Today I've also got some water leaking out of the wet bay. My fill hose is kept capped, and when I removed the cap, there was pressure there. It seems that when we use the water pump, it's backfeeding the fill line.
First question - can I manually close off that fill valve? I see there is a "x" shaped handle on the top...is that a manual closure? If so, I can close that and then see if I'm still having water pressure at the fill hose.
1.Yes
2. yes
3. Most likely you will find that the check valve (anti back flow to city) is your problem rather than the fill valve.
Mike
Where can I find that little guy?
On my coach it is just after the hose reel.
Some are hid behind the vanity panel (in the service bay) in the piping. It will be in the line from the hose reel to the fill valve.
Mike
So i had the same issue on our coach. Check valve was just after the hose reel in bay. I added a 1/2 pex valve inline when i replaced the check valve as a redundant shutoff. Normally just leave open. Ive been thinking since to remove the check valve altogether and just use the shut off valve. This would also allow me to used the fill hose as a regular hose if I wanted to spray something down with water for whatever reason? I'm my own worst enemy I think sometimes.
Scott
Possibly just debris in the valve. Turn city fill on and off several tmes (with pressure from shore), and water pump on and off several times, and turn that X valve on and off several times. Might clear it.
What Mike said.
You have to take the back panel off in the wet bay of a 2003 and look on the left lower side for the check valve.
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The leak itself may be the hose reel. Address the check valve first, but monitor for the leak after that.
I got rid of the backflow preventer valve after two failures in one season.
Now just have a brass shutoff valve on the inlet to the coach.
And to emphasize - this is an anti-backflow device used to prevent your coach water/plumbing (if fouled for any reason) from contaminating a community water source. It should not be removed/disabled without a robust alternative.
As usual, you guys were right. Pulled the bays apart and got the check valve out. I can blow through it both directions, so that's shot. It's stamped Merrill and uses 1/2NPT female ends. I found their website and it looks like their 850 series valve (machined smooth center area), but they don't offer it in 1/2NPT. I also can't really see what the differences are between the 850 and the 700 as far as function goes, and the 700 series is offered in 1/2NPT.
Anyone have a link to a valve they have used, to save me melting my brain? :)
When I changed mine I just got one from Lowes. It just needs a check
valve.
This should work, it's been a long while since I replaced mine, but I believe it was this one.
Amazon.com: Camco 23303 1/2" Back-Flow Preventer - Lead Free : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-23303-Back-Flow-Preventer-Lead/dp/B000EDUTN6/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B000EDUTN6&psc=1)
Here is what I have used.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-2-in-Lead-Free-Brass-FIP-x-FIP-Spring-Check-Valve-241-2-12-12/309097215?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-309097215-_-N
Mike
Bought this guy since it was made in the USA. 3 times the price, but hey, it's MADE in the USA! :)
Strataflo 3/4" NPT Check Valve Lead-Free Bronze, 1 psi Cracking Pressure,... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XSCS7N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Good for you, Keith. We need to support "Made in USA" items. I remember in my younger days, that we almost always boycotted "Made in Japan" items. Thing is, back then, items made by the J.A.Pam. company LOOKED like the junk they were.
Good for you, Keith. We need to support "Made in USA" items. I remember in my younger days, that we almost always boycotted "Made in Japan" items. Thing is, back then, items made by the J.A.Pan. company LOOKED like the junk they were.
Turns out the check valve was only 1/2 the problem. I had assumed the water was coming back through the check valve and leaking out the end of the hose, even with the cap installed. Today I installed the new check valve and pressure tested the system. Turns out the reel itself is leaking from the center section. Guess a new reel is in order. I hope the replacement reel has the same bolt pattern as the old one.
Or you can take it apart and probably only need to replace the orings in it. Also when you see the price of a new one you might figure out a way to repair the old one. If the check valve is working there should be no pressure on the hose reel from the pump.
When I took the hose reel apart on mine after seeing some leakage, the center mechanism was heavily corroded and not repairable. Mine is made by Glendinning. I remember they made a "marine" version with stainless fittings for more $.
The new models have a freewheeling spindle that doesn't make a clicking sound when you pull out the hose but the whole unit is a little wider that what was installed on my '04.
Link to their web page with replacement parts.
Hosemaster Model M Spool Replacement | Store - Glendinning Products (http://www.glendinningprods.com/store/Hosemaster-Model-M-Spool-Replacement-p19073546)
I figured it was time to replace it. First, it's leaking. Second, when I would turn it on it's side or back, some rust particles were falling out of the motor area. It still ran fine, but it's clearly lived a full life, especially if it's original and 18 years old.
Finish up to this issue/project. It turned out to be a doosey. As I wrote before, the backflow valve was only part of the problem. The other issue was the water reel was leaking. I purchased the Glendinning 05505-12-35 reel from RV Upgrades ( Glendinning 05505-12-35 Model M Hosemaster RV Fresh Water 1/2" Hose Reel (http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Model-M-Hosemaster-RV-Fresh-Water-Hose-Reel-p/05505-12-35.htm) ) which was supposed to be a direct replacement of the original Glendinning 05501 unit, but it's almost a full inch wider than the original model. It would not fit in the bay with the power reel...so I had to replace that too. Ugh. I found the Southwire RH54331RMK unit, which is just over 10" wide, and would fit with the new reel, so I picked that up from Marine Parts Source ( Powered RV Electric Cord Reel - 50 Amp / 33 ft. | TRC SOUTHWIRE RH54331RMK (http://marinepartssource.com/trc-rh54331rmk-powered-rv-electric-cord-reel) ).
The original reels were mounted directly to the basement floor, and I could already see where the nuts and washers on the outside had dented into the bottom. After some reading here, I decided to use 1/8" aluminum plates top and bottom to alleviate this issue. I sourced some 18" square plates and used 1/4-20 stainless bolts to secure it. I also siliconed around all the holes and the edges of the bottom plate to keep water out of the basement.
The original power reel leader seems to be hard-wired into the coach. The cable goes up from the back of the bay, in front of the fresh tank and disappears from sight. Rather than replace it, I decided to remove the connections from the original reel and reuse it. The terminals were covered by a plate that was riveted on, so I drilled those out and exposed the end of the wire. 3/16" post ring terminals were used. Of course those were too small to fit the new reel (1/4" posts), so I had to find 6awg to 1/4" post crimp connectors and buy a hydraulic crimper.
I'll be putting the old power reel and the new leader cable up for sale shortly if anyone is interested in one.