I've made two trips since the radiator leaked and I added the Barrs leak to it without a drop left behind. Tonight in the driveway, it's leaking again. I thought it was just a hose clamp, but after tightening that, it seems like it's also leaking from the end tank or core.
Looks like it's going to need a radiator. Is the radiator something special that I need to get from FT or can it be repaired or sourced by any radiator shop that does big trucks? I wish I had a go-to place here in Vegas. Anyone have a suggestion?
A good rad shop could probably recore it.
The tubes are coming loose from the header plate. Depending on the radiator shop and labor to R&R it can be re-soldered by a good shop. My crane vibrated those tubes loose and a shop hot tanked it and re-soldered the tubes back to the header. Otherwise the core assembly can be replaced using your tanks.
Kieth don't forget the PO had removed the radiator for leaks. I genuinely think he wouldn't cut any corners. Would double check with him what all was done. May be under warranty too.
Scott
You can still get radiator from the orginal maker down in Corpus Christi Texas. Atlas Radiator. I can get better info tomorrow. Or ask around locally. May have a better deal. Better quality by finding a shop that can build with latest and greatest materials. Mark
Should be a metal tag on the radiator somewhere,it will have a build number,try and get that and Atlas in Corpus can give you a price and timeline,figure about $500 for shipping.
PS,Anyone heard from David in Vegas lately,the guy with the shop?
A good radiator shop is:
Bob Rondeau's Radiator Shop in Bow, NH. As a finishing touch he flows solder around the ends of the radiator tubes for additional reenforcement. Most recently he re-cored the radiator in our Studebaker after a whoopsie. HIs main business is truck radiators.
Bob Rondeau's Radiator Shop
279 River Road, Suite E
Bow, NH 03304
Shop: (603) 225-6000
Fax: (603) 225-0160
Could be just the gasket on the ends. I've had great luck with an ounce of cayenne pepper into the cooling system.
Pierce
In March 2019 we took our rig into Cummins/Las Vegas to have the engine valves adjusted. At the time we had a small annoying radiator leak. I wanted them to flush the coolant system and replace the hoses; fix the leak if possible. They stated we don't fix radiator leaks, just replace the radiator and hoses. Gave me an estimate for $13.6 coach bucks and wait.... they needed half down before they would proceed. I declined their fix and later on when we were in Nac in May 2019 at FOT had the mechanics tighten all the bolts connecting the tanks to the core. This helped, but there was still some leaking. They then poured in some Barrs? and that stopped the leaking. The problem with this fix, is that I cannot have the coolant system flushed and the coolant replaced for fear the leaking will start again. I have the coolant protection and pH checked and the filter changed regularly. Don't know how old my hoses are which is concerning. BTW - had other issues with Cummins/LV about their service; would not return!!
I left the parking brake off on our MBZ ML320 and it rolled over our bank and into a tree. I ordered a NEW aluminum radiator (OEM) style and it was delivered for $75 about 4 months ago. The AC condenser turned out to be OK but I didn't want to take any chances so also ordered a NEW one as it was only $45 delivered. $13.6 coach bucks? I don't think that is in the cards for us. The train has come off the tracks! How can anyone stand for roadside IEDs for thousands for a tow truck, mega thousands for a radiator and even more for any internal engine failure?
Pierce
At a week long Cummins school, about 50 yrs ago, I was told that after sealing cooling system leaks with products with like Bars that the system needed to be drained, flushed with water, and refilled with the coolant of your choice. The stated reason for this is that heat and air are the catalyst for the sealant to solidify and plug the leak. The theory is that a catastrophic loss of coolant could result in sealant solidification where the sun don't shine e.g. radiator tubes.
Tim
I don't think it's end tank gasket...you can see in the 2nd picture I posted that coolant looks to be coming from where the tubes meet the ends of the core.
FT says they have 2 rads on order from "their supplier", which I assume is Atlas, since May. 6 months and haven't got them, plus they want $3800 for one.
I think I'm going to try 2 more bottles of Barrs leak and see if that stops it. If not, I guess I'll have to take it in to someone.
Keith, unless they have changed to another outfit, Foretravel's supplier is Atlas Radiator which is located in Corpus Christi. I ordered mine from them about one year ago. Foretravel used the same radiator for many years. I would think yours would be a similar price.
Complete Rad/CAC Assy (as drawn) ... $3840
Radiator ONLY ...............$2488ea
Lead time is around 6 weeks.
I had Nacogdoches Motorhome Service install my new radiator. The charge was 14 hours labor at $110 per hour for about $1600.
I attached a drawing from Atlas of my radiator.
I like your idea of trying some more Barrs. I did two treatments in one of my rigs and it cured the problem.
jor
Unless the corrosion is beyond repair, I would locate the leak, drain the radiator, let it dry, use a wire brush to take off any rust, and then patch it with JB Weld. Use the kind that takes longest to cure.
Unfortunately, it's just over a year and not in warranty. The shop he used is a rad repair place and will not R&R it from the coach, which would really make it difficult for me.
I called FT back to verify and their price is $3802 for JUST the radiator, not the assembly. WOW.
Price for radiator only (from Atlas) in July was $2910 +$200 shipping to Nac. Quoted lead time was 12 weeks.
I took mine to FOT. R&R labor was 12 hrs. The good news was that my radiator was re-cored at the shop they use in Lufkin for $600. While they were at it I had all the hoses replaced since they were 21 years old.
So you paid $1300 in labor and $600 for the recore. That's about 1/2 of just the radiator. How long was your coach at FT?
Attached is the radiator portion of my ticket from FOT. About $2700 before the Motorcade discount. As far as timing goes, I was having work done at Xtreme and some items from the remodel shop that were going to take a while, so I was able to just leave it and they worked it into the schedule. Worked with Alan Hall to coordinate everything. Mine started leaking a year ago and the Barr's did not stop it.
FT has 2 radiators on order from Atlas, that they expect in the next month or so. I've got one earmarked for me. Just need to figure out who to have install it. I need one or two more things looked at as well, so I think this is a good time to have a pro dig into this coach for a minute.
Still don't understand why you are buying it from Foretravel instead of Atlas unless it is the same price or cheaper,would also have your CAC checked out now as they have to remove it to replace the radiator.
Always go to the manufacturer first and check prices. Also, check the small shops they supply if the manufacture won't give you a break. Small shops may also have a better price on the whole job. A good technician is a good technician no matter where he or she works.
Pierce
I called Atlas, they quoted me $40 more than FT, and said a unit wouldn't be available until after they sent to the two to FT that are on order. So, saved $40 and will get one sooner by buying from FT.
Makes sense to me.
Does you radiator cap release excess pressure? L.S.
Just to expand on what Pierce has already said:
A small one-man shop, such as the guy I use on Bow, NH
Can order in the tanks or re-use yours.
Order in the core -- that's not negotiable.
Transfer your mounting hardware or order in new. Your wallet, your time.
The guy in Bow, after quoting a new four-section Volvo commercial generator radiator,
began putting the leaky radiator back together to keep the gravel pit in operation,
and discovered a damaged 0-ring and a loose screw in thread insert . . .
Lucky for him, the customer decided to have the new radiator built anyway as a spare.
Update - Foretravel called and my radiator is in. They got 2, so if someone is in need of one, they have one left right now. Now to find someone to install it. I called Temecula Valley RV and they quoted me $2500. FT said it should be a 12hr job, so that's over $200/hr? Sounds way high.
Foretravel is $140 an hour (today's current rate) FWIW
That's still about $800 less for them to do it than what I was quoted from Temecula Valley RV. I just don't want to have to drive 1400 miles each way for a 12 hr job.
1,400 miles is about $800 in fuel...
Foretravel is $140 an hour (today's current rate) FWIW
In my worst case scenario, I can't imagine driving more than 6 miles into town to a mom and pop radiator shop. Driving 800 miles one way seems like insanity to me. Where ever there are big trucks, there are big radiators. And they don't drive far and don't pay big bucks to have theirs fixed/changed.
Pierce
One solution a radiator repair guy told me years ago was to take the radiator cap off the radiator, back the vehicle out from under the cap, then drive a newer vehicle under the cap.
Works every time. >:D :))
Glad that FT has changed. When I put my radiator in a few years ago, they were about twice the price I got from Atlas. If you are interested, I posted photos of my radiator replacement (I did it in my side yard), so you can at least understand why a shop would charge a lot for the labor.
Glad that FT has changed. When I put my radiator in a few years ago, they were about twice the price I got from Atlas. If you are interested, I posted photos of my radiator replacement (I did it in my side yard), so you can at least understand why a shop would charge a lot for the labor.
If I had to do it again, I would pay someone. $2500 sounds reasonable.
Luckily I have Fourdayoff and DSD nearby, and they basically did most of the job for me. I was more of a tool gofer. These guys are like watching a NASCAR pit crew at work. Here was the thread I made after doing Radiator replacement (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=44118)