Coach is making it interesting this morning.
Beeping, Check Engine message. At one point, luckily in front of Walmart, Stop Engine message came up.
Eng Oil PR at 20 psi
Coolant Temperature 203
Engine Oil Tempersture at 200
What to do, what to do?
The Forum tech "experts" will soon respond, but from my experience (different engine) your coolant and oil temps seem kinda high, and oil pressure seems low.
Under what conditions did you see the above reported readings?
Go grab a cup of coffee. Let things cool down some and then check fluid quantities, belts to water pump, hyd pump etc. check connector to ECM for a start..
jk
It was beeping when I aired up this morning at RV park, even after I got to Travel Mode. Check engine light was on but I was 5 minutes past my check out time at RV park. All gages looked fine so I got out knowing Walmart was 1 mile away.
Engine temperature started creeping up and RED Stop Engine came on. Pulled into walmart.
Under those conditions, I would say your temps are too high.
Takes a few miles on the road before our engine even gets to normal operating temp (185).
Did you notice if your engine cooling fans are turning?
I'm sitting at a safe spot out of the way in the Walmart parking lot. It is pouring rain in sunny Florida right now. Radar has rain ending at around 1 pm. I'll let the rains pass and also let the engine cool down before I get fo the engine.
If I do need antifreeze, what kind is recommended for this boat? Would Wallmart tyically carry it?
I have pulled the manuals out for some relaxing read.
Your year coach would have ELC in it unless changed out by a PO. Final Charge is usually found at Walmart's and would be what to use. 20 psi oil pressure at idle is ok for an ISM. 203 water temp would be ok climbing a grade oil temp the same. Those numbers don't set off any alarms or red circles in my VSMpc
Sent you a PM
The engine temperature gage was climbing into a range I have never seen before. Even when climbing hills and at high speeds. Very unusual temps after just getting on the road. I guess coolant levels and belts would be the first thing to check.
You do not have any belts in your cooling system, all gear driven including the hyd. pump for the motors. Remember the plastic reservoir is not the tank that circulates the coolant, just a extra tank.
Peter said he started engine and drove 1 mile to Walmart where he is parked.
Coolant level in the metal tank has a sensor on his coach.
I think that was it.
There was no coolant in there. I have already poured 4 gallons of SupeTech OAT from wallmart and it will take more. The white overflow tank is empty.
How many gallons to fill from empty?
I'm going in for more juice
This is where the VMSpc comes in handy. You can see what the code is and know exactly what to look for. 2004 U320...I'm guessing ISM? If so, I hope that SuperTech stuff meets Cummins criteria. It's kinda specific. Sounds like you've found one issue (coolant). Hopefully that solves your beeping and issues.
The next and more important question is "Why are you 4+ gal low?"
Rich
If it's an ISM450 I believe it takes about 16 gallons, but it doesn't mean you need that much to fill.
Did you notice any coolant under the coach?
When was the last time you saw coolant in the over flow tank.
You need to change the coolant when you get home. That Super Tech isn't for Cummins engines.
Beeping gone. 7 gallons to fill black tank. And I still have not put in any into white overflow tank because I need an appropriate funnel to get into that tight corner.
I'm an idiot, obviously. The moral of this story is to have a ckeck list. Better to not be an idiot to begin with. I'm good at checking tire pressures, and engine oils. Had not checked coolant. Why you ask? That's what happens when you leave on a trip in a hurry.
Because of rain, it is hard to check for any leaks now, but I need to do so ASAP.
SupedTech is OAT. But, not good for Cummins?
Everyone, thanks for all your help. A special thanks and a boy scout badge goes to Rudy for his telephone call.
Let this be a learning experience for all. It was certainly for me. I was extremely lucky to be at the entrace to walmart when the Stop Engine warning came up.
It is also good that I'm a member of the very ancient Stoic/Stoicism club. Because when you own a bus, you learn to go with the flow.
In addition it is also very fortunate that I have a reservation at the World of Beer place in Ft. Myers FL, a Harvest Host site. After this, I need a drink.
Peter,
With that substantial a leak, you need to find the source before driving.
Be sure to check engine oil and transmission oil for signs of coolant contamination. If found, do not even start the engine!
Not going anywhere.
I just found the leak. A bad one. If I can't get to it myself, it will be time to call a mobile tech
That size leak should be very easy to find!
Your 2004 came OEM with Shell Rotella ELC extended life coolant. Mixing coolants can cause issues.
Flush out, change filter, find proper ELC coolant. Readily available at Tractor Supply in the concentrate (best value, mix with distilled water) and pre-diluted 50:50 flavors.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/shell-rotella-elc-antifreeze-1-gal?cm_vc=-10005
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/shell-rotella-heavy-duty-50-50-anti-freeze-550041810?cm_vc=-10005
Oil and trans fluid look normal?
See where the leak is coming from if the oil/trans fluid looks good?
Once you get to where you just need to fill the overflow tank, I use a solo cup. You can squeeze it slightly to make it fit into the space. Slow but you usually don't need but 1-4 cups.
The alarm would have been from the low antifreeze sensor.
Found the gremlin
That's half the battle! Now to find a replacement, should not be too hard if you are in a Walmart area. Oreilly, Advanced, Autozone, Napa (I bet they have it for sure)
\
Hard to tell from the picture but it looks like someone put a straight hose on where a molded one goes and it tore.
Where is that hose at?
Can you post a few pics
I would give Foretravel parts department a quick call or, better, an e-mail with pictures to see if they have a PN for that hose.
The mobile truck mechanic just left with the hose. They're trying to locate one.
I'm still confused about what antifreeze I should be using. OAT or not. I haven't had a chance to go through the appropriate manuals.
I thought Rotella ELC NF is OAT.
Mechanic is recommending Command.
What do you guys think?
Can't tell which hose it is, but here's the engine cooling section from the parts manual for a 2003 U320 - should be close to yours
First picture taken from the engine oil dipstick looking from the back of the coach. If you follow the dipstick down you'll see the bright blue/white area in the background. Those are the chassis batteries. The coupler is to the right of the dipstick.
If you noticed, I attempted to stop the leak with duct tape. That didn't work
The second picture taken from the area by the chassis batteries.
The third picture from the passenger side ftom underneath the radiator
In the fourth picture, taken from the area by the chassis batteries shows one of the clamps thay came off from the removed Fernco rubber coupler.
For coolant, two points:
Make sure what you choose meets the Mil specs Cummins designated for your engine.
Not what you have a mixture of coolants, you will need to completely flush before filling.
Never heard of Command.
I would stick with one of the majors that meet your engine's mil-specs AND is universally available.
This is the stuff I have in mine. It's already mixed 50/50 and does not require additive or to be checked with the test strips.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/shell-rotella-heavy-duty-50-50-anti-freeze-550041810-1531201
I am NOT a fan of the pre-dilute coolant. With the many gallons of "capacity" in the hoses, water heater, dash heater core, etc, unless you use compressed air and completely evacuate the whole "capacity", you are better off with the concentrate. Do the last flush with distilled water and then add 1/2 of coolant capacity with concentrate. Then, top off with distilled water. You don't care if it takes 1 or 6 gallons of distilled water. You KNOW when you are through that you will have the proper 50/50 mixture.
Mechanics are having a hard time locating the hose. Hopefully tommorrow.
For now, since the coach was on Rotella I will have the mechanic buy and use that. I have a Tractor Supply store a few miles away. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble unhitching the jeep because it is at an angle from the coach. I'll try to unhitch the coach end tomorrow morning after the monsoons end. First overnight stay at Walmart.
When I get back to Jaysay, I will find a truck service center to do a proper flush and refill.
Is there a filter used with the cooling system? I though I saw someone mention to change the filter?
There is a water filter. Get a blank one no chemicals.
Yep. That's what the truck mechanic told me. It's right in front of the black tank towards the bottom. He says when the antifreeze gets that low, the engine is going to shut things down fast.
All fixed. At $650 a bargain. Great mobile service in a walmart parking lot, to 9 pm and in torrential rain.
Yep, an easy job to do ourselves while parked at home but not while traveling on a schedule.
Everyday an adventure. I love it.
I had a flex connection between the engine block and a big coolant line spring a leak when we were arriving at a COE campground in Georgetown, TX. CoachNet dispatched a tech from Austin who drained enough out to replace the Gates Flex connection (from NAPA) and added 11 gallons of new coolant. $75 plus the cost of the coolant. Another CoachNet bargain. Next time at FOT I had cooling system flushed, the other two flex connections replaced, coolant filter replaced and the system refilled with the appropriate coolant.
Attached is a series of articles on OAT coolant I've collected over the years. Purchased our rig in March 2016 and beginning in Oct 2016 the radiator started dripping off and on, usually when it was cold in the morning, but not consistently. Spoke to FOT maintenance about adding coolant to the overflow tank to replace the lost coolant. They said Final Charge Global 50/50 would work. It's available at Walmart. Had the coolant tested many times since then during routine maintenance and there have been no issues. However, that being said, I presume the mechanics test the freeze protection, but don't know if their tests include a pH test as well. Hope so. I had FOT in the spring of 2019 tighten all the core to radiator tank bolts and add some Barrs Stop Leak. Haven't had any leaks since except the water pump weep hole. I probably need to have the coolant system flushed, but I hesitate to have the system pressure tested because of the previous leaks. Cummins in Las Vegas quoted me $14 coach bucks to replace the radiator in 2019. Don't want to go down that two rut dirt road.