Ask us anything!