I'm about to start working on a custom desk to go where our J-dinette once lived. I took a cabinet door down to the local hardwood shop in hopes of matching it. The walnut they have is black walnut and very black. I don't see how it'll match the more red color of my cabinets without stain.
I've found a couple posts from Michelle indicating they made it work with black walnut + sanding sealer but I'm skeptical of getting a close match with the stuff we have locally.
I believe the cabinets in the coach are NOT stained, correct? If so, is there a particular species of black walnut that FT used? Or a trick to getting getting the color right?
There must be a bunch of large panels out there, from fellow forum people replacing their propane refrigerators with residential ones.
You guys are keeping those nice wood door covers, right?
I'm not sure which door covers you're referring to but the answer is yes. I love the wood in the coach and thankfully so does my wife
Check with Foretravel factory and MOT. They do enough remodels that they may have what you need if not available where you are.
When I built a door front for where the trash compactor was we went and picked through several bundles before we found what we liked.
Not sure if u have that option.
Here's a picture
Elliot, when I had the one drawer cover made I friend of mine does wood work. He was able to order and finish real close to our coach. He said that the color will change with age due to the UV. Starts dark and goes to a softer color. Anyway these woods can be sourced and purchased at a real hardwood store, but the price wont be nice. Definitely not my skill set.
Scott
David Flanagan used a much light color walnut, didn't match AT All on two different remodels ( dining table and new kitchen cabinet.) The finish in Sanding Sealer only. No stain, oils or other top coats (poly, varnish, etc.) Match was awful. David Flanagan (FOT remodel) said no worries, will darken over time.
2-3 years after they did the work, all the wood in the coach matches perfectly
Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139
Elliott, the most common black walnut you find today will be darker and browner without the redish highlights you see in the interior of your coach. Whatever you choose you want to find boards that approximate the colors and grains in the existing wood. No matter what you put on the wood for a finish it will turn the wood darker. The process of finishing wood to match something else is an experimental one. Maybe some stain or a glaze, maybe a catalyzed oil finish, and then something to finish and protect the wood.
A sanding sealer is not a suitable finish for any wood project. It is not waterproof. It is not UV resistant. It will not resist alcohol. It is very soft and not at all durable. It is used to fill grain and provide for a more uniform stain application. If you depend on it for a finished product your money for materials and time to make it will lead to an unsatisfactory result.
Foretravel used (my best guess) a catalyzed lacquer, low luster, spray-on finish. It really is the only finish that would have stood up to time and fingers the way the interiors have. It is the finish of choice for most high-volume cabinet makers.
For a panel replacement, I found the Rockler 1/8" walnut plywood to be a pretty good match with a clear finish on top. I think I used Deft. I have not tried to source solid walnut for any face frames but I do have a local specialty lumber shop (Austin Hardwoods in Santa Ana) nearby where I would look.
Walnut Plywood 24'' x 48'' | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware (http://www.rockler.com/24-x-48-walnut-plywood)
They will ship if you don't have one nearby.
Roger,
I am aware of the limitations of sanding sealer.
Call David Flanagan and ask him what he uses.
Sanding Sealer. Period.
I wasn't advocating to use it, I was reporting how Flanagan achieves a match on his cabinet remodels.
My hearing is bad but I asked Flanagan 3 times because I share your reservation about sealer as a final coat.
As predicted, not doing so good holding up on dining table top, doing fine on cabinet front.
Hey, what do I know.
The horizontal surface around our 1989 "lift-up" table had the clear finish all crappy looking, discolored, missing (in chunks) and generally nasty.
So I took it off and sanded it as smooth as this wood butcher could get it.
Then I went to our local big box lumber store and bought a rattle can of that thick clear gloss glaze that is used on garden pots and is supposed to be UV Resistant.
WOW!!! Perfect match with the rest of the cabinet as far as the walnut color is concerned. Glossier? Of course.
Even a blind squirrel gets lucky once in awhile.
Sorry, just found the only pics I have of the "lift-up" table.
Not too good, but it is what I have.
Here is solid walnut that I used for my pantry and it matches fairly good. Now out of
you post I will see how to get it more shiny.
Elliott, an alternate way to make a work surface is to use a high pressure laminate surface on a Baltic birch plywood base with a walnut edge. You can get laminates from Formica or Wilson Art or others.
Laminate Surfaces for Kitchen Countertops and Bathroom Vanities | Wilsonart (https://www.wilsonart.com/laminate/design-library?gclid=CjwKCAiApfeQBhAUEiwA7K_UH7t9OrCbfz2-QwiC4bRX4QSbxGrLRsisem-g6pPNdeYwSktUc-HbxhoCdXkQAvD_BwE)
Choose a color and surface texture and level of sheen that works for you. Use two layers of 3/8" or 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood glued together with the same sides together on a flat surface with weights holding them together while it dries to get a very flat, stable surface. Baltic Birch plywood is commonly found in 60" square sheets, sometimes in 4'x8' sheets.
A laminate surface will be durable and easy to clean. If you have limited access to woodworking tools it might be an easier choice.
Elliot, I am quite pleased with the custom walnut desktop I bought from these folks: Custom Hardwood Desk Tops | Made in the USA | Shipped Nationwide (https://www.hardwooddesktops.com/)
The will make to size and have the option to make it finished or unfinished. Have a lot of options for edges, etc. Its not a perfect match, but darn close.
The experimenting begins...
The two on the left are stained (no pre-stain applied but probably needs it) and the two on the right are satin and semi gloss polyurethane. One coat of each.
The colors look quite a bit closer in person
Now the question arises..is the wood black walnut? Or what?
I know that when I put clear gloss on the black walnut on my "lift-up" table shelf that the wood grain came alive and was beautiful beyond my expectations.
Yes, black walnut. I managed to find a lighter board and the shop said they could request more light walnut from their supplier
Our walnut seems about as light as cherry. The PO said it was English walnut. No idea if that is correct.