Fun day! Shortly after leaving the campground the ole girl wouldn't shift out of 4th, so we pulled over and noted that the blinker didn't sound right. Turned the engine off, restarted... nothing. No dash lights either. Tried again and she tried to start. Used the boost and she started right up. We continued and she did it again. This time we noticed that the voltage gage showed 8 volts. Wiggled the wires behind the gage and turned off all the unnecessary stuff and it gradually came back up. Starting required the boost again.
We traveled the remaining 100 miles without any issues. Turning on the lights caused the voltage to drop a bit, so we left them off.
Note: We were using the retarder both times things went weird.
97 u295 with Cummins 8.3
Update: so we did indeed have a bad battery. We replaced BOTH batteries, but it still looks like we have an issue.
Alternator/Isolator Readings
Coach Running, nothing on
Alternator: 12.38
Batteries: 12.13
Isolator:
-Left: 13.06
-Middle: 12.37
-Right: 12.10
Dash: 11.7
Coach Running, AC, lights and etc on
Alternator: 12.20
Batteries: 11.98
Isolator:
-Left: 13.06
-Middle: 12.18
-Right: 11.92
Dash: 11
How do we know if it's the alternator, the isolator or both?
Note: we will clean the isolator connections as soon as the tornado warning passes....
Jimmy:
Diode isolators are quite reliable. Your low voltage measurements are pointing to the alternator.
The alternator voltage is at least 2.5 volts low and it's unable to handle additional load. How old is it (yrs and/or miles). It can be just a disconnected sense wire, or worn out brushes requiring a rebuild or replacement. Pls post make of alternator, age, photos of wire connections for additional help to troubleshoot.
I would upgrade the alternator to a Delco Remy and upgrade the isolator at this time,and listen to Mr. Fleming,he the Guru.
Hey Peter, thanks for the quick response! We have to assume that all parts are original. They certainly look like it. Everything is very dirty so when I have a chance I'll clean the connections that are reachable. We have another month until we sit still for a while, meanwhile we might be traveling with the generator running.
We will try to get some more pictures tomorrow.
I did take a picture of the Isolator. Will clean the connections tomorrow.
Jimmy,
After looking at that pic. you need to at least clean up the sense wire where it is landed on the breaker. That breaker sure loos tired so it may have to be replaced.
Mike
Looks like the original,mark every wire and get new resetable fuses and new solenoids,take the mounting plate and paint it and it will look like new.
Jimmy,
I had similar issues with my 2005 U270 while I was traveling and had that same type of isolator. I learned from this forum that you could disconnect the 2 positive wires from the isolator and using a 3/8 bolt, you could bolt the 2 positive wires together and wrap them with electric tape and continue your travels. When I did this, my gauge readings went back to normal ranges, which confirmed the isolator was bad. I drove 600 miles and did not have an issue. You need to understand by doing this you are combining the house batteries with the chassis batteries and if the batteries go dead, you will not have any "boost " capability.
Yes, connecting all the wires on the battery isolator will work IF (yes, big IF) the isolator is the problem.
But, what I would do is clean all connections on the alternator and isolator (you will want to do this anyway, whatever the diagnosis).
Recheck your readings.
If the same, remove the alternator and take to an alternator shop for diagnosis/rebuild.
But, would hate to see you start there only to find out you have a badly corroded connection or wire whose copper has turned to green copper oxide.
Jimmy is outside cleaning connections and I got a few pictures of the alternator. He will clean these too.
Yes, cleaning those up should keep him out of trouble for awhile!
Either take wires off one at a time or LABEL THEM.
And, for wires that are "hot" from the "not disconnected" end, cover the end with a piece of cheap plastic hose, hunk of old bicycle inner tube or something so it doesn't short out/arc.
Well. That didn't go well.
One of the posts on the alternator turned when Jimmy tried to loosen the bolt (the rusty looking one in the photo). The alternator is now reading 3 volts.
Can this be re-built? Big problem is that we have to be out of this campground on the 11th! Leaning towards ordering a new alternator, but have no idea what we need!
We have driven for a couple of weeks with a broken alternator. Many others have also. Run Generator to power battery charger to charge house battery, close boost switch to keep engine battery charged, duplicating what the alternator does.
Don't panic or be concerned. You will just be another of the many who have learned to drive without an alternator.
Your campground problem can be prevented by making sure all electrical connections are shinny and tight before heading out.
In terms of locating a rebuilder or new one, please let us know where you are!
But, yes there ARE some pretty simple "work arounds" that can get you on the road with a bad alternator.
You inverter/CHARGER is just that, a charger. Generator on, the inverter/charger charges the house battery bank.
If your boost switch is working, and on, that charges the chassis battery as well.
If boost switch inoperative, merely moving the cable from one side of the boost switch and ADDING it to the other lug "ties" the two banks together. That same "tying" can be done at the battery isolator and several other locations as well-- basically anywhere you have connections between the two battery banks in close proximity.
We are currently in Aberdeen, Mississippi. We will be here until the 11th. After that we have shorts stops until we get to Angleton, TX where we will be for the month of February.
Much to my dismay, Jimmy would like to upgrade the system.... He's in awe of what Rodger did!
I'm all for just fix it! -Christine
Just confiscate his check book!
Actually with all the corrosion on the alternator, I would also lean toward a new one rather than rebuilding that one.
What's our best bet? Call Foretravel and get a direct replacement shipped here?
Is running the generator with the boost ok when our house batteries are lithium?
Just to give you guys some numbers to ponder, I pulled up some recent info from the Forum. The charging system on your coach is important, and I am all in favor of upgrading the factory components. However, keep in mind that the original system as installed at the factory was perfectly capable of doing the intended job, and simply replacing the OEM parts is the least complicated way to refresh the system.
Your coach probably came from the factory with a Leece Neville 160A DUVAC alternator and a 3-post diode based isolator. Photos 1, 2, and 3 below show a typical LN DUVAC alternator found on Foretravel coaches (thanks to Lt403 for the photos). You can still buy that exact same model (brand new) today:
A0012824LC by LEECE NEVILLE - High Output Alternator (https://www.finditparts.com/products/3658153/leece-neville-a0012824lc#description)
PRESTOLITE-LEECE-NEVILLE A0012824LC ALTERNATOR (https://www.filterspro.com/PRESTOLITE-LEECE-NEVILLE-A0012824LCBRALTERNATOR_p_742883.html)
Alternator - A0012824LC - Prestolite / Leece-Neville - Big Rig World (https://bigrigworld.com/alternator-a0012824lc.html)
The OEM 3-post
diode isolator could be replaced with a more efficient
FET based model. See below for one example:
Amazon.com: Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolators 200-2AC (2 Batteries... (https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Argofet-200-2-Batteries/dp/B00NT9MTMQ)
If you need new boost and aux start solenoids, the Cole Hersee 24213 is most often recommended around here:
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24213-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B005K2429I/ref=pd_bxgy_2/134-1936859-1296708?pd_rd_w=CSoqT&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=P6XMMBHP85M27W6MKB1R&pd_rd_r=3e80e68e-e214-456c-a57d-687ea849eccb&pd_rd_wg=VZ0JS&pd_rd_i=B005K2429I&psc=1)
If you decide to upgrade your charging system, then the sky's the limit (both in complexity and in cost). You can do one item at a time, or all at once. There are several threads on the Forum dealing with this subject. Roger's extensive electrical project report collection is one of the best, with excellent instructions and photos.
For a less ambitious upgrade example, I installed a Delco 200A alternator along with some modifications to the original charging system on our coach. My story below:
Delco Remy 28SI Alternator Installation (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40778)
Whatever you decide to do, think about the whole system before you spend any money. You want components that are compatible with each other, and that accomplish the goals you have in mind.
That darn Roger is always making me spend my money too!!! 😂😂😂 But man they are good ideas!!
Keith
Sent you a PM.
As noted in Chuck's excellent Delco install post, replacing a LN with a Delco requires a new isolator with an excite terminal. The Delco "I" terminal is for an indicator light. Attaching ignition excite directly to the Delco "I" terminal will permanently damage the alternator.
I have installed and would recommend either the 200 amp Delco 28SI (with brushes) or the brushless 240 amp 40SI - more expensive but heavier duty and longer life. Forum members have installed both with excellent results.
Also note that the Delco S "sense" terminal is equivalent to the LN "DUVAC" terminal.
Here are a couple of isolators with excite terminals that will work with a Delco.
EATON's Sure Power 24023A-IB Multi Battery Isolator | Waytek Wire (https://www.waytekwire.com/item/80060/EATON-s-Sure-Power-24023A-IB-Multi-Battery)
Amazon.com: Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolators 200-2AC (2 Batteries... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NT9MTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_R2BKN0TDFQK371AC3KZP)
Once you identify the replacement you want, suspect it will be reasonably easy to find.
No idea on the LI compatibility question. But, you are not necessarily looking for a "can they live happily forever together". More important is whether they can be happy for the hours you need to drive to get to a more convenient location.
Is your current inverter/charger programmed for LI? If so, the more important question is what harm will you do for those hours to the chassis batteries.
Again, I have zero experience with LI, so will defer to those with deeper pocketbooks. Just want to make sure that the correct questions are addressed.
Got my Delco Remy here,"Qualitypowerauto.com" 909-794-1600,they have the pulleys in stock and will install.
Ordered a replacement alternator from Foretravel. They sent one without an adjustable voltage regulator.
Just because you order from Foretravel doesn't mean you get the original or one with the same abilities.
I replaced my isolator and all relays before they died. Alternator, and starter with a gear reduction one. Very happy
Ok. We will continue with our originally scheduled program (travel) using the boost....
This is what I plan to have sent to Angleton:
Delco Remy 28si, 200amp, J Mount - Quality Power Auto / $345 & $25 for pulley
Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolators 200-2AC (2 Batteries 200 amp) - Amazon
Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid (2 of them?) - Amazon
Am I missing anything? Breakers and resettable fuses were mentioned....
Also what are y'all using to label wires? We generally use tape and a marker, but it not great.
-Christine
Navigator and Credit Card Controller
Not strictly related to your issue, but if you want to replace the other components on the isolator board you could do the relays and circuit breakers.
Circuit Breaker: Bussman CBC15B (15 amp) - About $5 each (Amazon or any auto parts store)
Relay: Standard RY 115 - About $11 at auto parts store
Solenoid: The other Cole-Hersee solenoid
Also, if you're feeling froggy and your isolator board is still located out by the rear tire, you could consider moving it to the under-the-bed location as Foretravel did on later models. One job always turns into three!
jor
Good suggestion - do it all at once and never worry about that panel again!
Check your wiring diagram to verify the circuit breaker "size" (15 or 20 amp). Or, look on the old breakers for ID markings.
Another source for relays. Always handy to have a few spares in your parts drawer. Many uses!
Amazon.com: 10 Pack Bosch Style 5-Pin 12V Relay Switch [SPDT] [30/40 Amp] 12... (https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Economical-Installation/dp/B07D7K6SR6)
The Cole Hersee 24213 is good for replacing both solenoids. It will look slightly different than the aux start solenoid you have now, but will work in exactly the same way. Requires one additional ground wire to hook it up - just like the other (old) boost solenoid you have now.
Christine, you can get clear heat shrink tubing. I use that and a post it note (or part of one) and write on it with a marker. Works great. I tried making a label with my label printer, looked good until heat from shrinking the tube turned it black.
See
XHF 3/4 inch (19mm) 3:1 Waterproof Clear Heat Shrink Tubing Marine Grade... (https://amazon.com/XHF-inch-25mm-Waterproof-Insulation/dp/B07HT4HDPY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1H4PR5O4EAII2&keywords=clear%2Bheat%2Bshrink%2Btube%2B1%2Binch&qid=1641230513&sprefix=Clear%2Bheat%2Bshrink%2Btube%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRkZNRDVDU1ZCOFJRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjExODY5M05VUFhBVVEyN080SiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDM2MTA3MkQ0UzNNSksxSElUQSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1)
And Yes, a good supply of Bosch style relays are very useful. Amazing what you can do with them.
Got the 200 amp Delco type (WAI brand) alternator installed. Only connected the DUVAC wire to the S post, didn't know what to do with the other little wire marked KEY SWITCH. Intended to install Argofet (200Amp-2 bank) isolator but just realized that it's a no-go with LIFEPO house batteries. How do we proceed? We have solar to charge the house batteries and intend to keep battery banks connected at the boost solenoid.
This stuff isn't intuitive for me but I ain't skeered! Still, I'm aiming for a simpler solution
-Jimmy
Key switch would go to the IGN terminal on the alternator= any 12 VDC positive that is hot only when the ignition is on.
No idea if your new alternator needs that one of if you can remove it.
What does the wiring diagram that came with your new alternator say?
When you say "Delco TYPE alternator" that raises the question of how closely it copies the Delco design. If it is exactly the same as the Delco 28Si then it should connect the same way. If it is different on the back, then you will, as Brett says, need to follow the instructions that came with it.
The Delco 28SI alternator does not require a "hot with ignition" EXCITE wire. There is no place to connect one on the Delco 28SI.
The only small wire that should be connected to a Delco 28SI is the "always hot" SENSE wire. It goes on the small "S" post.
With the Delco 24SI and 28SI alternators, B+ voltage on the output stud is necessary for initial turn-on (excitation). See the link below for Peter's info on connecting the Delco 28Si alternator and how to make it work with a battery isolator. (I see Peter was typing down below the same time I was)
DelcoRemy 28SI alternator (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30873.msg269451#msg269451)
Why won't the ArgoFET isolator work with your battery setup? It is the perfect isolator to use with the Delco 28SI.
Are you are concerned about having two different types of batteries?
If you keep the two battery banks connected together with the boost solenoid, how is that different than using the isolator?
The Delco 28SI does not have an ignition excite terminal. Connecting ignition excite to the "I" terminal will permanently damage the alternator.
The only way the Delco will work in a 2 battery bank isolator setup is with an isolator designed for use with a Delco - with an ignition excite terminal - like the ArgoFET. Delco will not work with the OEM diode isolator.
No diagram came with the alternator. We will request one.
This was on the page for the isolator we bought:
Question: The wiring diagram seems to indicate that this can only be used with three lfp batteries. can one of them be a lead-acid starting battery ?
Answer: This device is NOT recommended for LFP batteries at all (the batteries shown in the wiring diagram are non-specific battery templates), as it is not current-limiting nor does it offer the intelligent multi-stage charge profile recommended for LFP batteries. It is strongly advised that you do NOT charge an LFP battery directly from an alternator, as the LFP does not offer the internal resistance of an FLA battery and as such can easily burn out your alternator.
We strongly advise against connecting any LFP battery bank to this device; instead, you should use a battery-to-battery charger with current-limiting capability. If you are using this device to connect FLA or AGM batteries, however, it will work very well; please make particular note of the model you select, however, as you posted this question specifically on the 200-2 model, which only supports 2 batteries, not 3.
Regards,
-Justin
Mobile Power Pros / Bay Marine Supply
Here is the Delco tech bulletin that explains how to use a Delco alternator with a battery isolator system.
This is the alternator we bought. 200amp/J Mount
Quality Power (https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_506/Delco-28SI-Series-High-Output-Alternators.htm)
Note: Jimmy has actually written a post on his account! His first! Waiting on approval:)
Unfortunately this note on that web page is misleading, probably written by someone unfamiliar with a Delco alternator. Note should also say "with isolator designed for use with a Delco."
"NOTE: Can be used on applications with self-exciting, DUVAC (remote sense), and/or ignition triggered OE systems. Also has a tach terminal."
This is a Chinese copy of the Delco 28SI. I would expect the operation also replicates the original Delco 28SI.
If you decide to go ahead and use the ArgoFET isolator, then you would connect the wire marked KEY SWITCH to the small ENERGIZE connection on the isolator using the supplied crimp connector. That way, when you turn the ignition key to ON, power is supplied to the ENERGIZE circuit in the isolator. This internal circuit routes battery voltage to the ALT INPUT post on the isolator. The alternator, seeing B+ (battery voltage) on that post, is EXCITED into action and starts charging.
IF your 28SI clone alternator works like a genuine Delco 28SI, and IF you do
not use the ArgoFET isolator, then you will need to devise another way of suppling B+ (EXCITE) voltage to the alternator output post. This would normally be accomplished (in a single battery application) by connecting the alternator output cable directly to the start battery. With this setup, it would still be a
good idea to leave the SENSE (Duvac) wire connected to the "S" post on the alternator (although it would not be mandatory).
You can work with what you have on hand...but you need to carefully think it through. Any questions just ask!
NOTE: DO NOT connect the KEY SWITCH wire directly to the alternator output post or cable! This will not work. The alternator will attempt to send charging amps through the small gauge wire back to the ignition switch. At some point in that circuit, magic smoke will escape.
Magic smoke - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_smoke)
Thanks everyone for sharing your wisdom. I'll continue with the isolator upgrade and parts replacement on the isolator board. If this Chinese alternator burns up, Oh Well! I'm considering adding B2B chargers in the future. We'll research the forum for answers first but when my head starts bleeding from excess head-scratching, we'll be back.
Jimmy
Lithium Upgrade (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=43862)
DC/DC Isolation Charger (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42980)
Lithium battery build 542AH 50 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=42393)
Another lithium upgrade. (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41960.msg419472#msg419472)
I looked back through your old posts and see you installed the LiFePo batteries over a year ago. Apparently you have been using the old original isolator and alternator since that time. This may have been what killed the old alternator? I don't know enough about lithium batteries to answer that.
The links in the post above offer a number of solutions to integrating LiFePo house batteries and AGM chassis batteries. For the most part, this requires replacing the battery isolator with something different. At this point in your project, I think you should wait on installing the ArgoFET isolator, and think about returning it for a refund. Use the money towards purchasing a more appropriate charging device that will work with the two different battery types on your coach.
There is a simple solution that would get you back in operation while you plan your next move.
First, do not install the ArgoFET isolator. Connect the alternator output cable to the chassis (start) battery cable. Both these cable ends were connected to the old isolator, so they are located in close proximity. Just tie them together with a nut and bolt and carefully insulate the connection to prevent shorts. This will let you use your new alternator to charge the chassis batteries. It will also eliminate the need for a EXCITE wire.
Second, use your existing solar controller and (when plugged in or running generator) your inverter/charger to keep the LiFePo batteries charged. I assume they both have appropriate settings for this type battery. Unless you do a lot of boondocking, this should work fine.
With this setup, your battery banks will normally remain totally separated. If for any reason you must combine them, you can use the BOOST switch.
This is how I run our coach electrical system. We do not use any kind of battery isolator. It works fine for us! NOTE: All of our batteries are AGM.
Delco Remy 28SI Alternator Installation (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40778.msg405081#msg405081)
This alternator may work fine...just a word to the wise for anyone considering an alternator upgrade or any other parts...need to be extra careful buying replacement parts.
Be wary of wording that says Delco "type" or Delco "equivalent" or "for Delco xxxx" or "replaces Delco xxxx".
Search for the actual Delco mfg PN 8600307 (for the 200 amp 28SI) and look for "manufacturer: Delco-Remy" and the Delco-Remy logo.
Delco only makes a 160, 180 and 200 amp 28SI. Anybody selling higher 240 amp or 270 amp "28SI" alternators is not selling genuine parts.
Expect to pay more for genuine parts. A surprisingly low price usually means a clone of the original part.
There should be no reason not to use a Delco Remy (actual or copy) alternator. It only uses the sense wire to boost the alternator voltage a bit when the start batteries are at a lower voltage (like right after you start). After a while, it will calm down back towards 14v. The only small wire to connect to it is the sense wire coming from the start batteries. Do not use the excite wire. It is only used for modified alternators that need an external voltage to start working.
A Victron ArgoFET isolator is a great one if both sets of batteries are the same type. It is not a good choice if one set is lead and the other is LiFePO4 batteries which will take as much charge as you can give them, bad for the batteries and bad for the alternator.
A better choice is a Battery to Battery charger. With these you need no isolator, the B2B charger is the isolator. The output from the alternator charges the start batteries and connects to the input side of the B2B charger. The output from the B2B charger connects to your LiFePO4 batteries and provides multi-stage charging to the batteries. It will not overcharge your LiFePO4 batteries or overwork your alternator. Victron makes 30 amp B2B chargers, you can use more than one of them in parallel, Sterling makes a 60 amp version.
BattleBorn suggests a maximum charge rate of 20% of your total capacity to achieve the longest possible battery life (measured in charge cycles). At this maximum rate, they have achieved over 5000 charge cycles.
A second choice if you have a large LiFePO4 battery capacity is to use BattleBorn's charge isolator (BIM, I think it is called). It is similar to a B2B charger sharing the alternator output with the start batteries and the input of the BIM. The output goes to your LiFePO4 batteries. The difference is that it works with a timer, on for a while then off for a while. No multi-stage charging, just on with all your alternator will provide and then off to let the alternator cool off and the batteries to catch a breath after a long hard guzzle.
Be careful with your LiFePO4 batteries, lots of money tied up there, They can be overcharged or charged too aggressively which compromises their long-life capability.
You can still have and use (sometimes) a boost switch for an occasional start aid. If you need it frequently then it is time to go through the start wiring and start batteries. In general, you should not have to use the boost switch for starting if start batteries, start battery wiring, and the starter are in good condition.
I would suggest not using the boost switch or a manual switch to combine battery bank when they are different battery types (lead and LiFePO4). If you need to combine battery banks choose a smart voltage sensing relay combiner or any of the other "smart" devices. A manual device is combining battery sets with significantly different resting voltages and chemistries.
Roger
Replace the heavy duty solenoid that is hiding behind the front removeable panel next to the front door. Pull out on both sides on the BOTTOM to get at the solenoids at the bottom. Use your multimeter to determine when it ACTIVATES when you energize it by turning on the ignition key. If it has been intermittently failing, it will cause ALL KINDS of WEIRD PROBLEMS. Change it now to avoid future problems. BUY "TWO" as they fail about every 100K and you will be prepared.
Regards
And make sure you get a CONSTANT DUTY solenoid of at least the rating of the old one. Here, higher rating is good. Many of us have gone with a much better version: Solenoid L-Series - 250A 12/24V - Blue Sea Systems (http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012/L_Solenoid_-_12_24V_DC_250A)
Think one reason not to use a Delco "copy" would be crappy quality,even if someone has had "good luck"with one it is not the same.
What happens if (when) this solenoid fails? Looks like one week from Amazon for the Blue Sea. Reasonable replacement usually available from NAPA?
There are several solenoids in the coach, performing different functions. Basically, solenoids are used to turn on/off higher loads than you want a switch to handle. That way the switch only "switches" the signal of a few amps, not high loads.
The IGNITION SOLENOID supplies all circuits that energize with the ignition is turned on. So, if it goes out, the Allison shift pad will not illuminate (no start/no shift), etc. Easiest diagnostic is if the dash HVAC fan does not operate, you need to check the ignition solenoid/ignition switch and wiring between them.
Not aware of any NAPA solenoid similar to the BlueSea electronic switch. If you look at NAPA, verify it is a constant duty solenoid and at least the amp rating of the one it is replacing (here bigger is better). Compare specs as well. Lower quality solenoids and many of the "replaces" solenoids generate more heat/resistance.
I believe the 2001 U320 is going to have a different setup from the older coaches with the single ignition solenoid. On newer coaches not as simple to substitute the (excellent) Blue Sea unit, but it can be done.
On Mike & Molly's coach there should be
two ignition solenoids, located behind the beauty panel in front of passenger, at the bottom center on circuit breaker/wiring board. They are black square looking and will have Bosch markings. Much bigger than a standard relay. Each solenoid controls 1/2 the circuits on the board. See photos and more info in link below:
Ignition solenoid on a u320 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34272)
Chuck,
You are correct. The newer coaches with higher "ignition hot" circuits amp loads use two ignition solenoids.
We finally got it done and all seems to be working as it should. Jimmy and I will try to pull together a list of items we ordered and used as we would have found that extremely useful. We left room for Orion expansion if needed later on.
Managed to break the cord for the block heater... so there's another project!
If you are planning on replacing the engine coolant anytime soon, that's the perfect time to replace the block heater. Otherwise, hard to do it without making a mess.
VOSSX2
Maybe your coach needs some blinker fluid? >:D :))
All the block heaters I've seen have removable cords. Check the examples on this page for how they may attach. Zerostart Direct Replacement Car & Truck Engine Blocks for sale | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/b/Zerostart-Direct-Replacement-Car-Truck-Engine-Blocks/33613/bn_116959654)
Pierce