It's finally stopped raining so I can get to the roof fix, I have a split across the roof immediately above the door. It goes all the way to the top rails. When I had cut out and back the fiberglass skin that's when the culprit showed it's self !
Under the fiberglass is 1/4" plywood that had detached on both sides of the split, I guess that will happen when two pieces of plywood are butted together where the flex point is. Pucker factor.
So I've got one side glued down with a straight board and a weight on top, now it's wait till my glue sets then do the other side. Then the fun begins, it's been years since I've fiberglassed anything. I sourced resin and cloth etc from total boats on the theory that if it'll fix a boat then it should be good for my coach roof.
Mick
I alternated layers of cloth and mat. Six, as I recall.
Mick,
I know it increases your "work load" but hope you will take photos of your roof repair process. Every documented repair or upgrade project that is posted here adds to the value of the Forum. By posting a record of your work, you help other members with a similar situation decide if it is something they want to attempt themselves, or if it is better left to professionals.
Mick, a bit of advise after you lay your last sheet of mat and resin take a sheet of wax paper and lay over your work and a roller and work out any air bubbles out, the wax paper will leave a nice smooth finish and then when it drys peel or sand it off. It works great boat guy suggested it to me.
Get a grooved roller to roll out the glass mat or fabric into the resin and get rid of bubbles. Use a brush to apply a thin layer of resin and then apply the mat or fabric, roll it out, add more resin if needed. You want a fairly dry layup, just enough resin to get the mat or fabric wet and covered. First and last layer is usually mat.
Longdex Bubble Paddle Tool 3Inch Aluminum Head Fibreglass Laminating Roller... (https://amazon.com/Longdex-Aluminum-Fibreglass-Laminating-Bathtub/dp/B08XJW1KBD/ref=sr_1_36?crid=TXLRZA94XLRF&dchild=1&keywords=fiberglass+roller+tools&qid=1629660130&sprefix=Fiberglass+roll%2Caps%2C252&sr=8-36)
I'm at about 80% done on clearing the dicor off, finish that and then sand and prep for glass. Big hurdle now is getting the plywood underneath to lay flat so as I can get the seam tight. Both sides are puckered up about an inch and with nothing but insulation underneath that, so nothing to glue to.
I'm thinking about weighing the seam down in say 3 places then a few layers of 4" glass bandage in between, let that set up and fill in the gaps. It won't be perfect but I'll get it as flat as possible. That's the best fix I can come up with right now, however a brighter light may come on ?
I wonder if putting a full sheet of plywood at the flex point might have worked out better rather than a butt joint ?
We recently had a new roof installed on our house ($$$) including new decking. The roofers used special clips in between the sheets of OSB. Would these be of any benefit in your situation?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db0abk4Nqtw
Mick do have a picture of your work I would like to see what your dealing with. If possible?
Great suggestion Chuck, thanks for the idea !
Roger, I still have all my glass tools, wide and narrow rollers, even a corner/seam wheel, but ta any way.
Andy if I could post photos I would, ......however
When Rance at Xtreme is joining panels he uses a metal bar across the joint with screws on either side of the joint to align them. Then he uses a 2 part urethane panel adhesive that fills in the gap and bonds the two sides together. Once cured up (quick) the bars are removed and (if I recall correctly) fills in the gaps with the same stuff. When cured he grinds it smooth and starts glassing it up.
Amazon.com: Norton 636425-04616 SpeedGrip Urethane Structural Adhesive :... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00AYBPVYU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I had a 4'x6' area on my roof that needed to be replaced. I replaced the insulation, then I replaced the plywood with marine grade. On top of the plywood layer I used a FRP sheet then feathered the edges into the surrounding fiberglass glued to the plywood with 5200 adhesive. I then fiberglassed the four seams and covered with gel coat.
I ran into the same problem because I'm stupid. The half of the sheet that was flat I cut diagonally too short by an inch. Exactly one inch. The opening I had cut into the roof was square. So I used the other half of the sheet. The half with the bends from being mishandled. And I fought it to a temporary truce with weights, plastic separators and glass tape.
Since this is my forever home, I know I'll be up there again, so the plan moving forward is to build 2' by 8' roof repair panels on a purpose built table and cut them into the roof as necessary because I admit I can no longer work on my knees.
So my answer is to use plywood panels that lie flat naturally and glue them to the existing aluminum framework Some of the screws on my skylight go into the frame.
Mick to post pictures try the reply button (not the quick reply). The reply button brings up the magic screen where you can add files/stored pictures. Took me a while to figure this out.
In either case hitting the Preview button and scrolling up exposes the "Drop or Select files here" area. FWIW, I'm decimal point challenged so I had to sit down with pen and paper to sort out the file size limitations.
If this works then you can see the separation.
Fanks Phred you may have created a monster, if I can still remember how to do this in a couple of days haha
IT WORKS! Congratulations.
Winner winner chicken dinner 👍😎😁
It DOES, WOW I don't know how many times I would quick reply, then decided to add photo. I would copy, switch to standard reply and then paste just so I could add photo
Using the Roger/Rance idea I made up some cleats from plumbers perforated strap, #7 1/2" wood screws. That flattened the seam and pulled it together. Next.
And the photos didn't? Mmmm
Maybe this works?
I was able to measure the thickness of the roof inside the skylight opening with my calipers. I then set my portable circular to to .010"-.015" less than that amount and proceeded to cut carefully laid out squares and rectangles until I found good wood. Using a utility knife to remove the final layer of veneer.