Is it safe to run the engine while the coach is up on safety stands? First off I would like to view some components while the coach is running and second while the coach is stationary in the winter I will be putting coach on safety stands while level and would like to start the engine from time to time. Is the weight of the coach enough to keep the coach safe with the engine vibration?
Why sure, providing your safety stands are sufficient to support the coach. The motor doesn't care support or not.
I am using 8 2x2 by 12 inch hitch extensions. As strong as most I presume
I would feel very safe in those conditions.
Why would you want to start the eng " from time to time?"
Two reasons
Where I am the coach is basically level but when the bags start to leak over a few days it settles down on the tires. Yes the compressor is supposed for take care of that but it is quicker with engine running. The reason for the safety stands actually is to keep the coach off of the tires.
The second reason is I re wired my step to remain closed with the engine and ignition switch off. But After the air brakes bleed down the step falls open again.
Can you not just push it closed by hand? I open and close our step manually all the time when the air system pressure is depleted.
You may already know this, but if not...
The objection to running the big engine for short (stationary) periods is that it encourages formation of condensation in the crankcase. Condensed water dilutes the oil. Not good. It is hard to get the engine up to full operating temp while letting it idle (even at fast idle). For this reason some Forum members avoid the practice, if there is any other alternative.
But, it is your coach, so DWMYH.
It should be OK. I once backed the coach into the barn while on the stands. Very odd. Make a big tag that hangs on the steering wheel while the coach is on stands.
If your goal is to keep the coach off the tires then you could cut 8 pieces of douglas fir 4x4 shorter than the spacing at ride height (make it easy to get in) and put them in. It will support the coach when it comes down on them. Douglas Fir has a 7200 psi compression strength, 2"x3.5" contact area, > 12,000 lbs each with a safety factor of 4.
2x2x1/4" wall tube works too.
Use a auxiliary air compressor connected to the fitting you would use of you would air up a tire.
Then check air bags in the quiet.
Chuck
Exceptional point about the engine running. Perhaps it is just better to start when going somewhere. I always thought it was better just to run it....
A lot folks will disagree with me here! But here goes, I seriously doubt you will live long enough to damage your Diesel engine by starting as need without a complete warmup. 40 some years as fleet mechanic/manager never seen one damaged by that. Especially when most folk change their oil way more than the recommended interval.
Hmmmm. Both good points! Love this forum!
Peter
I don't disagree.
I left myself an out. I said "...avoid the practice, if there is any other alternative".
If no other alternative, then I will start my engine for short runs and not lose any sleep over it. Do what ya gotta do! :thumbsup:
I did equip our coach with a 115V air compressor (and water filter) that pumps directly into the wet tank. That way I can pressurize the air system any time I want without needing to run the engine. Very handy in crowded camp grounds, when I do not wish to disturb the neighbors. Before an early departure, I use the compressor to bring the air system up to 100 psi or so. Then when I crank the engine the coach is ready to roll with no delay.
They start 'em for short runs wherever you take them for service.
There may be a check valve right behind the quick connect that won't allow air in.
Think for a moment,if you install the safety stands where do you think the weight will be ?,it will still be on the tires,if you want
the weight off the tires get jackstands and get the tires off the ground.
Then one must get creative.
You could simply remove the check valve. Problem solved.
Or, add the "wet tank aux filler connection" at some other point in the system.
On my coach there is at least one extra threaded hole on the wet tank where a additional air line could be connected.
Several Forum members have installed a "T" connector in the line between the engine air compressor and the air dryer. That way the air from the supplementary compressor goes through the stock dryer. :thumbsup:
I have done mechanical inspections on 2 Foretravels over the years where significant rust was found when looking in the valve cover. Starting the engine without getting the OIL up to operating temperature WILL add moisture to the engine. Do it often enough and you will make a rusty mess. Once, twice, ten times-- likely no problem.
But, have to ask WHY you want to start it and not drive it? My suggestion is if possible, take it out once a month for a "bonding experience" of 25+ highway miles. That helps the tires, seals and yes is a good "re-bonding experience".
I agree with the others, saying only start when you can drive to bring up to temperature. When I worked at a large luxury and family rv dealer in the Northwest they would start hundreds of rvs on Friday, idle them for an hour so the batteries were charged up for the weekend sales. They did this until they found out they were spending thousands in the service department because of that practice. Guaranty RV, Junction City, OR., has since announced selling out to Bish's RV. If I'm in the area of my rv in storage, in need of charging the batteries, I start the gen and load it up with turning on the a/c units to bring diesel gen up to temp., charging with the inverter/charger.
What was the expense attributed to?
Taking the coach for a "run" of 25 miles or so just won't work with our Canadian winters! I perhaps could do that every so often in the summer(which isn't just as simple as start and go where my coach is parked!!) Perhaps the best practise for myself would be to exercise the generator every so often and leave the motor alone until a trip is in hand..