Can anyone identify the tubing that runs next to the oil filter in the attached picture? In addition to the oil in the photo, oil is venting out the end of the tubing beside the oil pan. My first thought is it looks similar to the PCV system on other engines, but that is just a guess.
Are you talking about the two in the foreground or the ones background that have oil all over them.
If there is an open tube that is the crankcase vent. If you overfill the oil it will throw all of the excess oil out that pipe. Also if the rings are going south you will get excess blowby out that tube.
I meant the one covered in oil.
It look like the vent tube to me.
Commonly called a slobber tube.
Over the last 8 years, I have periodically had the tube slobber more and then less. At one time, I thought it was because of the dipstick mis-calibration (do a quick search on the forum). Started filling to mid-range on the dip stick but last oil change interval (about 4000 miles), I lost 3-4 qts. This current one, after 4000 miles and filling to the upper line I've only used about 1 qt so I'm confused. Will continue to monitor.
If it gets to be a problem, some of us have added a catch can or extended the tube lower in the engine compartment. Helps cut down on any oil dripping into the jet stream and ending up on the toad.
Rich
Normal crank case vent tube, I've never seen one without oil on it because that's what they do. If it ever puts oil spots on your tow zip tie A 16 oz pop bottle to it with a bit of foam stuffed in the bottom, if the hose fits tight in the opening drill or cut some holes in the top of the plastic bottle. May be tmi for you but may help someone.
That sounds like some good old fashioned red neck engineering, except you didn't mention using baling wire or duct tape. Those are usually my go to repair supplies.
Short cut for catch can and does the same. Country folks can make a way..
That sounds like a good topic for a thread. ""Country Folk Fixes"
Yup, but it WORKS. Just make sure the surface area of the holes for the exhaust are larger than the diameter of the OE hose. You can certainly catch oil vapor, but do NOT restrict air flow.
And, yes, overfilling the crankcase is the #1 cause of excessive oil from the crankcase vent.
Back when Detroit introduced the 2 cycles, the slobber tube(s) just dumped the airbox (below the blower) oil on the ground. It was one thing to do on the road but on a boat, it got the bilge dirty. Detroit solved this by installing a catch tank that can be emptied. They also made a drain system with check valves to allow the oil to dump back into the oil pan. Ours has the drain system, others have the catch tank.
The same thing can be done to a 4 cycle on the breather pipe/hose. Care has to be done in the design so it can't be blocked/restricted and build up pressure in the crankcase. Excess pressure will blow oil out the crankshaft seals. High mileage engines will have more blowby and will need to empty the tank more frequently.
Pierce
Any oil that makes it's way into the radiator fins will act like a dust magnet and plug it up fast.
I had that problem in my 1981 Foretravel with a 3208 cat.
Start by thoroughly cleaning the black grease and oil from the whole area and see where the oil comes from,use water soluble
degreaser and or a air powered syphon gun with mineral spirits,yours looks like its been seeping and leaking for years.
You have a C8.3. vent tube is on the other side of the engine. The hose with 2 clamps is the turbocharger oil return line.
Once upon a time, in a world now mostly gone by, almost all internal combustion engines had a crankcase vent tube and they were equipped with a check valve so air only went out. We also had a strip of oil and dirt running down the center lane of our roads and highways. When positive crankcase ventilation, with the slobber re-introduced for be burned, it was amazing how fast the black strip on the road disappeared. I'm not sure about the Cummins, but my other four vehicles have crankcase breather tubes.
I had 2 on my old 6v92.. was a major mess. Of course, there was never any rust.
Think you should get your serial number and check the Cummins web site and register your engine so you can look at a diagram
of the engine and identyfy the parts,its hard for us to tell you what it exactly is when we don"t know what engine it is,some in that
time frame and a 270 had a 400 hp engine.