Going from a 120v, 20 amp GFCI outlet on the side of the house to the 50 amp connection on the coach.
Option 1: Run either my 100' 12ga extension cord to the dogbone to the 15-to-50 amp adapter at the coach end (top of the pic), or
Option 2: Run the 30' 6ga 50 amp cord from the coach, to another 30' 6ga extension cord, to a 50-to-30 amp adapter then a 30-to-15 amp adapter at the house end (bottom of the pic).
Not going to be running A/C, just keeping batteries charged for the most part.
IMO, the fewer connections the better. Each plug is added resistance. The weakest link (smallest wire, or the circuit breaker) in the chain will determine max amps available at the coach.
A 100' foot 12ga extension cord should be able to handle up to 15 amps continuous (20 amps intermittently)...is that sufficient for your needs?
Option one is what my brother is doing back at my house with his Monaco in the driveway. Not having any issues charging batteries and watching television. Starts his generator for air or microwave.
Sounds like a good place for an inexpensive solar charging system.
I agree that fewer connections is usually better, but on the other hand we're talking 60' of 6ga. wire vs. 100' of 12ga.
What if I were to find a 50-to-15 adapter to replace the 2 dogbones? Would that then be better than the 12ga setup?
6 gauge wire is overkill for your described purpose. 6 gauge will carry 60 amps, but your breaker is only 20 amp. More plugs mean more places for moisture intrusion, and possible accidental disconnection.
Additional thought: How secure is the location? Heavy 6ga extension cords would be more desirable to thieves.
But ultimately, you should DWMYH.
Best 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 Gauge Extension Cord Chart | Atlantic Aspiration (https://atlanticaspiration.com/best-extension-cords/)
Amazon.com: Camco 55353 50 AMP Female Replacement Receptacle: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00192QB9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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Purchase your 12 gauge but understand you are limited on power availablity. Deleats all the additional connections. Circuit breaker should reflect wire size not connectors
Scott
Which ever way you go (I think either would work) be sure the batteries are not low when you start. If batteries not charged when you start the initial surge (bulk charge) may be too much. What I have done to avoid this is have the engine running (so batteries are charged) when I plug in. once no longer a high charge turn engine off and the 20 Amp outlet and extension cord should handle keeping batteries charged, and some small other drains. I have done so with a 15 Amp plug and over 100 feet of extension cord.
Most inverter/chargers have a programmable feature that allows you to limit the amps of 120 VAC used for charging.
Often called power share or power save. That eliminates them from using more amps than you want.
If you are going for the 100 ft extension cord a 10 ga will cost a bit more but will limit voltage loss and other common problems with power distribution extension cords. The 50 amp to 30 amp and then 30 amp to 15 amp connector setup arranges the wires correctly
Here are a couple 50 amp female to 15 amp male direct adaptors.
Amazon.com: Camco RV Dogbone Electrical Adapter with Innovative 180 Degree... (https://amazon.com/Camco-Dogbone-Electrical-Innovative-PowerGrip/dp/B00HRHWHNW/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=16B9OJF7UK0HN&dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+to+20+amp+rv+adapter&qid=1626107634&sprefix=50+amp+to+20+%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNVhPUk9LRkZBREU1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDI1NTc1QlVaNko3Q01ESUZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0OTMzOTgySldBVENDTlkyTVY5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)
This one looks like more to grip when plugging/unplugging the 15 amp connection.
Amazon.com: RVMATE 15 Amp to 50 Amp RV Adapter Cord 12", NEMA 5-15P Male to... (https://amazon.com/RVMATE-Adapter-Dogbone-RIGHT-ANGLE-Indicator/dp/B08HGY5Z3B/ref=sr_1_16?crid=16B9OJF7UK0HN&dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+to+20+amp+rv+adapter&qid=1626107634&sprefix=50+amp+to+20+%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-16)
Amazon.com: RVMATE 15 Amp to 50 Amp RV Adapter Cord 12", NEMA 5-15P Male to... (https://amazon.com/RVMATE-Adapter-Dogbone-RIGHT-ANGLE-Indicator/dp/B08HGY5Z3B/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+to+20+amp+rv+adapter&qid=1626108147&sr=8-16)
I'll tell you what I did and it was free because I already have the stuff. And you know I love free. I hooked up a 3 stage regular old battery charger to the house batteries inside the bay via extension cord (size doesn't matter) and set it to automatic. Occasionally I leave the boost switch on for a day or so to top off the start battery.
I've come up with a new option, one that was suggested by DakotaSlim in a post from a few months back.
He ran a 20 amp circuit for his shore power but used a 50 amp outlet which eliminated the need for an adapter altogether.
Since I have 10 gauge wire from the panel to the outlet, I think I can swap the existing 20 amp breaker out to a 30, and upgrade to a 50 amp outlet on the side of the house. As to how I wire that outlet, I would of course hook up both neutral and ground, and then I think split the hot wire to feed both hot legs that go out to the coach. Does that sound right?
I really want to do more than just charge batteries. I want to run some A/C.
Yes, hot to both outer straights (wire to one, short jumper to the other)
Neutral to center straight
Ground to center round.
Why not eliminate any future confusion (for future owners of your property) and put in a 30 amp RV outlet when you swap out to the 30 amp breaker? If you have the right existing wire gauge to support the 30 amp breaker, it's something to consider. Then just use a 30/50 dogbone on your shore cord.
Yes, it involves an adapter, but one you should carry anyway.
We have had a 30 amp RV circuit/outlet at our most recent 3 homes. Plenty to run 1 A/C and keep the batteries charged. Heck, we lived an entire summer in Maine on 30 amp. You just learn to run only 1 large load at a time (one a/c, micro/convection oven, clothes dryer, espresso machine...)
Dan, In your initial post, you said no AC, I noticed in your last post you said yes to the AC.
I definitely would not run your AC on a 100' 12 gauge cord. It will draw too much amperage for that long a run.
Mine is plugged in with 100ft, 12 g. Works fine but as noted wont run ac in warm weather . It would run a minisplit maybe .
Always be aware of voltage drop with long cables, so it is always better to use larger diameter cables, especially since over time demands may change, like wanting to use microwave or some other high amp appliance. Better to go bigger now to enjoy the full use of coach. Even a battery charger can draw over 10 amps of AC.
Yes I did originally say no A/C, but now I'm thinking that if I use my 50 amp cord with 6 gauge wire the voltage drop will be minimal. And I'm also planning to install a SoftStart on the A/C unit so I can run it on 30 amps.
If all you need is a 50 amp receptcle there are very nice
Connecticut Electric CESMPS54HR Connecticut Ps-54-Hr Weatherproof Power... (https://amazon.com/Connecticut-Electric-CESMPS54HR-PS-54-HR-120240-Volt/dp/B0009R5JRS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=QO5WSTTDFK7&dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+rv+receptacle&qid=1626392473&refinements=p_89%3AConnecticut+Electric&rnid=2528832011&s=automotive&sprefix=50+amp%2Caps%2C268&sr=1-5)
Lots of similar for less, be sure to get one with a lock.
You should have a disconnect just before the recepticle.
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When I had the Monaco I had a 10 gage wire plugged into a 30 amp RV plug
about 80 ft. long. In the winter 2 electric heaters was all that would work and one
of the heaters was on low. I would watch the volt meters and wouldn't run below
110 volts. The Foretravel is plugged into 240 volt 50 amp plug and as I already had a 40
amp breaker that is what I use. That is more power than I need.
I use a 100 ft extension cord I made up using 10 gauge stranded wire, I get no voltage drop when the coach is plugged in at home, it will run the AC without more than a few volts drop. Bought the wire at a big electrical supply and made two 50 ft cords, have been using these cords for years.
Okay here's what I ended up doing. The electrical subpanel in the pool house already had a 20 amp circuit with 10ga wire running approx. 20 feet to an outdoor outlet. Nothing else on the circuit. I replaced the outlet with a junction box and extended the 10ga wire another 40' to a post next to the RV. On the post I put a shutoff switch rated at 30 amps, then a 14-50R outlet with the two hot legs jumpered together. I can plug in the coach's 50 amp power cord without an adapter/dogbone, and the A/C runs beautifully.
Questions/concerns:
The Powerwatch meter in the coach shows 111v when there is little or no load, but drops to 104v with the A/C running. If I check the outlets in various locations throughout the coach with my multimeter, they all show 120v with no load, 113.6v with A/C running. I've checked numerous times in the past week and it is consistently 9-10 volts higher than the Powerwatch. So can I assume the Powerwatch is just wrong, and if so is there a potentiometer inside that I can adjust?
Next: What is the lowest voltage (as measured on my multimeter) that would be safe to run things like A/C in my coach? If it drops to 110 is that okay? What about 105?
Finally, I had intended to swap the 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel with a single pole 30, since I believe the 10ga wire can handle that, but if the coach A/C starts and runs without tripping the 20, is there a reason to do the swap?
Ampacity of wire is temperature and distance dependent. NEC publishes a table, stay within the requirements of that table.
Longer runs and more heat reduces ampacity of the wire
Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139
Go here and click on 30 Amp service. Scroll down to the wire size calculator and voltage drop calculator. At 60 ft+ you are outside the limit for 10 ga. wire for a 20 amp circuit. You cannot put a 30 amp breaker on that circuit and call it good, either.
RV Electric (https://www.myrv.us/electric/)
General recommendation is not to run 120 VAC motors on less than 108 VAC or you will cause damage to them. That includes the air conditioner.
Modification of the 14R-50 receptacle is against code. You might know what you did, but someone else plugging into it won't. (and if you were to have a fire, even if the receptacle wasn't the cause, an insurance company can point to it and say "not to code" and not pay)
It's really a better idea to stick with using components in their intended configuration, even if that means you need to put an adapter on your power cord.
Think of electrical loads as inductive (motors) or resistive (toaster). For voltages lower than about 110:
Toaster just takes longer to heat bread and appliance may last longer.
Motor can draw more amps than designed and overheat motor windings and have a shortened life.
No need to swap 20 amp breaker for 30 amp.