Hi. We just bought our new to us 1997 36' U295. It has the Mechanical 8.3 Cummins paired to Allison 3060R
Unfortunately we are 8hrs away from home. We bought it near the High Island, TX area. Any advice will do...
Thanks in advance!!
It is throwing these codes:
OL50
OL95
D1 2511
Test drove great!!!
All the sudden went into "limp" mode. And speedo quit.
Called a mobile mechanic to look at switching out the sensors tomorrow.
What else could it be?
WELCOME.
Start by verifying voltage. With engine running, it should be 13+ VDC. Lots of funny things happen to electronics at low voltage.
Certainly, check connections at the chassis batteries.
Doesn't hurt to unplug and replug the Allison gang plugs at shift pad and ECU.
Welcome to the Forum! Newly acquired coaches always like to "test" their new owners, just to see if they have what it takes. BE STRONG! :thumbsup:
Sounds like you may have already figured this out, but just in case:
OL50 = Engine speed (rpm) too low
OL95 = Sensor failure
D1 2511 = Output speed sensor, detected at 0 output rpm, 1st
See if the actions suggested by Brett help. You could also check for damaged wiring or loose/disconnected wiring plugs on any transmission sensors you can locate.
If none of this helps, then you may require a new output speed sensor. Let us know what the tech has to say.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/HE/HeavyEquipmentTech/2013-09-22_223029_allison_transmission_md3060_trouble-shooting.pdf
Chuck beat me to it.
The OL codes, oil level and oil level sensor failure are no big deal. You just have to check the oil the old fashion way.
Here is another document with information
I want to expand on Mr. Wolfe's advice, since you apparently never ready The Hitchhiker's Gide to the Galaxy: Don't Panic.
Do you have enough battery? We bought out U225 in western Texas and we were sent away with a single Group 24 battery to turn over the engine. If the voltage drops too far during cranking the transmission ECU will go schizo. You can always disconnect the batteries for 20 minutes or so while you're making certain the connections will be clean and tight, then use the boost switch when you start the engine.
Read Larry's Reply #11 and his following posts in thread linked below. Larry's coach is newer model, but the "speed sensor" on his transmission may be in the same location as on your coach.
Stuck but in safe area. Trans retarder & speedo not working,low engine power (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40069.msg396247#msg396247)
Allison speed sensor can cause transmission limp mode, where allison gears down one gear at a time until in 1st or 2nd. That happened to me on our previous coach, spartan chassis, allison 3060, cummins 8.3.
Sounds more like your engine is in limp mode though.
UPDATE:
First, Thanks for all the responses and advice!
Bought a new speed sensor PN#29544139
$100
Put it in,cleared codes, test drove for about 10 min, everything seemed fine. Hopefully that fixed it!
Old one was real grimmy. Also, it was a freightliner part so I can conclude that it has been changed before?? So I will head out tomorrow at first light.
In another thread I read that the MD3060R sensor is a whole different PN# & longer
Also, I currently do not have an Ohm reader on me to check wires...
We shall see if I make it home tomorrow.
Check your King Throttle controller. It can go into 1/3 throttle.
Congratulations! Welcome to the "We don't have problems, only solutions for the situation at hand" club.
Buy a Fluke. Spend the money once and buy a meter that you won't be fighting. Yes, I have an $8 Harbor Freight multi-meter in the glove box of the toad, but that's only for emergencies and maybe fuse testing. We used to have two Flukes but, well, I don't want to talk about it.
Again congratulations and we hope you're having a nice drive.
UPDATE:
Broke down again. Got it to Beaumon,TX and it's at Rush Truck center.
It started overheating and power steering went out.
After investigation: Hydraulic line must have burst, because my toad has oil all over it. YAY!
Mechanic said he will get to it when he can.
I'm headed back to Arkansas without the motorhome.
:(
...to be continued
Thanks for the advice and it is reassuring to know I have help.
UPDATE:
Hydraulic fan motor busted a huge leak.
Anyone have the seal kit part# so we can order the rebuild/reseal kit.
Foretravel looked at the pictures and stated it is the one without the extra valve.
I think all the part numbers you need are in this thread.
Another Radiator Fan Motor Seal Replacement (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40356.msg400180#msg400180)
Mike
Ohh what a bummer! I'm sorry to hear about the breakdown. I hope you can get it back on the road and have some trouble free fun with it!!
Here's the invoice on the kits I bought.
jor
Has anyone considered or followed through with retrofitting an air or electric fan motor??
Here is the latest discussion on the subject.
Engine fan delete? (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=43697.0)
Mike