Well guys, as a datapoint for the forum my steering box went from bone dry to very wet and leaking in about 80 miles. 1999 coach with about 75,000 miles. So we got about 22 years out of it.
I was wondering if anyone had the pitman arm tool I could borrow (I can pay a rental fee) and also advice on how to ship the steering box. Do you built a box out of wood to ship it or what?
Thanks!
Mark sorry to hear. We are having the same issue ourselves. I'm planning on just resealing my box because I have no steering issues to address. I don't have a puller, but was planning on making one so I do. I think DavidS in Las Vegas had built several of them so you shouldn't have a issue getting one. If you don't find one reach out to me and I will send ours once ours is removed.
Scott
Make a sturdy wooden box for shipping. These are heavy. Plan on two weeks round trip. Get a shipping tag from RedHead, they have better pricing than you will likely get.
I believe when Bob Fomenko got his from Red Head he shipped it back in the same packing. He ordered one already rebuilt with a deposit which he got back when the old one was received by Red Head. He has a pitman arm puller.
Probably doesn't make any difference but if time is not an issue I would rather get my own box back than one that might be at a much higher mileage.
Thanks for the responses! I am very lucky in that I figured this all out as I was pulling into home so I have both the time and materials. I'd be curious to hear more about how to make the diy pitman arm puller. I can imagine a threaded rod and cut up socket contraption. If it requires welding I won't be able to do it. I think I'll probably build a box out of 2x4's and plywood. I have a ton of scraps lying around so it shouldn't be a big deal. I do think I'll send mine in as I do have a bit of wander and it'd be nice to remove that as a potential cause.
Yes welding will be required and some time on the mill also. I like the idea of cutting apex square threads so that would also require lathe time too. Won't give it much thought till it's time to fabricate. Will also give DavidS a call and ask him for his input.
Scott
Mark, make your shipping box just big enough and pack the steering box tight with paper or something that will resist crushing. Foam peanuts won't work well.
Scott this how I made the puller. The size of the puller is 4 inches wide and
31/4 deep. I used a 21/2 inch holes saw 2 inches from the the bottom for the
center of the holesaw. Then I used a sip grinder to finish. I built out of it out of
1/2 plate except for the slotted piece which is 3/8 thick. The width of the puller
is 21/8. All the measurements are from the inside of the puller. I used a 5/8 th
grade 8 bolt and tapped the plate and then welded a nut on and then retapped it.
I used a 13/8 hole saw to cut a 1/2 thick washer to put over the sector shaft
to protect it. I will get a friend to run a die over the bolt as it just made it.
When I went to buy the bolt there was a 21/2 3/4 bolt with the threads
running all the way that I would have use instead.
Actually the Mexican guys that installed it took it with them and I forgot to tell them otherwise. So if you're in Rocky Point, it's with them...
Plenty available on the forums since David in Las Vegas made a few.
What is roughly the current rate redhead charges for rebuilding your box that you sent in?
Very similar to the Tiger puller made for the M-100
So I was ready to build a puller and checked to make sure I had materials and was also offered to borrow one. I came across this puller and purchased. Cheaper than the time it would take me to make. My current USPS shipping ratting in pretty poor so didn't want to get involved with shipping back and forth and was planning for three steering box's reseals. I ordered a puller for $80 and after I'm done will post to sell for the same price. Usually have time to build and enjoy doing it but couldn't pass it up for the price
Scott
Horizon Tool 18620 Sheppard M100 Pitman Arm Puller | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/334060760464)
Can't beat that price for a puller that comes with a 30 day return policy. Too bad he sold out.
Or ill be making one after its broken lol. Will use Tuesday or Wednesday
I lost the quote from the 1st of summer. It wasn't bad, the issue was they are out like 2 months, and any cores are out about that long.
Hopefully that has changed.
Chris
There is a company in Houston that has a great reputation, I've even heard they help redhead out when their really backed up. They rebuilt the box in my 2000 when I had it.I would use them again when needed... I would get a total rebuild instead of just a seal kit... I would think freight would be considerably cheaper.. wouldn't hurt to give them a call and see..
Chalk's Truck Parts - Mid & Heavy Trucks, Bus Parts - Houston, TX (http://chalks.com/)
Keith
It occurred to me that replacing the seals may be all that is necessary and might save me some backbreaking work of getting the box in and out. For all those that had the box rebuilt with ~70,000 miles did you notice a vastly improved steering feel? Is getting the box rebuilt required to prevent the new seals from just starting to leak? (kind of like valve guides/seals in an engine). For those that replaced the seals, did you do it in place? Do you have any pointers to directions so I can evaluate the process? I have seal removers, drivers, etc and have done all that kind of work before.
On my coach I have a bit of a dead spot that requires me to saw at the wheel a bit unless there is a stiff wind or I get the tires in the grooves just right. I've never been able to determine with any confidence if it is steering box, linkages or bearing preload. It would be nice to solve the issue if such a thing is actually possible.
Mark,
In terms of tightening up on-center feel, you might ask for "before and after" comments from those who have had their Sheppard M100 steering box rebuilt by RedHead.
I posted the size of the balls that Redhead changed in mine to take the play out and the amount of play it removed. Look for the post or I will find it when I get back home and have more time.
Unless the box is mounted differently on the 1999 vs the 1997, the sector shaft seal cannot be replaced without removing the gearbox.
Ah that changes the equation a bit. I'm not too worried about the expense of paying Redhead.
The cost of labor to R&R the box ( unless you do the R&R) will far exceed the cost of RedHead rebuilding the box.
I am doing the R&R but believe me if I do the R&R I definitely don't want to do it again and thus paying professionals to get the full service makes a lot of sense ;)
Look what I found... Calvan Alstart 18620 Sheppard M100 Pitman Arm Puller Sale, Reviews. - Opentip (https://www.opentip.com/Calvan-Alstart-18620-Sheppard-M100-Pitman-Arm-Puller-p-12761429.html?ats=gs) When I bought one the quantity went from 3 to 2 so maybe it's a legitimate retailer ;). That's a price I can stomach versus the $250+ the tiger one is going for.
I believe it was 950 to $1,000. Plus shipping plus shipping the core back, plus I think it was a $500 core deposit. So I think all in all it was about 1200 but don't quote me on that.
I could get online and get into my credit cards statement for that month but I don't even remember what month it was now LOL.
Also keep in mind that they don't keep rebuilt units ready to go there necessarily so there could be a delay in receiving a rebuilt unit if they have no cores there to rebuild.
Also there seems to be a real wide range of what people have paid to get it installed versus installing it yourself. Well I thought about installing it myself I'm glad that I did not as that sucker is pretty heavy and laying on the ground it took two people to hoist it up there. Then you need a third person in the coach to be able to secure the steering wheel column. At least that's the way it worked for us. I think I paid $60 an hour for 4 hours in Mexico for two guys plus me. They brought their own tools but I had to help them out on a few things, including the puller. Thankfully juicesqueezer already had one, which he had made there in Mexico based on specifications from I believe David in Las Vegas. Make sure they put the boot on too before they put the pitman arm back on, and I had my guys put some anti-seize on it that I supplied. I had taken off one of my stainless steel covers that covered the old headlight holes on my coach and I was able to watch and help from a different perspective and angle. And even though I did everything I could to keep that steering wheel straight, I was surprised how much it twisted because of the wiring harness was pulling at it and so we didn't get it aligned exactly right. But I kind of like it that way because now one of the middle spokes is closer to me than the other and I find driving with one hand easier now.
They gave me a shipping label at their cost and added it to the bill. Much cheaper than I would have paid for shipping. I got my own box back sooner than I had anticipated. Some of the hoses I ordered hadn't arrived yet. A good time to change the radiator hoses as you have access from the box under the drivers seat and from behind the generator that was needed to remove the steering box.
If I remember right chalks rebuilt mine for -$600.. then there was the labor to put it in...
Keith
I am wanting to say the cost of the box with shipping both ways was right at $1350.00 for ours!
This is a snaphot of the invoice detailing costs for the redhead steering gear as of March 2021.
This tracks with my cost. Nacogodoches Motorhome Service put mine in and sent mine to them as core. I thought NMS labor fair. I don't have an electric fan on my generator.
Did they credit you the $500.00 for the core?
I received my core credit the day it was delivered back to Redhead.
Yes, $500 was credited shortly after I shipped them my core.