I can start my Power tek 10k and it will idle but its pretty smoky (grey). It has low hours (1700) but when I start it up it seems to idle correct around 1500 RPMs or so, but then drops immediately down to a low idle (possibly 800 RPMs). I replaced fuel filters, topped off the coolant. I disconnected the exhaust to pull out the genny and removed a lot of loose insulation. When I put the breakers into position for load (45 each) I go to turn on the AC but its not turning on (no Fan). The AC will run (on Shore power). Ive looked pretty extensively at the forums and looked for any noticeable fuel leaks but havent found any. Tomorrow I plan to inspect the intake hose to see if I might uncover some obstruction, but the inside air cannister and filter are clean as a whistle. I also plan to change the oil since I will be in the cabinet anyway. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also would love to talk to someone since I have not used the coach yet and could use some friendly advice. Jimmy (972-310-7954) (2002 U320)
The generator should run at 1800 rpm all the time. It needs to run that rpm in order for the generator to put out 60 Hz . If the generator is running at 800 rpm it will not be putting out the correct HZ and I am guessing the voltage will not be correct.
The governor is the device that makes sure the engine is running at the correct speed. There are others on this board that have knowledge as to what to check. I would open up the control box and see if any wires are loose or disconnected.
Ours would not run smoothly and die with a load. I changed filters but the problem turned out to be the fuel line that had a million tiny cracks. Easy way to check is to put fuel in a gallon container and put a short supply hose to where the tank supply line went.
Is the radiator and plastic tank full of coolant?
Pierce
As turbojack said your generator should only run at 1800 RPM, no load or full load.
The governor is at the front of the engine. I would do a Pierce said and use an outside
source and run a fuel line to the fuel pump and see if it runs properly that way.
Do not put a load on your generator until the engine is running at 1800 RPM as you
could damage the generator or the thing you are powering.
thanks for the tips. it's hot today, so i'll plan on doing the fuel line (test tomorrow)
found out the problem was starvation of air. when i pulled the intake hose off she ran perfect. so i put it on and it collapsed the hose. i think it was the spring being out of position, after that she ran perfect.
however it did overheat. tomorrow i plan on rechecking the coolant level and making sure the fan turns on.
any good tips to make sure it's not a thermostat or water pump?
Jim,
If you haven't done so check the water pump belt for proper tightness. If you have no idea as to the last time the belt was changed you might give some thought to replacing it.
If the coolant is found to be low you may have to purge the trapped air out of the system to get the thermostat to open properly.
Mike
thanks Mike! is there a write up to purge the air?
Once we had some Insulation fall down and get into the intake shutting down the generator.
Jim,
With all the different power units and set ups there don't seem to be just one procedure. Some units have several pet cocks that can be opened and vent the air out. Just look around your unit for some way to vent air from behind the thermostat housing and the top of the engine. Some set ups have air vents pet cocks on the radiator so look around there also. Once you find the vents just crack them open one at a time while the engine is running. Some have a couple of vent hoses that go from major air trapping spots and ends at the surge tank with valves. I have had times that even with these with hoses I have had to loosen the hose to get it to purge. I know this isn't an exact how to but hopefully it will give you some things to look for.
Mike
Jimmy,
Would you mind putting your coach info in your profile signature? That way, every post you make will show that info at the bottom and make it easier for folks to provide answers specific to that year coach.
Michelle
First time I had generation issues there was a wire disconnected in my control box above the generator where the breaker is. Most of my other stuff is relocated into the squirrel cage fan box below the driver seat. I found that when they had relocated some of the electronics they didn't do a very good job of it, some of the wires just were not crimped properly. The second time I had generator problems was due to airlock in the cooling system. The way I solve that issue was to keep bleeding the system over and over again until all air was out.
Recently I replaced the motor mounts, the generator head bearing, and the voltage regulator. While doing that I found that the air intake hose that leads from the generator box to the air filter housing and then into the engine pretty bad shape. I went to a local O'Reilly's and got some heater hose that worked for a little while but eventually I'm going to have to find something a little bit sturdier. It wouldn't surprise me if the heat from the generator running for extensive. Will melt the plastic of the hose.
Also note that those 45 amp breakers are no longer available and if yours goes bad the one that they will send you from powertech is overpriced and smaller than the 45 amp eaton breaker that is there now.
That breaker is available on eBay for a significant reduction in price over what powertech charges
Not sure why they use the 45 amp breaker but power tech the shirt needed at the 50 amp was fine you have to just make sure that it's the right one with 2 120 volt legs.
Not saying that your issue just noting a fact.
Good luck with getting your generator working properly. I use mine for an hour or two yesterday top off my batteries while I'm docking since it was raining most of the day and not much sun out there, while running the convection oven for 1 hour.