Hi everyone,
hope you are enjoying your holiday!
I have taken some pictures of my cooling system for the ISM in our coach.
starting with the surge tank and making my way around in some type of order (i don't know).
I have followed the hoses from the surge tank, the small ones on the left side, by the cap, and they seem to be ok.
The hose from the bottom of the tank, identified as the "HOSE HEATER", seems to run under the coach and to the water pump coolant inlet. it also seems to be ok.
It seems i have a combination of what i think are blue silicone hoses, black rubber hoses, and a gates rubber green stripe.
The one hose of concern is the Coolant Bypass Hose. it does not look good with it's exterior peeling away. Maybe it's just cosmetic?
Does anyone else see anything of concern?
will add more pics below
more pics
I am thinking of replacing the thermostat. from what i have seen its held on by four bolts.
My water/coolant filter has no SCA's
I'm not a fan of bulging hoses. Hoses that are trying to be football should be replaced.
The hose pictured in the second set of pics, the sixth picture is a hump hose, it comes with a bulge.
Tim
Frank. First your hoses are 20 years old or so. The hose on top of the thermostat that is a 90 deg is a silicone hose and is probably fine. The Bulge green stripe hoses are designed that way to accommodate vibration and is normal. Your new ones will be the same shape but soft and pliable. The can on the bottom of the engine is the transmission cooler. The forward 90 will need to be cut out of a assembly that half will be tossed in the trash. I have posted all the hoses in a prior post and will hunt it down. The small hoses look to have been painted prior and show evidence of the paint coming off, but they are the same age. IMO I prefer the spring clamps and installed them in all positions, possibly for no reason but I can do what I want on my coach. Good luck on a factory quality thermostat. New ones are made in China. There is also several seals that need to be changed in the thermostat housing if you have it all apart, OldMattb has been down that road and can share more on it. I'll look for some numbers and post as I find them. Replacing them all should be a lifetime repair.
Scott
Ism silicone radiator hose (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41071.msg408363#msg408363)
Since I'm replacing all my coolant I would like to change the 20 year old hoses. Would prefer rated silicone hoses but have been unable to locate part numbers
There is Gates available except for the P33614 doesn't show up when searched, does any one have a part number for it?
Thanks for helping
Scott
ISM11 - 450HP
Coolant Filter ------------------Fleetguard WF2077
Hoses:
Upper Radiator Hose
Ell Engine End--------------- 2 1/4" x 16" -P33614
Radiator End --------------------------------- P37548
------------------------------------------(Gates) 23562
Lower Radiator Hose
Radiator End --------------------------------- P37548
------------------------------------------(Gates) 23562
Engine End (water pump)------------------ P37548
------------------------------------------(Gates) 23562
Bypass Hose --------------------- 1" x 7' -P7000447
------------------------------------ (Gates) 4230-0150
Cooler Hose
In ---------------------------------------------- P37298
------------------------------------------(Gates) 21472
Out -------------------------------------------- P37267
------------------------------------------(Gates) 21400
Ism silicone radiator hose (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41071.msg408391#msg408391)
Ordered gates and converted to all Breeze spring clamps. Inspected upper silicone and decided to reuse
Scott
Sorry didn't put links or sizes I ordered
And don't forget to not loose the restricter that goes in the small hose ( #7 ) in the flow diagram. Looks like a washer with a small hole in the middle of it.
Here's a few more pics from Cummins website.
Don't see the restrictor RBark in the exploded view.
1st pic thermostat housing
2nd pic water pump
Frank,
Here is a thread that has pics. of the orifice. radiator overflow mystery (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34863.msg323103#msg323103)
There is a print somewhere here on the Forum that I will hunt up
Here is the other one that shows it.
Still running hot (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34240.msg314542#msg314542)
Mike
Thanks Mike
I wonder why it's not included in the Cummins website photos.
Not all applications had the retarder, Just a WAG That pic. came out of a Cummins engine book.
Mike
Frank, my coach has the cooling disc which is (as I recall) about the size of a quarter with an 1/8" hole drilled in it. Below are pictures I took documenting my thermostat replacement, reference in the "Foretravel/Cummins" owners manual and the location of the cooling disc. I think the Cummins cooling system was modified and integrated into the Foretravel build and therefore may not be referenced in standard Cummins documentation (only Foretravel/Cummins specific documents). Hopefully this helps.
Looks like it's black paint over a red hose.
Here is the thread where we discussed my seal for the water pump, and replacing the thermostat. Maybe something there will be of help.
I did replace the thermostat, but reluctantly. I think it is about 50/50 now if a new (Chinese) part will fail before the old (still working) part.
The short hose that leaves the water pump is currently a silicone hose, and is double-clamped with traditional clamps. I have a new hose, and torque clamps to do it right. I will redo when I have a reason to get back in there.
Heed the advice of others, and use torque clamps on silicone hoses.
Coolant leak! (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41347.0)
Just wanted to give an update.
I have flushed the radiator 8 times with tap water.
I'm getting approximately 11 gallons out every time I drain it at the bottom of the radiator.
I did not disconnect any hoses and decided not to touch anything at the water pump or thermostat.
I went to Cummins and purchased the bypass hose from them and when I asked for the thermostat they were unable to get it at this time .
I've ran the engine at idle and have taken the coach out for a spin trying to achieve the 180° mark for the thermostat to open but it's been difficult to stay at that temperature or above even with the weather that we've been having down here in Miami.
It seems that I can get the temperature to go up into the 180s when I use the retarder to slow down but it quickly cools and drops right back down to 179 or less
This is what my coolant is looking like right now or hopefully lack of coolant and just regular water and I've also included a picture of the bypass hose new that I purchased.
The picture with the pink coolant is after six flushes.
Did you consider using one of the Cummins cooling system cleaners? Cummins Filtration offers two, Restore an alkaline cleaner and Restore + an acid cleaner.
I've been reading and making my list . . . I can't wait to service my cooling system. My plan is a round of Restore, a flush with well water, and one flush with distilled. Distilled because the local water is seriously "hard" with limestone. The mix the concentrate with distilled. I expect the whole process to take a couple of weeks. Once I figure out how to change one small coupling in the upper radiator pipe.
Cummins Filtration (https://shop.cummins.com/CSSNAStore/s/product/a2w4N000003sGKRQA2/restore-cooling-system-cleaner-1-gal-cc2610)
Hi Toolmaker,
Yes I did consider a chemical flush, however, since I'm not replacing any components (thermostat, water pump or hoses) I was worried about any and all leaks or problems that it can cause for me.
I once had my power steering pump flushed at tire kingdom and I started having weeks after that.
Ended up having to replace the pump.
I have no leaks in my cooling system and would like to keep it that way. I have used bars in the past.