The wheel removal and reinstall (proper Torque) has been solved for me. In stead of carrying a $275.00 torque wrench I bought one of these after seeing a buddy of mine with a Newmar use it on his wheels, works really nice.
NEIKO 20743A 3/4" Drive Digital Torque Adapter | 150-750 Foot-Pound |... (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20743A-Digital-Adapter-Foot-Pound/dp/B009GLITFW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Neiko+torque+adapter&qid=1625599185&sr=8-2)
Will still need breaker bar/pipe to get the length.
Hans
Thanks for the info.
I'll add it to my tools when I return home. Probably get the 1/2" drive also.
When I was decades younger that tool would definitely be appealing to me. Now, however, my American Express Gold is the tool I have to use.
No! Just spend about $50 to buy a torque multiplier and then you can remove the wheel, install it with a 1/4" battery impact, use the the torque adapter with the torque multiplier to finish torquing the wheel.
Best to get rid of the big stainless cover for the rear wheels and get a stainless cap for the hub instead. Makes removing the wheel faster and the axle much faster.
Pierce ^.^d
Looks like I out thought myself. The torque adapter will space the torque multiplier out three inches or so and the foot of the multiplier won't be able to have anything to provide resistance. Bummer. Keep the pipe. OK, I owe you a year of 2 cycle advice here on the forum.
Pierce
Neiko makes good stuff. I wouldn't expect anything less. 👍👍
Scott
It looks good but I already have enough torque wrenches to cover anything
I do.
Does anyone here use a torque stick?
Amazon.com: Steelman 3/4-Inch Drive x 33mm (1-5/16-Inch) 475 ft-lb Torque... (https://www.amazon.com/Steelman-16-Inch-Prevents-Over-Tightening-Powder-Coated/dp/B0811Y4DQC/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=torque+stick&qid=1625617130&sr=8-14)
Alcoa calls for 450 ft. lbs. and that is what I have been torqueing to.
When selecting a torque wrench, ensure what range it has been tested at. Many do not test or certify upper or lower 10% of range.
But if you use Never Seize (Never Seez) on the threads, you should reduce your torque 22-25%. It also means you can remove the nuts at with a lower effort, never have to worry about a broken stud and rust on the threads. 450 ft/lbs goes down about 110 lbs. with the NS. Different brands and types of anti seizing compound will specify the percentage for that type. Best Practices for Using Never-Seez® Anti-Seize and Lubricating Compounds -... (https://www.bostik-industrial.com/never-seez-best-practices-for-using-anti-seize-and-lubricating-compounds/) Don't apply to contact surfaces, just threads.
Torque wrenches should be stored at the lowest setting on the scale but not down to zero. Never at a high torque setting.
Pierce
Why not just take a breaker bar, socket and extension, support it on a jackstand, calculate torque based on your body weightXdistance from center of socket and stand on the bar at the calculated point? Works for me.
The torque sticks work with an impact only as far as I know.
That's exactly what I do. A four foot bar, Never Seez, bathroom scale and 340 lbs divided by 4 equals about 85 lbs added or subtracted on the scale depending on what side of the wheel you are on. Installed several big props on aircraft this way also.
And you avoid some tire shops that put 700# or more on each nut. Blanket statement but it only takes one time to make anyone
gun shy.
Pierce
I had snow tires put on my last coach and we calculated that one of the nuts
was 1000 foot pounds so now I do it myself. If I need new tires I will take the wheels
in and put them on myself.
When we return home from this trip I will post a picture of the aft for mentioned tool in use as I will put my brothers take offs on my coach. He is changing tires to get more weight capacity for his Monaco and the tires he is taking off have more weight capacity than my 6700 lb. singles on the front and they are 2 years newer.