After I unhook my water line, I turn off the little valve that is at the end. Then I reel it in. But after a little space of time pressure builds up in the hose and water is forced out of the valve at the end of the hose.
Is there a seal in the freshwater tank the is not sealing properly?
Thanks
When I undo the water line I always drain some of the water out of the line, about 3-4 ft.
Then i reel the hose in with a loose cap.
When it's in I tighten the cap.
No leaks
Make sure you have, or don't need a new gasket.
Rick,
You should have a one-way check valve somewhere upstream of your water hose reel. It is obviously leaking and allowing water pump to pressurize your hose. I fought a leaking check valve for a while, then decided to fix the problem once and for all. Installed a push-fit ball valve in water pipe going to hose reel - gutted the check valve. No more dribbles. I still keep a cap on the end of the hose just to keep dirt and bugs out.
Can't fill the water tank. (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35293.msg329388#msg329388)
A few things that may be causing what you are seeing.
1. The hose diameter slowly constricts when pressure to the hose is removed. This forces water out.
2. Thermal expansion of the water. Cold water from a source will warm up and expand when it gets warm. This forces water out.
3. Not elevating the open hose end will provide a place for air to enter as small amounts of water leak out.
4. Finally--bad gaskets, a leaky hose or hose washer.Or a bad shutoff valve.
Take your pick
It takes about 4 hours to fill my freshwater tank when it's almost empty. Would that be an indication that this one-way check valve is bad.
So am i to understand that you shouldn't drain the hose, so no air gets in.
Thanks
I can fill our 100 gallon tank to overflowing in about 30 minutes.
No, just cap the end of the hose if you don't want water leaking into the compartment. But, when you take the cap off, CAREFUL you don't get wet.
That is longer than "normal" I would say, although our coach also filled very slowly, until I installed a direct fill connection.
Possible causes of slow filling would be a kinked or twisted fill hose, partially blocked/failed back-flow valve, or a water fill valve that does not open fully.
Do you have a electric water fill solenoid valve, or a manual ball valve under the bathroom sink?
Yow!
Our coach came to us with the hose reel removed. I replaced the check valve with a plumbing gate valve, and attach a garden hose. It probably takes 10-15 minutes to go from under 10 percent full to 95 percent full.
4 Hours is way to long. I wouldn't want to be behind you at the dump and fill station ( no offense).
Our coach takes about 45 minutes ( depending on pressure) to fill using the original coach fill plumbing and about 15/20 minutes again depending on supply pressure by the direct fill.
I would follow Chuck's lead and do the gate valve instead of check valve and direct fill thing. We did.
Safe travels.
Instead of a gate valve use a 1/4 turn ball valve.
Fill check valve. I added a ball valve just before check valve to prevent leaks caused by check valve failure. Yes belt suspenders mentality. My solenoid fill valve also needed all the calcium removed. Mine did not require any parts during cleaning but having a spare diaphragm might be nice. Fill at 50 psi similar to Matts 15minutes about. Ive also given lots of thought to removing the check valve altogether and be able to pressurize the hose with the coach. Spray down the awning area? Clean bugs off the front of the coach? Wet down sand? Endless well except for capacity. First two photos show mod to 90 fitting to accept a regular hose bib instead of a 1/2 fitting.
If you are interested in adding a "quick fill valve" to your tank, search the Forum for several ideas. One simple example below:
What did you do to your coach today VII (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33153.msg301076#msg301076)
NOTE: The link to the Uniseal vendor in that old post is dead. You can buy them other places, such as:
Amazon.com: 1/2" UNISEAL Flexible Tank Adapter (Bulkhead) - 2 Pack :... (https://www.amazon.com/UNISEAL-Flexible-Tank-Adapter-Bulkhead/dp/B072MPV222/ref=pd_sbs_2/145-1165119-7020450?pd_rd_w=05F3o&pf_rd_p=17bff4d4-f2bf-4f92-baef-a7ea7328c038&pf_rd_r=00HED6712Q1PA63WNQND&pd_rd_r=7baedf34-f640-48f9-b4aa-5124210fe2ee&pd_rd_wg=MlGXO&pd_rd_i=B072MPV222&psc=1)
1/2'' UNISEAL Flexible Tank Adapter (bulkhead) - 5 Pack: Pet Care Products:... (https://www.amazon.com/UNISEAL-Flexible-Tank-Adapter-bulkhead/dp/B00FXXVJSG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=The+Uniseal+Warehouse&qid=1642960562&sr=8-4)
When I got my coach the check valve stopped the water from filling my tank which I have changed, so you
could check there or as Scott said the solenoid valve may be restricting the flow. I fill my tank in 10 to 15
minutes.
Yes, that. My fingers mis-spoke.
Blame Auto Correct. I always do... 8)
I think water pressure and hose diameter or an orifice determines rate of fill.
At 4 hour fill time, there is likely some other obstruction.
First "suspect" is the check valve. Replace it with another check valve or (better) a ball valve).
If that doesn't cure it, next "suspect" is the electric fill valve. Again, consider replacing it with a ball valve-- KISS THEORY!
Wow never even entered my mind. Hate that when something so simple doesn't cross my mind. All the switches and locking relays and a expensive fill valve eliminated with one ball valve. 👍👍 guess its same same as a direct fill mod also.
So, I probably have to replace the check valve with a ball valve that I can manually close and clean the solenoid fill valve. But I should make sure I have the diaphragm. How do you get to the solenoid? The solenoid does work since it does fill.
Here is a picture of my water line. There are two metal fittings. Is one the check valve?
Does that make sense?
Check valve (back-flow preventer) is the brass fitting between the two white teflon taped threads. It is just a spring loaded flat disk or ball inside. Pull it apart and see what you find.
Thanks. What about the solenoid. Do I have to take the outer cover off?
I don't know what I would do without this forum!
My 2001 has it just forward of the right rear tire in the water compartment under the water pump. Big and brass same compartment you have the three drain valves
Got it.
Thanks
Check out this link:
Water Fill Valve Issues (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=32695.msg293916#msg293916)
No, it would take TWO ball valves, one for water into the side of the coach.
The second to allow you to fill the tank vs just use CG water.
Rick,
Most likely the diaphragm is good just needs a good cleaning. If you find a lot of calcium build up in the fill valve then you need to think about giving the whole system an acid wash with vinegar. There is a how to for that in the Forum also.
Mike
Does the freshwater tank need to be empty to replace the check valve and/or the electric fill valve.
Does the freshwater tank need to be empty to replace the check valve and/or the electric fill valve.
Rick,
Once the pressure has been bled off the system it is best to have two 00 (double aught) tapered rubber plugs to stick into the end of the PEX lines when you remove the fill valve. This will make sure that you don't drain the fresh tank into the basement while you have the valve out soaking overnight.
Mike
Thanks so much for all of the input.
Looks like you have it figured out, but I replaced mine recently as well. Some part numbers in this thread: Water fill valve leaking pressure back to fill hose when pump running? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=43148.0)