I have an original Sharp 1850A, it works fine However, the one of the buttons is missing and the push handle recently broke. The plastic frame around all of the controls is loose, possibly due to the handle not being there??
button , only white it appears - JBTN-B114MRF0A Sharp Select Button Assy-or4 White (https://encompass.com/item/6048369/Sharp/JBTN-B114MRF0A/)
push button - JBTN-B636WRFZ Sharp Open Button (R-1875-t) (https://encompass.com/item/8458365/Sharp/JBTN-B636WRFZ/)
cover plate/frame around controls- appears to be this but maybe NLA - Sharp PCOVPB030MRT0 Base Cover Plate | TVserviceParts.com (https://www.tvserviceparts.com/Sharp-PCOVPB030MRT0.html)
My question is, if I replace these parts, will the frame tighten up? Or how did others fix this? I don't want to spend good money at bad. Seems kinda silly to put in a new microwave when the current works fine (as far as I can tell).
At some point, the MW/CO will fail. If the new parts are maybe 10% of a new oven and you can do it yourself then I would do it. Maybe even a bit more. Once you have to pay someone else for a service call and the fix is probably is too much.
Best to replace where and when it is convenient.
If anything happens to mine it will most likely get replaced
I had the same microwave and similar failures. The plastic bits put up a good fight but 20 years is a long run. I would replace it since it's just going to keep breaking. I replaced ours with the R1881LSY.
Do be aware that the location of the top vent on your 1850A is different than most. See attached picture.
I had good luck getting replacement parts from this company. Quick shipping and reasonable prices.
R1850A Sharp Replacement Parts - Encompass (https://encompass.com/model/SHAR1850A)
Update your Foretravel with a brand new state of the art high tech confection micro. Might draw less power to run it ? ? ?
I once heard that power drills were only designed to run 18 hours. True ? ? We quit repairing rental appliances because after one thing broke something else wasn't far behind.
New
Bob is spot on something else will fail.
Our original Sharp runs ok but it runs about 1 min then stops, press start and it runs about 1 min then stops, something going wacky with the control board. The display has gotten dim and hard to read also. We're not going anywhere until spring but I wanted it working just in case. I ordered a GE PVM9179SKSS today from Home Depot after looking around. Suitable convection microwaves are rather hard to find right now, lots of places have them on back order. This GE looks nice but it can only vent out the top or back which should work fine on our 03. Can't complain about service from the Sharp, 18 years is pretty good.
Thanks for the replies. I'll probably upgrade it in the next few months and see what I can do in the interim to get by with what I have.
Elliot, I did search the model you put in and the 1875 that most other people put in. I could not see a difference between them, even with a side by side comparison of the specs on Sharps site,. Do you or anyone else know what the differences between those two models?
I don't. I'm no more impressed by this microwave than I was the old one and I'd be willing to wager that they're the same microwave under the covers. I would say snag the one you want or can get most easily. I picked mine up for $490.
I replaced mine with another Sharp. Just be sure you get the zero clearance door model
By the way, one of my biggest complaints about the new Sharp is how bright the display is. We keep our bedroom doors open at night and it's incredibly bothersome. I found that this film works wonders and is hardly noticeable in the daylight, I stacked two layers of it: Amazon.com: Dim It Light Dimming Sheets - Medium Size Sheet, Light Blocking... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R0VWSG)
Change the duplex receptacle where the MW is plugged in to one with a switch and a switched receptacle. Turn it off at night.
Anyone done a hack to convert the Sharp's light and exhaust fan to 12V??? Guess I might be the first? Woody.
That's actually a pretty good idea. The fan would be nice to have on 12v.
Kim likes to use the MW lights a little too much so I switched them out for LEDs... not as efficient as 12v but better than nothing: Rayhoo Microwave Oven Appliance Light E17 Base LED Light Bulbs 110V 3W... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LN6PCSO)