I replaced my air canisters due to a leak in the diagram. Bbean supplied much help and support!
My test drive went very well for the first 10 miles.
Then, I lost power and air pressure! Pulled into a safe parking spot, lifted the couch and positioned the safety stands.
Found a leaking air break hose. It made contact with the drive shaft universal.
With Uber trips to a truck trailer parts supply store I got a replacement hose and made repairs!!
I'm down playing this!
The problem was the original canister air line connections were clocked at 2:00, the new canister was clocked at 5:00. This left slack in the air lines so they contacted the drive shaft!!!
Repairs were successful and I made it home.
I used bungees to hold the air hoses away from the drive shaft.
I could reclock the canisters but I'm concerned I may break the seal with of the diagram!
What are your thoughts as to the best way to repair this?
Charlie I had posted photos of a new can I have disassembled. . Make sure the spring is caged. Much easier to cage with parking brake released position. Make sure it's chocked. Or on stands lifting wheel off ground to prevent movement. I would have no concerns of it sealing correctly again make sure the spring is caged before disassembly
Scott
I went through a similar event a couple months back, with the angle of the valve needling to be moved. While I feel I could have done it, after lots of reading and YouTubing I ended calling a mobile mechanic to do it. I watched and helped him, cost was $240 labor IIRC. Money well spent IMO. We ended up replacing both canisters I bought from Napa. You can search but my canister shot off while I was loosening it, as I was trying to clock in. I was unaware about how they worked, I do now of course! Fortunately, no one got hurt. So unless you are very confident in what you have to do, I would recommend finding help and not repeating my lesson learned.
You can re-clock the can without messing with the spring brake. The spring on the actuating side of the can does not have a lot of pressure. The way the diaphragm is designed it would let you loosen the clamp at the side with the mounting bolts and spin it and it will seal back up when you tighten the clamp back up. I have done this many times when replacing cans.
Fair WARNING, the parking brake needs to be caged before you go loosening any clamps. As crane man says you can turn them without hurting the seal (pancake).
Thanks for the words of wisdom!
I'll re-clock them next week. Definitely don't want to rely on bungees!
Charlie just for reference I never did find prior photos so I went out and just disassembled and reinstalled can for photos. Took under ten minutes. Spring brake diaphragm is sealed and not repairable. Service brake is no problem. The spring you see is the service brake spring and can be overcome without using any tools by hand pressure. If someone has the part number for replacement service diaphragm I would like it to purchase new diaphragms
Scott
Scott,
Are yours 30 long stroke? If so, the number should be Bendix 801379 unless they have changed the number.
Mike
Originally I tried to replace the pancakes only, but couldn't get them to seal!
After reviewing my pictures, I now know why!!!
I brought the old pancake to my Cummins repair shop for a replacement but it was a 3" stroke when a 2.5" type 24 is specified on the side of the canister! No wonder it wouldn't seal!!
Charlie,
Size and stroke is important in what diaphragm you need. Not all coaches have the same brake cans so it is always best to find the tag before you buy a diaphragm when you DIY. Glad you are back going.
Mike