Good afternoon everyone,
Napa has the Valvoline premium blue engine oil on sale.
I noticed that the Synthetic Oil 10-30 is only good for Diesel engines.
the Non Synthetic oil 15-40 is good for both Gasoline and Diesel engines.
I have always used 15-40.
They both have the Cummins endorsement
They are both 8600 ES.
See pics below
I thought Diesel engine oil was different than gasoline engine oil.
Comments
Pics of both
It's not 100% synthetic but a blend. Quote: "CI-4 PLUS" designation identifies oils formulated to provide a higher level of protection against soot-related viscosity increase and viscosity loss due to shear in diesel engines."
Pierce
In the last two years that We've owned the coach the oil has always been changed at Cummins and has been regular oil.
I'm gonna be starting to change the oil myself and just happen to catch that.
I use Shell Rotella in the generator.
Frank,
Consider installing a quick drain on your oil pan. Use a vacuum cleaner to install it and you won't spill a drop even with a full crankcase. A quick drain will insure that you don't cross thread in the future as some have done. That can be expensive. See old posts for the quick drain installation. Nive to have the flush type so nothing on the road can damage it.
Cummins owners on the forum will have the right part number for your M11.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce,
I've looked into those quick drains because I've read the threads on people damaging the oil drain threads.
Another thing to worry about whether I do the damage or the mechanic doing the oil change.
I'm not a mechanic but do change the oil in both cars and motorcycle.
Always put the bolt in by hand then snug with a wrench never torque.
Don't know if the oil drain plug can be found with a hole on the bolt head so it can be safety wired.
😎
Once the quick drain is screwed in, you're home free. No need for a safety wire. Makes it easy to drain one gallon at a time and not a drop spilled.
Pierce
Remember, you have aluminum threads that are easy to crossthread. Read the stories about it. I have a steel pan but still put the quick drain in. If you change your own oil, buy a real strap wrench that uses a 1/2" or 3/8" ratchet instead of the funky lever. Follow the instructions on the side of the filter for tightening. If you purchase a strap wrench that does 6 inch diameter filters, it will also change the spin-on type of air dryer cartridge.
Using a screwdriver or giant water pump pliers to remove the filter is not Foretravel.
Pierce
Frank I would be more concerned about pulling those fine aluminum threads out of your oil pan. Might not be your fault but the accumulation of prior over torquing. You actually gave me a idea I would of done if I hadn't already installed a quick drain. I would of pulled the old plug out and drilled and tapped a 5/8 drain plug in the center of the original plug and never again removed the big plug again. No safety wire needed IMO really wish I had thought of this prior to installing quick drain. I also would add a magnet to the center of the 5/8 bolt/plug to collect steel fines. Do the same thing to my other drain plugs when removed.
Scott
I'm using Shell Rotella t4 in both engines Frank.. Won't debate but it's worked for trucking companies for 5 decades that I know of. I don't know enough about synthetic to even comment but have had considerable experience with Shell and Delo for conventional oil. We've not had an engine failure due to lubrication that I know of with the 2 brands I mentioned. Thinking about adding a quick oil drain to my coach but since I change it myself I haven't been in a rush because I am not going to cross thread. Quick drain is a handy way to drain no doubt. You will feel better about your lube service after you start doing it yourself.
From what I have read, damaging the threads on the pan has been caused by the accumulation of particles on the magnetic drain bolt when being removed. Of course the threads can be damaged by cross threading or over tightening.
The "no spill" plug will be here this Thursday and we will head up to the coach next week .
Don't know if I will use the vacuum to change the plug first or just remove the plug and let it drain on its own.
Ralph,
Some plugs with the magnet was too long exposing about 3 threads beyond the inside of the pan. The particles were caught in the root of the exposed threads. If the plug was forced out the threads sometimes came out of the pan. It was recommended to work these plugs back and forth to help clear the threads.
Mike
Very few wear items inside the engine are magnetic. Cam Chain drive, lifter face and cam.
If you are going to keep the OEM plug that would be a good idea. I have several of those plugs around here that have been removed and a quick drain installed. If you don't want to do the machine work Cummins has a short drain plug but you need a good/great parts man to find the proper number.
Mike