I am replacing my outside doorbell as the face of the existing one has come off. Is there a fuse I can take out to ensure no power to the unit so I don't zap myself?
OE, there was no fuse specifically for the door bell. That is why most have REMOVED and insulated the hot wire to the door bell mechanism. It can (and has) started fires in coaches, as water in the door bell button can close the circuit and there is one "ding" and the plunger solenoid just stay ON. It was never designed to do that without overheating.
Not aware of a fuse at the button or "ringer" end.
As someone mentioned before that they put a fuse in for safety I did the same thing.
It would be smart to cut the wire put in the new doorbell and then instal a fuse.
What amp fuse did you use?
If I remember correctly the fuse for the door bell is in the 12VDC fuses that are on the foot of the bed. Seems like it is either the bottom fuse or the one above it. Pull your A 2702 print and double check as I am laid up in the recliner and can't get to mine for that year model. That fuse is like a 15 amp which is too much for the door bell alone but they are using that circuit for some lights also.
Mike
I think it is a 3 amp fuse
Our doorbell button in the handle beside the door merely grounds a wire when pushed. This wire is connected to a transmitter located in the cabinet above the front passenger seat. The transmitter has an inline 1.5amp fuse. It transmits a signal to the chime powered by 2 or 3 D cell batteries. Seems pretty safe. Is this not original?
The doorbell on my 95 was just as ifixboats describes. You can see the fuse in this photo.
jor
Until you get your doorbell fixed, you could hang this sign outside your door:
To everyone:
Pull the cover off the doorbell in the upper cabinet.
Verify that there is a fuse.
Have seen a number of coaches with no fuse. If the outside button shorts (think rain), it can start a fire, as the plunger is activated 24/7. A tiny fuse is the right answer and easy to do.
Be sure install the fuse in the wire going down to the button and not the wire from the button to the chime. This would protect both wires from a shorted out condition in the wall and not just the coil of the chime.
Or just put the fuse in the positive line coming into the door bell.