Actually a couple of questions for the folks that can look at these electrical schematics without getting a headache. 😊
What is being shown in the highlighted area of the schematic? It looks like a distribution lug for supplying power from the house batteries.
My second question is this? Scenario "Electrical Smoke from an Unknown Source". I want to isolate all A/C and D/C power.
Obviously you turn off the Main breakers at the panel. But you still have power coming to the panel. I want to understand how to make the coach electrically "Dead". As we say at work a "Cold dark Airplane".
1. D/C power. Does the battery switch at the front door remove "ALL" D/C power from the coach? Including the feed to the panel? I can't tell from the schematic.
2. A/C power. Shore power- Turn off the breakers at the pedestal and unplug for redundancy.
Generator- Shut it down.
Charger/Inverter- If it has inverter mode enabled it will be supplying A/C power from the house batteries. It looks like the Charger/Inverter is wired "Hot" to the battery.
It would also be nice to have a readily ( From Outside the Coach) available battery disconnect in the engine compartment. It's a little surprising they don't come that way from the factory. That will be on my to do list. I'll try to post pictures of the schematic.
Assuming you have no solar:1. Common DC power distribution point. See the
B11 000 cable that goes to positive battery post on coach batteries?
2. NO. To positively remove all battery power, disconnect all battery cables at the batteries. Or, as you said, install a cutoff switch.
3. YES
4. YES
5. Turn OFF the inverter/charger. But, if you have disconnected the battery cables and cut the shore power, then the inverter is already dead.
This drawing should be easier to read and if you post the other drawing number
if I have it I will post it also.
To kill ALL power, based on no solar power.
Generator off,
Unplug from shore power.
Disconnect coach batteries
Disconnect chassis batteries.
Disconnecting would be problematic on my coach. The batteries are behind a bulkhead in the forward pass through bay behind a panel that has to be removed. So it seems to me I need two disconnects. One from the batteries to the distribution point. And one from the batteries to the Inverter. I'm starting to plan an update to the charging system from the alternator to the house batteries to include a new Charger/Inverter. I will plan on installing these two disconnects then where they are readily accessible in the bay. It seems to me the safest route if you wake up in the middle of the night choking on smoke is.
1. GET OUT of the coach!!!
2. Be able to quickly remove ALL electrical power from outside.
I'm surprised that a coach of this quality and price point didn't already have this.
There's always ONE more thing to do....... 🤷🏻♂️😂
Your diagram in the first post shows two POS (+) battery cables originating on the same coach battery post. One cable goes to common distribution point. The other cable goes to inverter power supply 350A fuse. To cut power to both circuits would only require one switch located near the coach battery.
Photo below shows the setup on our old coach. The red main battery disconnect switch is located in battery compartment behind driver side rear wheels. I can turn off battery power to all
house battery circuits
and the inverter from outside the coach. Good when time is a factor. We also have solar so the two smaller switches cut off the feed from the panels to the controllers.
Blue Sea Systems makes excellent battery switches in several configurations (manual and remote control). Check out what they offer:
Battery Switches - Blue Sea Systems (https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/2/Battery_Switches)
Wouldn't he need a cable going to the switch from the battery with equal capacity of the 2 cables going there now?
Good point. I didn't think about that. Thanks!
Yes - I guess so - or perhaps 2 short cables from battery to switch. But I think they make switches with 2-in and 1 or 2-out. 500 amp (continuous) rating should be sufficient.
HD-Series Heavy Duty Selector Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems (https://www.bluesea.com/products/3002/HD-Series__Heavy_Duty_Selector_Battery_Switch)
Yes. Like this one.
Deferent people have different preferences but I prefer to have the shortest-possible cables (positive and negative) and no switches between the starting-battery bank and the starter. I want the lowest-possible resistance to current flow when starting the engine.
It would be interesting to know what the resistance of a disconnect is. I will measure it when I receive one. My thought after reading about a member that had a high heat event from a shorted isolator that it would be nice to be able to remove all power to the isolator if needed. Quickly and safely. Just a thought.