So I've done a search on the forums and I've read what other people have done but still can't get the generator door to release. I cannot pull on the release T handle with my full body weight and strength. So once I get the door open has anybody actually taking that release apart to clean and lubricate it? If so how did you do that cuz I can't figure out a way. The last time I had the door open I looked and I lubricated everything that I could but it still doesn't open. Any suggestions would be helpful.
There are several fixes. Here's an old thread that addresses this issue. Also, make sure the bottom brackets are properly aligning with the rubber bushings. If they are off quite a bit, the upper latches will release but the door won't swing up.
Generator Latch (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38920.msg380788#msg380788)
jor
Thanks Jor. I really like Don's solution by changing the cable out to a glendenning marine cable. I'm going to order one on eBay.
Have someone press door in near top, before releasing latch. Or release & hold latch and then press door in all around. Have to take pressure off latches to let them spring back open.
Pulled the cable pull out of the coach and I screwed a nut on the pull end and
poured oil in it and will keep doing that until oil comes out the other end.
I think there maybe moisture in the pull as last winter I think it was frozen.I looked
at the lining up of the rubber bushings and I think I should lift them and maybe
that will make the top come free. I guess it is hit or miss or there is a way to know how to do it.
I put the cable back in today and the picture shows how I got oil in it. Jor thanks for
the advice about the bottom rollers. It took me awhile to get them adjusted so it opens
on the first pull every time. Bob did you get your door open. I find doing a jerking
pull works better. When I put it together I had the rubber too high so I had to
loosen up the rubbers and drop them to get it opened.
Peter not yet. I've been on the road with other issues LOL. The new cable, marine-grade glendenning stainless steel cable, is going to text hubs house in Uvalde Texas and I'll see if I can get it working then. Luckily I have not had to use the generator.
Bob one time I had to get under the door and pry up on the latches with a piece
of metal and wood would work also. When you pry on the latch it help push it
forward.
Went to open the generator door yesterday and the cable pull was seized and I had to
climb under the coach pull the cotter keys out the locks and pull the arms off and then I
could push the locks open with a piece of metal. Having the old headlights gone makes
the job possible. I've got the pull cable free now but I think I better get a new one.
The way I fixed mine in Mexico was to unscrew the two screws that are holding a clamp that holds the cable right underneath the latch on the generator door. Disconnecting the cable from the handle and the bracket, I then pulled on the whole cable and that popped the generator door open. I found that the Glen dinning cable that was recommended did not work for me. There was too much modifications that I would have to do to get it to work and I wasn't in the mood to do all that. So I took a piece of parachute cord and tied it to the release on the door itself and now I have to do is reach underneath grab hold of that parachute cord in Yank and it will open. It's just temporary but who knows when it will be fixed permanently now. Got other things going on.
Have a similar issue with my engine door at the back. The wire stretch and when I try to tighten them up it doesn't seem to help a whole lot. So in order to pop my engine hatch open I just put my fingers in through the grills and push down on it works every time.
Some coaches had a flat metal bar between the handle and the latches, but mine has cable. I'm not sure if that's original or not but it's not a very good solution.