So I have a post already about my generator and having the overspeed light come on. I had the generator pulled out to fix a diesel leak and when they reinstalled it something different is happening now. Before it would run for 30 seconds throw the overspeed code and shut off and I'm pretty sure I know why it was doing it at that time. But after they reinstalled it now it runs just fine, providing the proper voltage to the coach but now the remote start on the dash does not work. I also ran it for about 10 minutes when I picked it up and the radiator fan never kicked on. Maybe it didn't get warm enough to kick the fan on? Or does that run constantly? I didn't want to run it for too much longer in case it overheated and I didn't want to blow it up. The shop was very adamant that he connected the wires back up exactly how they came off, he even showed me a picture of the wires that he took before removal. He did mention a small connector that he reinstalled also and told me maybe that's the issue as far as the remote switch not working, but who knows. It's a mystery to me why the overcrank code has gone away but I'm glad it did because I thought it was the control box and those are pricey.
Thanks for throwing some brain cells my way today everybody's been very helpful.
There is a switch for my generator fan on mine and it has to be on. You have a newer
coach so your generator could be different.
On our coaches like all things man made. Connections, corrosion and weak contact has to be expected. Photos are great. The shop may have done exact reconnect. Yet some little gremlins pop up.
As owner I would recommend looking, touching every wire end and its various contacts. We may have high grade wire at birth. Years of elements can and do allow corrosion to occur many times under the wire covering. The wires can break inside the actual terminal. Splices, butt connections can be weak. Electrical tape can allow contact.
Check check inspect. Use Electrical lube. In my limited exposure to the metal box. Often connections are loose. The capacitor on the 320 fans can be on the back. Move it for access. Obtain a spare. Bet you find some thing. Check your motor mounts. Just use a lever to try to raise the corners of the generator. The mounts do break inside the mount. There is a good place to get 4 new mounts for about $50. Total.
Example of mount with center broken.
I checked the PowerTech site for the engine mounts and was astounded at what they charge for the mounts. The manufacturer is short staffed so not selling online but here is a site where you get all four mounts for $50 ($12.51/ea) with free shipping. The mounts come in two types and 4 weight categories. They have a small color code dot on the top so you can tell which weight category they are.
Glad to photo one so the color code can be seen.
Plate-Type Vibration Mounts, Shape: Square , Axial Load Capacity: 120 (Pounds) (https://www.govets.com/tech-products-310-06870414.html)
Pierce
This switch is actually a circuit breaker. If the circuit breaker function trips, the switch lever may be only slightly away from the "on" position. Like household circuit breakers, you may need to move the lever to the off position and then to the on position.
On my coach, after many hours of vibration this circuit breaker had become weak and would trip for no real reason.
Richard
If the generator is running the remote fan should be running.
There is no thermo switch that has to be activated on the remote fan.
It could be a loose wire in control box or where fan wiring connects to the wires from the generator control box, bad fan breaker, failed fan capacitor, failed motor.
IIRC on your model coach the start switches have to be "In Time" with each other to properly work.
Does your coach have a remote start over the bed? If so it has to play nicely with the others.
A couple of pics. of which generator you have will sure help out in troubleshooting.
Mike