Hello everyone, new owner of a 2001 U320.... I knew there was a slide operation issue when I purchased it a few months ago. This is what I know:
The Level System light has ALWAYS been on since I bought and drove it home.... The Yellow light comes on after about 40 seconds when I turn the key for the slide, and the red light illuminates when I try to extend or even retract.....When I try to extend the room, I can hear a clicking sound, but NO movement..... I have heard what I believe is the "whoosh" of the bladder (but since I've never had it work I'm guessing)
I have done some troubleshooting, one thing I found was one of the relays was burnt out ( I have replaced it) Here's pics from the basement too. The slide out is off kilter , the front is NOT flush, and the rear is sucked in from the front not being flush. I also have NOT heard anything from the air compressor (should I? ) I have replaced ALL batteries with NEW AGM's (House and Engine) Hopefully I have presented the problem clearly and any experience and guidance from y'all is appreciated.
You have some kind of controller burned out in the second picture.
The burnt out relay was actually to the water fill valve control..... that now has been fixed. YEAH! As I thought maybe it was to do with the slide out, which is not the case.
That looks like the Finder relay for either the water pump or the water fill valve.
Mike
Is there only 1 slide on this coach? If more then one do the others work? When you press the extend or retract button and the red light comes on it should start the hydraulic pump. There is a solenoid on or right next to the motor that is know to go bad. If the solenoid is working correctly and you have power to the motor when solenoid activated chances are it is a bad motor. HWH puts all kind of warning ever where about running the hydraulic motor too long and letting it get too hot
Check for a forty amp fuse in the wiring harness. See if it is blown. Also the the hwh box can short out by touching the cover. Tighten the screws and put some rubber on the top facing the circuit boards.
Before trying to extend or retract make sure that you can see the bladder is retracted. There should be daylight all around the slide out.
James,
With mine, I can see light around or I should say on front and rear ends of the slide when bladder deflates. I had mentioned earlier that air pressure in the system seems to help mine deflate. "With engine running".
I also had a intermittent issue with locks not releasing, and showing just odd with lights green "unlocked" etc. Wound up being a water proof wire junction near batteries that wasn't completely engaged. Junction led to the lower front lock pin
Sharp looking rig!!
David
The only air to deflate the slide bladder is from the HWH compressor. Unless the check valves are shot or someone has modified the OEM system, running the engine has no effect of delating the bladder.
When you turn the key to deflate the bladder the compressor should come on. It will turn yellow after 40 seconds. It is on a timer and has nothing to do with whether the bladder is retracted or not. You can see the top of the bladder from inside along the top of the slide and the upper corners and partway down the sides. You should have a 1/4" clearance everywhere you can see. When you move the slide it should not squeal at all. If it is you risk damaging the bladder.
A low battery will prevent the HWH pump from coming on.
Roger, If the attachment you posted IMG_9607.jpeg is the correct one, I am going to say if the "Rear Brake Right" air tank has enough air in it the "Protection valve" will to let air go to the "HWH S/O Seal Air Tank", that then feeds the vacuum gen slide out control.
Roger,
I've had my 12v compressor disconnected for over 5 years now.
I had my slide seal replaced in 2014 at Tenn foretravel, "or whatever it was called at the time " The tech that reviewed the repair ,replacement, and other work done at that time requested that I always have main engine running with air at 70 PSI or higher before operating slide if I was concerned of the health of 12V compressor.
I know that erroneous information can be regurgitated on this and other sites , but I am curious now if I may have misunderstood the tech 7 years ago.
The 2000 schematic is very similar to the 2001 HWH layout.
David
Wouldn't the check valve in line 57 prevent flow. In saying that would a controlled leak there really cause any big consumption problems? This would reduce the need for the aux compressor to always manage the pressure if the engine is running. #80 drill size?
The check valve in line 57 in the 2001 U320 coach that this diagram refers to prevents any engine air or outside air connection to the AUX air connection to get to the HWH seal tank. The HWH compressor is the only source of air for seal tank. Similarly you cannot inflate a bicycle tire from the AUX air connection using the HWH compressor, only from pressure left in the service tank.
This applies to this coach assuming it has not been modified or the check valves are not fault and have been installed correctly.
In older nonslide coaches this may be different and as well for later coaches. Get your air schematic, look at it carefully, pay attention to the check valve flow direction.
The early IC37 coaches told the owner to run the engine while operation the slides. It had nothing to do with air but everything to do with undersized batteries and the load the hydraulic pump motor put on the electric system.
Roger
David, time to start looking. If your slide bladder deflates with no HWW compressor running then your air system has been modified.
Scott, if the check valve is faulty or removed or modified then engine air would add air to the seal tank. Is that a problem? Maybe not. Some have used a vacuum pump to deflate the seal. It works well and very positive. But you still have to reinflate the seal with air.
I had missed the check valve. I hate it when I do that.
It happens to all of us. I usually need to look at everything several times until I see what is there rather than what I want to be there. The check valve in the 2001 U320 36ft is at the front driver's side corner of the main bay. It might be in another place on a 40 ft. If one wanted to make a parallel bypass of the check valve with an on/off valve it would be an OK place. Close the valve unless you need to use engine are to delete the bladder.
Add an on/off valve in the air line to the bladder and past the valve an air pressure gauge. The bladder pressure is set with a pressure regulator on the bladder manifold it should be at about 11-15 psi. This pressure comes from the HWH seal air tank and the bladder remains inflated until the pressure in the HWH tank runs out. I have a pressure gauge for the HWH tank as well.